Think that should be where the oil pressure sender screws in to the engine unless it mounts to the oil cooler if your engine has one.
HTH
Will
HTH
Will
The Idiot's (and diesel Boy's) Guide to Getting a 2F running
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Thats where it mounts on my 75ish 2F without oil cooler.
mine has the factory electric sender but you could put an aftermarket gauge in if you want. Or add a tee fitting and have both factory and aftermarket mechanical gauge- I did that with my V8 conversion.
thanks, i will take any and all infoif its not used today, it will be some time in the future
Heres the diz with the igniter in it
View attachment 1177226
First off, my experience is with old school points systems, not the new electronic systems, so take that into consideration.
To start a static time you need to get #1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) for the compression stroke. There are different ways to do this, compression tester, finger in the spark plug hole, etc. The thing to remember is that both valve rocker arms will be just barely loose, both valves fully closed, when at TDC of the compression stroke. Also, the timing port at the bellhousing/flywheel will look like what you see in the pic in post 1 of this thread. timing mark moving around at idle This pic also shows the BB, which has been painted white. There is also a line scribed into the flywheel. The line is TDC, and the BB is 7* BTDC (before top dead center).
There are several ways to get the motor to TDC of compression stroke for #1 cylinder. My preference is to pull the plugs and put into gear (key off and best with a flat driveway), and then rock the vehicle back and forth to get the motor to move the way it is needed to move. Once the motor is at TDC for #1, make sure the distributor rotor is pointing towards #1 plug wire, and the line on the flywheel is pointing towards the mark in the bellhousing window. A good double check would be to remove the valve cover and make sure that both rocker arms for #1 are slightly loose. It is possible to be 180* out and at TDC for exhaust stroke, but only one rocker arm will be loose. Once the motor is set to TDC for compression stroke you need to rotate the motor slightly, until the pointer in the bellhousing opening is pointing to the BB (7 degrees before top dead center). You are now at the point where you can set the static timing.
The next step requires some kind of 12 volt light. I like to use a 12V test probe, which will look a lot like a screwdriver with a wire coming out of the handle. The wire will have some kind of a clip on it, and the tip of the "screwdriver" will have a pointed end instead of a screwdriver tip, and there will be a light bulb in the handle.
Next, with the distributor cap off, clip the probe light wire onto the wire/machine bolt that carries the power through the dizzy body, and to the points. Make sure there is nothing grounding out where this bolt goes through the dizzy body, as being grounded at this point completely stops the ability to do the static timing.
The next step is to loosen the bolt that clamps the dizzy down to the block. You don't want the bolt real loose, just loose enough that you can smoothly turn the dizzy body. Now, place the tip of the probe on a good ground. With the points closed the probe light will be lit up. Turn the dizzy body just until the probe light goes out (points just opened). Tighten the dizzy bolt, being careful not to move the dizzy while tightening the bolt. At this point the motor will be timed at 7* BTDC.
I've tried to be real thorough with this description, but it has been several years since I've done this procedure, and I could have easily forgotten something, or made a mistake. If so, I'm counting on someone else to correct me.
I wish you the best with your build, and keep the pictures coming.
Don
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
- Thread starter
- #48
Thanks every one for trying to help on this. we finally have success!!!
The gentleman whose arm you see bu the carb is a good friend of mine, Mickey. best mechanic in all Africa i promise you. he came over for a braai (BBQ) here yesterday afternoon, and came and lent a quick hand with getting the 2F going. listened for 10 seconds whilst cranking. hand adjusted diz timing. crank. fire and run for about 5 seconds. he then looked at the carb, and basically came to the conclusion that there wasnt enough fuel getting through.
so he did the trick with pouring a little fuel in the airhorn. she fired right up and ran beautifully!!
so now the issue i have is not enough fuel coming through the carb. i know the bowl is full. and i did take the carb out and clean it all up already. any one have any ideas?
one thing that mickey said to me was that when he choked her by hand, he expects his hand to be wet with fuel, but it wasnt. his hand was dry. this any indication of anything?
The gentleman whose arm you see bu the carb is a good friend of mine, Mickey. best mechanic in all Africa i promise you. he came over for a braai (BBQ) here yesterday afternoon, and came and lent a quick hand with getting the 2F going. listened for 10 seconds whilst cranking. hand adjusted diz timing. crank. fire and run for about 5 seconds. he then looked at the carb, and basically came to the conclusion that there wasnt enough fuel getting through.
so he did the trick with pouring a little fuel in the airhorn. she fired right up and ran beautifully!!
so now the issue i have is not enough fuel coming through the carb. i know the bowl is full. and i did take the carb out and clean it all up already. any one have any ideas?
one thing that mickey said to me was that when he choked her by hand, he expects his hand to be wet with fuel, but it wasnt. his hand was dry. this any indication of anything?
Make certain the idle solenoid is working to open the idle circuit - from the sounds of it , it is non functional .
Sarge
Sarge
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
- Thread starter
- #50
Ja, checked this. Actually had to run a new wire for this as the stock wire in my loom only supplied 12v during cranking of starter...
Anyways, got her to run nicely now. I by chance found the plastic spacer that goes behind the fuel pump. The baker light one I had in there was 1.5mm thicker so pump must have not had enough pressure
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
- Thread starter
- #51
Hi all, back again...
So the 2F doesn't want to idle with out the choke on.
Fires right up no probelm with the choke on, and idles well but very high with the choke all the way out. I can push the choke in a tiny bit and she still idles well, but the second I try to push the choke in any further she dies.
Revs fine tho with choke in or out, just no idle.
Any ideas?
Also, when I put the carb back on, the spacer where I assume the egr would go on a us spec cruiser doesn't have a hole in line with the vacuum port that runs vertically between the 2 barrels of the carb. Should it have a hole there?
So the 2F doesn't want to idle with out the choke on.
Fires right up no probelm with the choke on, and idles well but very high with the choke all the way out. I can push the choke in a tiny bit and she still idles well, but the second I try to push the choke in any further she dies.
Revs fine tho with choke in or out, just no idle.
Any ideas?
Also, when I put the carb back on, the spacer where I assume the egr would go on a us spec cruiser doesn't have a hole in line with the vacuum port that runs vertically between the 2 barrels of the carb. Should it have a hole there?
