I hate you man! Excellent score, and I'm keeping tabs on this one.
The Iron Mule: 12HT -> FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ducks
- Start date
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Nice score there mate !
If you have no joy with Toyota, you can get a PDF copy of the manual online - but you need a client to download: Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals - Page: 1
If you have no joy with Toyota, you can get a PDF copy of the manual online - but you need a client to download: Toyota Workshop & Repair Manuals - Page: 1
Congratulations! You've been waiting to do the swap for a while.
as far as the cluster goes is it a 62 cluster?
- Thread starter
- #25
I think the instrument cluster is from an hj61 (?). It has the red and green turbo light. I'll get a picture of it. I also think the split t-case is manual. Did all HJ61s have the vacuum shift or were some of them manual?
are you converting to 24v?
i just did a 24volt conversion in my truck, let me know if i can help
you know if you if your 12v ignition switch will work on the 24v system? i switch ignition dues to swapping the 24v harness
theres are also relays that a 60 wont have...
did the package come with harness?
from the pic of the cluster in the box it looks like a 61-62 cluster
it wont fit in the 60 dash but what you can do is switch the gauges themselves and the will bolt to your 60 cluster
have you seen the transmission? pic, very easy to tell visually for tcase.
the hard lines for the vacuum can be replaced with soft lines
id stick with your shift tcase, espicially for the gears. tcase is easy to do espcially when its off the truck..
nice motor, you can still see the factory blue
good luck the project, hope it doesnt cost too much
i just did a 24volt conversion in my truck, let me know if i can help
you know if you if your 12v ignition switch will work on the 24v system? i switch ignition dues to swapping the 24v harness
theres are also relays that a 60 wont have...
did the package come with harness?
from the pic of the cluster in the box it looks like a 61-62 cluster
it wont fit in the 60 dash but what you can do is switch the gauges themselves and the will bolt to your 60 cluster
have you seen the transmission? pic, very easy to tell visually for tcase.
the hard lines for the vacuum can be replaced with soft lines
id stick with your shift tcase, espicially for the gears. tcase is easy to do espcially when its off the truck..
nice motor, you can still see the factory blue
good luck the project, hope it doesnt cost too much
from the research that i did and i could be wrong they were vacumm. if you cluster is round you will need the 62 dash pad. or you can swap out the gauges into your existing cluster.
- Thread starter
- #28
are you converting to 24v?
i just did a 24volt conversion in my truck, let me know if i can help
you know if you if your 12v ignition switch will work on the 24v system? i switch ignition dues to swapping the 24v harness
theres are also relays that a 60 wont have...
did the package come with harness?
from the pic of the cluster in the box it looks like a 61-62 cluster
it wont fit in the 60 dash but what you can do is switch the gauges themselves and the will bolt to your 60 cluster
have you seen the transmission? pic, very easy to tell visually for tcase.
the hard lines for the vacuum can be replaced with soft lines
id stick with your shift tcase, espicially for the gears. tcase is easy to do espcially when its off the truck..
nice motor, you can still see the factory blue
good luck the project, hope it doesnt cost too much
Thanks. The engine is 24v and my fj60 is 12v so I'm trying to figure out how to integrate the two or if I should try and convert the engine to 12v. I think I want to keep the 24v system. The package didn't come with a harness so I'll have to come up with the relays that I need to make it work. What are the relays that I need to make? I think I read there is one for the starter. What other relays are there?
i dont know the exact name of the relays but some include glow plug relay, pre-timer relay? starter, ignition... all the switches on the dash, all lightbulbs, headlights. radio. anything you dont convert to 24v will not work
not having the harness might be an issue, there are ways to convert the truck to 12v, but i have no clue; when i did mine i had a donor truck so i swapped the harness.
not having any of the relays is gonna cost you
you can convert motor to 12v by switching the starter, alternator and a/c to 12v but this route is even more expensive
many people here on mud will say to convert to 12v and its easy, but i wonder if they did it themselves, all i know if that it was gonna be expensive. say in my case i didnt wire a 24v while my conversion, i didnt have to spend any money on converters but i can listen to music, but in the case of my headlights i spent countless hours tapping the harness and in the end it still didnt work. i didnt want to spend any money on it so i rigged the headlight straight to the batteries, and now im paying for it by blowing 5 headlights so far.
what im trying to say it that youll want to get -everything- done in one shot, cuz you are not gonna want to be tearing it all apart when youre done, espcially with the wirring
im sure youd preffer as little downtime as possible.
unless this is a side project.
do you plan on doing the work yourself?
do you have a source(&$) for 24v stuff
or a money tree to fund a 12v conversion
also to mention how long was the production year for the 12ht (5?) sourcing parts might take a while
i wish you the best of luck, youll have an awesome truck when youre done, espcially with the lockers
if you happen to need to get rid of those for cheap id take em
or even to motor.......
