- Thread starter
- #301
not sure, but dude, it's $2 for a brand new heavy duty one from Marlin, why bother? Lol
The Machinist's "Project" Thread: 86' FJ60 [Lots Of Pics]
- Thread starter The Machinist
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not sure, but dude, it's $2 for a brand new heavy duty one from Marlin, why bother? Lol
ah i was thinking $$$ since its a cruiser. time to go peruse marlins site! but OTOH i could probably save a buck getting one from Pick and pull
. im headed there this weekend anyway i think. you need any parts for your cruiser? there are a bunch of 4 runners here that im gonna pick through
- Thread starter
- #303
ah i was thinking $$$ since its a cruiser. time to go peruse marlins site! but OTOH i could probably save a buck getting one from Pick and pull
My bad, it was actually $4 per spring, and it says you need 2 for a transfer case. Here's the link.
I can't think of anything i really need for the cruiser, but if you come across one of those dash mounted tilt meter's that were in some of the old 4Runners, I'd gladly pay you for it.
ah an inclinometer, ill look around for one or two ill bet it would be like 2 bucks. do you still need tow hooks? im going to be pulling a few off of some 4runners or toyo trucks.
- Thread starter
- #305
Yeah I still need one for the front bumper, although what you find might not fit. The front hook is different from the back one, because it has to go under a part of the chrome bumper. (I could probably make something work though)
i can mount any of them since i dont have a front bumper on right now and it has homebrew cut outs. if i find some that fit mine you can have my OEM ones that should fit. so since there are 2 slots in the front bumper do you need 2? i forgot if OEM has something other than a hook on one side
- Thread starter
- #307
Sounds good. There's only one hole in the bumper though. I has 1 hook that kind of weaves its way under the bumper.
- Thread starter
- #309
Pinion Seal Replaced
So this weekend I got a chance to get under the truck again and replace the pinion seal that started leaking last week. It was nice to finally get back to working on the LandCruiser, and I think I'm going to try to work on it more often now, I'd like to try to get as many of the little problems and quirks worked out before spring/summer time comes around, so I can just go out and enjoy driving it!
Changing the seal was pretty uneventful, and other than having a little trouble getting the seal seated at first, there were no real problems.
The first step was to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the joint flange. From there, just swing the driveshaft off to the side and out of the way.
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
After that was done, I scribed a line across the lock nut and flange and used a sharpie to fill it in. This was to know where to tighten the nut down to when I was done.
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once the lock nut is removed, the joint flange, (or whatever its called), pulls straight out, revealing the pinion seal. I used a large screwdriver to pry the old seal out. This truck's pinion seal had been replaced at some point, probably not a whole long time ago. The seal that was in there was a pretty pathetic looking piece compared to the seal I got from Marlin Crawler. When removing the joint flange, and then the seal, it is a good idea to have a catch pan under the differential to catch any gear oil that might come out. (and don't park facing downhill
)
This is what was behind my seal. It didn't look original to the truck, and was powdercoated grey ??...
DSC02645 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC02643 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Anyway, after that was off, I crawled out from under the truck and got a better look at the surface the seal rides on. There was a small groove that was not deep enough for me to consider an issue. (the pic almost makes it look worse than it did in person)
_DLV3754 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once I confirmed that that was in good condition, I got the seal all greased up, and cleaned up the bore it presses into on the differential. The next step was to get the seal pressed into place. This is the only thing that I had any issues with. Getting it to grab ahold, and stay seated as you get the opposite sides of the seal pounded in is a little tricky, but once you get it started, its just a matter of tapping it in little by little in the same fashion you tighten lug nuts. (opposing sides of the seal with each hit, or ~120* apart with three points per go, and altering the starting point by ~60* every forth hit) <<if that makes any sense<<
DSC02647 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Pressing the seal in:
DSC02649 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Seal fully seated:
DSC02658 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC02664 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
After that was done, I made sure that no dirt had gotten onto the seal, added a touch more grease to the seal, and the sealing surface on the joint flange, then lined up the splines and the mark I had made and pushed the part through the seal. Next came replacing the lock nut after cleaning any dirt and oil off of it. I used the line I marked on it again to ensure I put roughly the same amount of torque on it. Once it was in I used a large screwdriver to put a dent in it where the key is cut into the shaft to ensure it wouldn't back off in the future.
I reused the nut because I didn't have a replacement this weekend, but if anyone else needs to replace their pinion seal, I would recommend getting a new one.
DSC02665 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once that is done all that's left to do is line up the driveshaft again and replace the 4 bolts that hold it to the joint flange. Make sure to get them nice and tight, wouldn't want those suckers coming lose on ya'!
DSC02668 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
I finished the seal yesterday, and drained and replaced the gear oil this afternoon because I've been meaning to do it anyway. Make sure that you at least top off your gear oil though, if you had a leak, then you are going to have less oil than you should.
