Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (3 Viewers)

[grinchy]

I'll add that I did want to avoid the random discoloration (not structural) that aluminum can display which could present a mottled kind of appearance in a shaley gray shade.

 

[grinchy]

Finished up. The longest M8 I had around was 30mm. It isn't long enough to accommodate the skid washers. Sigh. Longer Stainless on the way. I suggest 40mm. This is for the total chaos middle joint. Fit is good and close.

 

[grinchy]

And the small chunk I took out to make the transfer and gear skid match.

 

[grinchy]

So I've got the stainless bolts in where I can. They're too long (40mm) for the radiator support and won't thread all the way. Just right for the middle joint of the Total Chaos skids where the supplied 25mm are too short to thread at all. Too long but not run into anything for the other Asfir locations, but I had them so why not use them, most of those would be fine with 20mm, even the 30mm supplied was a bit long.

All antiseized and torqued up.

Hopefully these shots at least show the full skid plate install.

I am A#1 satisfied front to back. Only very minor fitment problems (one notch on an edge, hardly worth mentioning) due to using the two different manufacturers, and all parts look very serviceable.

Total cost (includes shipping too)
$10 Stainless Bolts -> Could get cheaper locally, but COVID
$30 Skid washers -> Total guilty pleasure purchase
$25 Primer and Paint (lots left)
$10 disposable paint roller and brushes (lots left)
$550 front and middle 1/4" aluminum skids - Total Chaos
$275 1/4" aluminum transfer case skid - Asfir 4x4
----
$900
$260 Rival 6mm AL Fuel skid
$50 - heat shield blanket for the mid-pipe - 2 feet of 1/2" (edit)
------
$1210 total all skids and coatings

 

[grinchy]

so I’ve had a rack mount light bar u far a few weeks, it’s no power. Today I took a couple hours to run a couple 12 gauge lines up top. eventually the plan is to have a fuse and relay box up there, but for now I will be happy with just the light bar.

following the video in this thread, It takes 20 minutes to pull the windshield trim.

Windshield moulding removal

Windshield moulding removal? My molding was either installed wrong or damage when removed for a windshield replacement. I see the FSM states these are non reusable. So I suppose I could just ripe them off. But I'd like to find the trick to releasing the 4 clips along the side and the 2 on top...

forum.ih8mud.com

i used 2 of these 12 gauge silicone jacketed cables

Amazon product ASIN B06XR9JTP7
which fit by the windshield with some persuading.

i decided to go into the channel behind the wiper linkage. There is a wire bundle you can route along on the left side to get under The .front trim

 

[grinchy]

I used zip tires at the roof channel, and went one wire on each side of the cosmetic fill back to the rack foot. At the foot you can just go underneath the gasket. If you take the rack Foot cover,off it is easy to Rite, but. I tenet break those so I left it alone.

 

[grinchy]

Next weekend I hope to terminate the wires at the relay and the light bar and Finish it up. I also have to still paint the mounts black.

 

[grinchy]

Decided to leave the mounts uncoated. Much shorter timeline. Got the plugs on, cable protection, and wired up to the Bluetooth relay. All good. The Rigidhorse is bright and lights up the street. Haven’t been able to test if it lights up a trail yet. Pleased that I used no RTV in the install, and I can move whatever wires as necessary.

 

[grinchy]

Off and on.

 

[radman]

View attachment 2310178

Sweet! I used a few pea-sized squirts of RTV on the inside of the trim, but I may go under when I send in my bar for repairs. Do you think all that wire will block water drainage? I assume water flows from the roof channels down behind the trim (where you have the wires)?

 

[grinchy]

You mean by the windshield? I’m that area the clips have space under, no problem. In the roof gtter I’m outside the channel, no issue. im also not worried about flow at the cosmetic channel. Under the foot I’m just routing around under the wind gasket , it isn’t lifted and quite flexible, I expect no issue. Ideal install would be with the cover off the foot, but every time I try to remove it I break a clip. So i left it.

in general I think it’s ok, but I do live in a rainy area s if I have a leak I’ll know soon.

 

[radman]

I'm really not certain, but I think some of the roof water makes It's way down the roof channels, then under the trim clips (I think I see leaves and debris in one of your pictures?), then drains down near the engine bay. If that's the case, your wires might block the water. I don't think you'll have a leak into the rig, just a backup from the roof.

I have a 1/2" gap between the windshield and the trim. This pic is before I glued it in:

 

[grinchy]

I'm really not certain, but I think some of the roof water makes It's way down the roof channels, then under the trim clips (I think I see leaves and debris in one of your pictures?), then drains down near the engine bay. If that's the case, your wires might block the water. I don't think you'll have a leak into the rig, just a backup from the roof.

I have a 1/2" gap between the windshield and the trim. This pic is before I glued it in:
View attachment 2311480

Oh your trim looks bent out. There is a wiper edge That should touch the glass all the way down. Water will get behind it but most would be directed away.

that stuff is on my roof, I have the lightbar touching via some weatherstripping to try to cut down on noise. And haven’t had the rig up to speed for a week or so, it just collects from my generous pine tree, There was some needles and cruft under the windshield trim but nothing untoward, mostly that fine dirt that sifts in. Won’t have any easier entry now all my trims all fit like stock. I think I need to take better pics. . .

 

[grinchy]

Try this

 

[radman]

Try this

View attachment 2311483

Our trim is definitely different. I can stick fingers in on both sides of the windshield, it's not bent. I see that yours is flat onto the windshield.


Your drawings makes sense for the wiring, but water will try to go in where you wrote "out" and follow the wiring to the engine bay.

Anyway, should be fine, and doesn't seem like a leak issue just a roof drain issue.

 

[CharlieS]

Not sure which year and model you have, mine is a '13 Land Cruiser, and like Grinchy, my trim has no gap, it is tight against the windshield. I know at least one side is definitely original equipment because I replaced it myself when running wires to power my lightbar.

 

[grinchy]

Our trim is definitely different. I can stick fingers in on both sides of the windshield, it's not bent. I see that yours is flat onto the windshield.


Your drawings makes sense for the wiring, but water will try to go in where you wrote "out" and follow the wiring to the engine bay.

Anyway, should be fine, and doesn't seem like a leak issue just a roof drain issue.

Oh, yeah, that is a different trim. Yes, water can go in there, it can without the wires too, there is a gap in the trim where it transitions from roof channel to glass channel (Circled in attached). I may have widened that gap a 1/16" I would say it is less likely now that i've packed that gap with 2 silicone 12 gauge that anything goes down there. The drain path is indeed down to the front of the firewall. I'll take a look at that next time it rains to see how much I'm getting. I made a drip loop behind the windshield wiper arms so I think very little will make it out of that box area.

The windshield seal has nothing to do with the side trim, it's sitting on a gasket.

 

[radman]

There's no benefit in me trying to go under the trim. Here's what it looks like on a '15:

Stock passenger side:

 

[grinchy]

Ok. I see @radman . You're in the shallow C channel in the trim, and aren't under it at all. Yep. That cable you used definitely wouldn't fit under the trim, so looks like a good solution to get up on top!

You could pop the top of the trim at the roof/windshield gutter and wire tie around it if you want to secure that 10" or so.

 

[radman]

Ok. I see @radman . You're in the shallow C channel in the trim, and aren't under it at all. Yep. That cable you used definitely wouldn't fit under the trim, so looks like a good solution to get up on top!

You could pop the top of the trim at the roof/windshield gutter and wire tie around it if you want to secure that 10" or so.

Will def do that after I send this junk back to adapt for "fixing". That's the stock cable it came with (there's a 3rd signal wire to change the beam pattern and accent light color ).