not having the harness might be an issue, there are ways to convert the truck to 12v, but i have no clue; when i did mine i had a donor truck so i swapped the harness.
not having any of the relays is gonna cost you
you can convert motor to 12v by switching the starter, alternator and a/c to 12v but this route is even more expensive
many people here on mud will say to convert to 12v and its easy, but i wonder if they did it themselves, all i know if that it was gonna be expensive. say in my case i didnt wire a 24v while my conversion, i didnt have to spend any money on converters but i can listen to music, but in the case of my headlights i spent countless hours tapping the harness and in the end it still didnt work. i didnt want to spend any money on it so i rigged the headlight straight to the batteries, and now im paying for it by blowing 5 headlights so far.
what im trying to say it that youll want to get -everything- done in one shot, cuz you are not gonna want to be tearing it all apart when youre done, espcially with the wirring
im sure youd preffer as little downtime as possible.
unless this is a side project.
do you plan on doing the work yourself?
do you have a source(&$) for 24v stuff
or a money tree to fund a 12v conversion
also to mention how long was the production year for the 12ht (5?) sourcing parts might take a while
i wish you the best of luck, youll have an awesome truck when youre done, espcially with the lockers
if you happen to need to get rid of those for cheap id take em
or even to motor.......
- Thread starter
- #30
Well, I thought that if I kept the engine 24v (starter, alternator, AC, glow screen), I would power my 12v stuff off of a converter or I would add a 12v alternator that powers a third battery. Right now I'm leaning toward trying to add a 12v alternator like in this thread, that way I could power my 12v Warn 8274 winch off the battery. (I decided to not get the PTO winch.) Of course, I could convert my 8274 to 24 volt but that just adds another complication and expense.
- Thread starter
- #32
Wow, I didn't realize it was that inexpensive. Thanks. I'm still a little concerned about relying on a converter to power my headlights. Are 24v headlights easy to find?
at this point i dont think the winch is gonna your problem. to be honest with you, i still havent rigged my headlights up. its all wired but somwthings wrong at the switch, maybe relay? i dunno, i have 3 spares in the truck, but you know what i did wire my winch
the 2h harness has this factory converter that powers the 12v headlights. but all the other lights in the truck are 24v.
im guessing the 12ht might of had the same.
i should look for 24v headlights myself and make a stand alone harness.
qhwn are you gonna start??
the 2h harness has this factory converter that powers the 12v headlights. but all the other lights in the truck are 24v.
im guessing the 12ht might of had the same.
i should look for 24v headlights myself and make a stand alone harness.
qhwn are you gonna start??
KISS principle man. Convert the engine to the truck. Might cost more up front by way simpler long term.
Take a look at Stones install thread of a 12HT into an FJ80.
gb
Do a search on "evil center tap" to read up on the Canadian 24V spec 12V headlights. Toyota did not use a converter for the headlights. They used a 12V dimmer switch that in effect created a 12V and 24V headlight. The 24V headlight used a 12V neutral, supplied through the dimmer relay; thus in effect leaving 12V's for the filament. Balanced load on the batteries, and all was well. Elegant and Evil.
The HJ61's (jdm spec) were all 24V.
gb
iron_giant
SILVER Star
Chad,
I'm with Greg on this. We previously discussed what I thought was the best option and that to me is to keep the truck 12v. In theory the advantages of a 24volt start may sound appealing, but in practice, especially with a direct injected engine in these climates it's totally not necessary. When you run dual voltages you have to consider the dual grounds. Also your truck will be completely dependent upon a converter which in my eyes will be the Achilles heel of a rig based on reliability. Simplicity is the foundation for survival, and I know you want this to be an "expedition" truck.
I'm with Greg on this. We previously discussed what I thought was the best option and that to me is to keep the truck 12v. In theory the advantages of a 24volt start may sound appealing, but in practice, especially with a direct injected engine in these climates it's totally not necessary. When you run dual voltages you have to consider the dual grounds. Also your truck will be completely dependent upon a converter which in my eyes will be the Achilles heel of a rig based on reliability. Simplicity is the foundation for survival, and I know you want this to be an "expedition" truck.
- Thread starter
- #37
O.K. David and Greg have convinced me. KISS is always a good principle. I'll convert the engine to 12v. So, where are the best places to get 12v accessories? I need an alternator, starter, AC compressor, and glow screen, right? Am I forgetting anything? Any idea on how much is a good price for these things? I'll hopefully recoup some of the expense by selling my 24v accessories.
I wouldnt trade 24v system for anything, but in other hand... maybe its becouse everything already is 24v
i think that on the compressor you can swap out your gas fan clutch
- Thread starter
- #40
I talked with Dave at Japan4x4 and for the AC compressor I just need to swap out the stator, which is $65.