Here is a comparison of the "National" seal that I pulled out, and the Marlin seal that I put back in:
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
The benefits of being a relativity small guy and working on a lifted truck
DSC02654 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
So this weekend I got a chance to get under the truck again and replace the pinion seal that started leaking last week. It was nice to finally get back to working on the LandCruiser, and I think I'm going to try to work on it more often now, I'd like to try to get as many of the little problems and quirks worked out before spring/summer time comes around, so I can just go out and enjoy driving it!
Changing the seal was pretty uneventful, and other than having a little trouble getting the seal seated at first, there were no real problems.
The first step was to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the joint flange. From there, just swing the driveshaft off to the side and out of the way.
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
After that was done, I scribed a line across the lock nut and flange and used a sharpie to fill it in. This was to know where to tighten the nut down to when I was done.
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once the lock nut is removed, the joint flange, (or whatever its called), pulls straight out, revealing the pinion seal. I used a large screwdriver to pry the old seal out. This truck's pinion seal had been replaced at some point, probably not a whole long time ago. The seal that was in there was a pretty pathetic looking piece compared to the seal I got from Marlin Crawler. When removing the joint flange, and then the seal, it is a good idea to have a catch pan under the differential to catch any gear oil that might come out. (and don't park facing downhill
)This is what was behind my seal. It didn't look original to the truck, and was powdercoated grey ??...
DSC02645 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC02643 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Anyway, after that was off, I crawled out from under the truck and got a better look at the surface the seal rides on. There was a small groove that was not deep enough for me to consider an issue. (the pic almost makes it look worse than it did in person)
_DLV3754 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once I confirmed that that was in good condition, I got the seal all greased up, and cleaned up the bore it presses into on the differential. The next step was to get the seal pressed into place. This is the only thing that I had any issues with. Getting it to grab ahold, and stay seated as you get the opposite sides of the seal pounded in is a little tricky, but once you get it started, its just a matter of tapping it in little by little in the same fashion you tighten lug nuts. (opposing sides of the seal with each hit, or ~120* apart with three points per go, and altering the starting point by ~60* every forth hit) <<if that makes any sense<<
DSC02647 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Pressing the seal in:
DSC02649 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Seal fully seated:
DSC02658 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC02664 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
After that was done, I made sure that no dirt had gotten onto the seal, added a touch more grease to the seal, and the sealing surface on the joint flange, then lined up the splines and the mark I had made and pushed the part through the seal. Next came replacing the lock nut after cleaning any dirt and oil off of it. I used the line I marked on it again to ensure I put roughly the same amount of torque on it. Once it was in I used a large screwdriver to put a dent in it where the key is cut into the shaft to ensure it wouldn't back off in the future.
I reused the nut because I didn't have a replacement this weekend, but if anyone else needs to replace their pinion seal, I would recommend getting a new one.
DSC02665 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Once that is done all that's left to do is line up the driveshaft again and replace the 4 bolts that hold it to the joint flange. Make sure to get them nice and tight, wouldn't want those suckers coming lose on ya'!
DSC02668 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
I finished the seal yesterday, and drained and replaced the gear oil this afternoon because I've been meaning to do it anyway. Make sure that you at least top off your gear oil though, if you had a leak, then you are going to have less oil than you should.
Here is a comparison of the "National" seal that I pulled out, and the Marlin seal that I put back in:
Untitled by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
The benefits of being a relativity small guy and working on a lifted truck
DSC02654 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Good job dude. I was wondering how you got under there like that. s*** even in a lifted truck I would be scrunched like a hunch back.
- Thread starter
- #311
The driveshaft being out of the made it eaiser. 
Last edited:
Very nice job young stud,you didn't mention if you add some loctite on the nut just for insurance and make sure you stake it well.how far did you go past your scribe?you just need a small amount of preload since you are not replacing the crush sleeve.
- Thread starter
- #313
I should have got some locktight, I knew I forgot something..... I only put it a hair past the scribed line when I replaced it.
- Thread starter
- #314
So it turns out the grinding noise I'd been hearing when in 4lo and sometimes 4hi was was my engine fan hitting its shroud. So motor mounts is what I've concluded is the issue. (would also explain the transfer case popping out of gear) I'll try to get to a dealership sometime this week.
When I replace the mounts, where should I support the engine from?
When I replace the mounts, where should I support the engine from?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Why just use a cherry picker and pull the engine up by the hooks?
Cherry picker on the engine will work good. Been there done that.
It's probably only the driver side mount too BTW
It's probably only the driver side mount too BTW
nice pics on pinion. prob should have read that first instead of calling you up lol. georg gave me some advice, a 54mm socket for the nuts on the front axle is the same size and works well for a ton of seals. especially front main seals at least on a chevy 350 lol
- Thread starter
- #318
The Toyota dealership wants over $500 for a set of 2 engine mounts and a transmission mount...
I don't have that kind of money to spend on engine mounts. Is there a vendor here on Mud that would have them cheaper, or a website I should look at? CruiserCorps doesn't have any 60 mounts listed.
I don't have that kind of money to spend on engine mounts. Is there a vendor here on Mud that would have them cheaper, or a website I should look at? CruiserCorps doesn't have any 60 mounts listed.
So you are saying that for three parts they want over $500.00? Was that a typo?
Zack
