would you order the part from him?
The Iron Mule: 12HT -> FJ60
- Thread starter Ducks
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- #42
Yeah I ordered the part from him. It was either 6,615 yen ($67) through him or $155 through my local dealer. (The 12HT and 3FE use the same stator.) Don't know what the shipping will be but I think it will be less than $100. I think I'll order the alternator through the dealer. It is a 12v 80amp alternator. There is apparently a small body alternator that works with the AC bracket and a large body alternator that doesn't. (This info is from Stone's thread.) But the EPC and ToyoDIY.com only list one part number for the 12v alternator so not sure if the alternator from the dealer will fit but from the diagram on the EPC & ToyoDIY it looks like it should.
I haven't been able to find a valid part # for the 12v starter. I can buy a new 12v starter from 4 wheel auto or from RooDogs but it is expensive. I could also buy a 3B starter and use the motor out of that to replace the 24v motor in my current starter.
I also need a vacuum reservoir. Lynchmob might have all the stuff that I need, but I haven't heard back from him yet. The pressure is on to get all the parts that I need so I can get started with the swap by June 22nd.
If anyone has a valid part # for a 12v starter, let me know. I've tried the EPC & ToyoDIY numbers and I've also called Toyota Industrial (the forklifts) but haven't been able to come up with a valid number. My local dealer isn't very helpful with finding non-USA part numbers.
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- Aug 22, 2006
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12v starter for a 12ht shows part # 28100-47071.
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- #44
Just FYI about starters -
I had wanted to keep the 24v for the starter because it is supposed to be awesome. From the EPC the starters compare as follows -
24v diesel starter - 4.5KW
12v diesel starter - 2.5KW
12v gas starter - 1KW
So the 12v diesel starter isn't too shabby either. Would have loved to keep the 24v but I want reliability over everything else so a simplified system is what I want that doesn't rely on converters or second alternators with third batteries and a common ground between 12v & 24v appliances. I hear a lot of people do it but since my fj60 is 12v it is probably best to keep everything 12v.
I had wanted to keep the 24v for the starter because it is supposed to be awesome. From the EPC the starters compare as follows -
24v diesel starter - 4.5KW
12v diesel starter - 2.5KW
12v gas starter - 1KW
So the 12v diesel starter isn't too shabby either. Would have loved to keep the 24v but I want reliability over everything else so a simplified system is what I want that doesn't rely on converters or second alternators with third batteries and a common ground between 12v & 24v appliances. I hear a lot of people do it but since my fj60 is 12v it is probably best to keep everything 12v.
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks. I'll give that a try. The number I had was 28100-47081. Where did you get the number from?
IMO 24v system is more reliable than 12v, why not just get a 24v harness off hj60/61 and use it replace the 12v wiring? that way you would get the awesome 4,5kw starter
(you can do mini burnouts with that 24v starter, its scary strong...)
you could run two batteries just for the starter if you really want it and just buy the alternator. i got mine from 4wheel auto as well and yest it was super expeniisve
the 12volt starter is really nice i run the inerstate group 27 battery and it fires before you turn the key all the way.
the 12volt starter is really nice i run the inerstate group 27 battery and it fires before you turn the key all the way.
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- #48
Right now I am pulling the 2F along with the h42 and split case all connected together.
How do I remove the stick shifts from the transmission and transfer case?
How do I remove the stick shifts from the transmission and transfer case?
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- #49
Started pulling the 2F
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- #50
Got a shiny new alternator for a good price but it didn't come fully assembled. Since my dad is the one with the electrical engineering degree, I let him put it together.
Remove the boot from the tranny shifter, both outer and inner parts. Then remove the boots covering the shifter, both outer and inner. Then, press down on the ring to compress it and at the same time, rotate it counter-clockwise to release it, then the shifter pops right out.
For the transfer case, remove the linkage connecting the high / low selector arm at the arm. It's a small tre type joint. Then remove the bracket that wraps around the t-case shifter and bolts onto the top cover. Finally, remove the shifters by pulling them away from the transmission.
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- #52
Finally got the 2F/h42/split-case removed. Amazing all the little things that you have to remember to disconnect. Here are a few crappy cell phone pics. Lagwagon is rebuilding a 38mm split-case to put on my 12H-T/h55. I'll hopefully get the h55/split-case back from him today.
My fan on the 12H-T also has a broken vane on it. The part number I have isn't valid for my local Toyota dealership. Anyone have a 2H/12H-T fan they want to sell me? Or a better part number?
My fan on the 12H-T also has a broken vane on it. The part number I have isn't valid for my local Toyota dealership. Anyone have a 2H/12H-T fan they want to sell me? Or a better part number?
Ducks, that's awesome! You're going to love the 12H-T in there...the 5 speed is going to make a great combo!
Ducks, that's awesome! You're going to love the 12H-T in there...the 5 speed is going to make a great combo!
Just remember not to tow on fifth gear unless you want five speed gearbox with 4 gears
I replace my 2H fan ( thought it's complete compatible with the 12H-T fan ) with a 1HZ fan .. little bigger on the blades .. ( reason to swap mine )
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- #56
Did you have to get a new fan shroud or did the 1HZ fan fit within the 2H fan shroud?
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- #57
I'm replacing the clutch and apparently Toyota has discontinued the 2H clutch disc. Anyone know if a 2F clutch disc will work? That is what I ordered so I hope it works.
I do modify my factory one .. at least the top part .. nothing extreme.
progress report?
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- #60
I spent most of July doing fieldwork up in Northeast British Columbia so haven't had much time to work on the cruiser. I've also been waiting for lagwagon to rebuild my t-case. That situation has now rectified itself and most of the parts that I have been waiting for in order to continue are now in. David (iron_giant) is going to take over most of what is left of the swap. I'm moving back to Oregon Aug. 21st but the 60 is going to remain in Davis until the swap is completed.