Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (9 Viewers)

[grinchy]

The other news on the weekend was the crappy switch on my slime dual compressor broke. I tried a multimeter alligator clip to Hotwire it, and got magic smoke.

Assumed it was dead, saw an arb twin in the Amazon warehouse, and took the buy once cry once challenge.

Was able to stick a real switch in the little compressor, and it woke back up. Guess it was just a wire gauge issue on the test wire. A bit torn now, don’t really need the arb, but it was a good price. . . I also hand pumped an lt 32” tire to 40 psi. This I will not ever want to do again.

 

[grinchy]

Changed the rear diff fluid today. It must have been done recently, was still clear and very little sludge, maybe at the 190k mark, when they did a 30k service. Hard to say.
I put in 4.5 qt, at which point it started to weep. Job done I thought.

Poring the used oil into the quarts, I filled 3 qt. I wonder how much the low oil level hurt the diff?

Thanks again for the vid link @Chocolate .

Just a reminder folks, if you bought your rig used, do all the fluids!

I was thinking of sending the arb twin back, think I’ll keep it now in case I have to get New gears.

Moving service of the other two up the priority chain.

 

[grinchy]

Double post

 

[grinchy]

Sad day. The Warehouse Deals ARB twin had obviously been dropped. Bent bracket, broken fan, etc. No main harness connector. Might have been rebuildable, but it was only $100 less and there's no time value in that. Back it goes.

In what world is it ok to break something and return it?

 

[grinchy]

Tried the Front Differential at lunch. The filler loosened no problem. The drain was already stripped, it was obvious before I got the hex in it, and my 10mm hex got no purchase almost immediately. I can't understand how the previous mechanic ever envisioned reusing the plug.

So far I've tried a T55 (spins), my biggest EZout (too small), two different vise grips (not enough purchase), and a hammer/chisel (shearing off bits of the flange at the moment, one could say I'm not fully committed to that yet).

I'm down to buying an bigger EZout, finding a left hand tap and bolt (1/2" maybe), or some other solution.

Suggestions?

The gear oil, like that in the rear diff, looks new. I topped it off (took 2 oz), and closed it back up.

 

[grinchy]

1/2"-20 LH bottom tap and 1/2"-20 LH bolt (surprisingly hard to source) incoming.

 

[grinchy]

Here is the RLC rear bumper prior to adding the swingarm. It’s been immensely fiddly part because I’m fitting an lx, part because I make a lot of rookie mistakes. Still happy with it.

 

[grinchy]

Pics from the tailgate wire support shortening to clear new bumper.

 

[RunTheDistance]

I'm hoping to pick up an LX570 soon. I plan to do most of my own work and am coming from a trail ready Jeep XJ. It is nice to read through this thread and see all of your efforts in getting your LX back in shape.

 

[grinchy]

Welcome to the club @hemicuda1313 . No one has put on a supercharger lately . . . Thanks for the kind words.

 

[grinchy]

So Lexus gave us a pretty cheesy mid skid. Mine is plastic. It was missing the oil drain plug cover. I went full fondue and added this high quality full custom cover made of complementary colored sheet metal.

Yum.

 

[grinchy]

Added a breakout box off the trailer connectors. Wired in the trailer connector, the bumper reverse, and the bumper license and brake. Easy to now add further lights if necessary to the bumper, and for other accessory use.

Just took all the bracket off the OEM trailer connector and wire tied it off flat to the mounting bracket. Now it is above the frame. I am hoping it won't block the under spare (if I take off the swingarm), but if it does, cutting two wire ties isn't too much trouble to move it.

 

[grinchy]

Here are the license lights and the plug I made for the license and brake. I haven't decided if I need a third brake light, so I ran a pin in, but not out of the plug. Easy to add a pin later.

 

[grinchy]

Bought four 25mm wheel spacers yesterday on a clearance deal.

I've been looking at these 275/80R18 Kenda KR28 All Terrain tires. They measure 35.3" in diameter. It's completely unnecessary, and probably impractical, but . . .

1 NEW 275/80R18 Kenda Klever AT KR28 275 80 18 2758018 R18 All Terrain RWL 10ply | eBay

I eventually will get into gears for lockers, but would be finer than fine for a long time (forever?) with some 33" 275/70R18 (I like the Falkens and Cooper XLT at the moment), but for the same price, it's hard not to at least consider 35s.

No local dealers of Kenda that I can find, so not much way to back out if they can't be made to fit.

 

[TeCKis300]

^Heh. Pushing the boundaries. Hope you have an angle grinder at the ready cause that front body mount is going to take some massaging. Perhaps even a welder to re-box them in. Wonder if Tundra chop plates work work? Likely. It's really not that big of a deal as Tundra's, FJs, and 4R's do this all the time.

EDIT adding link -

 

[grinchy]

Grinder but no welder. I made a cardboard template and think with sensor lift it will fit front to back, still need to turn the wheels left right and see how much fender liner will need to cut out.

Might just drive around in H all the time and stay under 19 mph.

Template Fits good I’m H.

Real problem is it accelerates gears, I was hoping to piece that together over time from the for sale forum and not drop $2500 all at once.

I really want 265/80 but it’s not a size made for 18 inch rims.

 

[TeCKis300]

Lift won't help you fit that tire. On an IFS suspension, lift doesn't change the suspension stroke, only the rest point. So you'll still need clearance to use any articulation. Or you could stay under 19mph on smooth asphalt.

The re-boxing in of the body mount likely doesn't contribute that much structurally day to day, as the portion taken off is at the end. Where it really comes in is likely in a crash where the tire is being pushed into the body mount. It's a pretty easy weld for most any shop though. Heck, I'm doing a welding project in my garage now, maybe I should tackle 35s! Back to structural, I'd weld, but it's probably doable with JB Weld and some underbody coating. You can do this!

FYI, gears is one thing and yes you'll likely need it. Just know brakes are equally affected.

 

[grinchy]

That looks easy.

 

[grinchy]

Did the passenger front axle today, hubs, rotors, bearing, metallic pads. Used a four foot pipe for leverage on the breaker bar for the hub. Easy.

 

[grinchy]

Used a two prong puller that I got 25 years ago to do a bmw rear bearing. About 2 hours. Figure the other side will take half that unless it is seized.

Definitely needed it, silky smooth and no vibration from the side of the truck anymore.