THE END OF A 60......5.3/4l80/NP241

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Joined
Sep 6, 2007
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170
Location
Greensboro NC
:wrench: 1982 FJ 60, Getting ready to remove the stock engine/4 speed/t-case and everything that goes with it, the truck shows 160K and is in good running condition. I would like to get rid of everything, kind of a package deal. If interrested let me know. Ill have it out in the next few weeks, gotta to make room for some american hp, 5.3/4l80/np241 :wrench:
 
Where are you located? Once i turn my 60 into a DD i am going to pull the 2f and 4 speed and put a 6.0 and the h55 5speed.
 
Por que?

No le gusta el 2F?
 
dubs - you should really post this in the classifieds section por favor.
 
I have a similar thread on the parting out forum, I posted $1600 for the setup but would consider less. Will consider shipping just let me know if interrested......until then HAPPY FJ ing:beer:
 
sooo why are you gonna use the pretty much worthess NP241? its a crappy chain drive that likes to break under mild off roading under a stock truck with some mildly larger tires...
it is much much much weaker in every aspect than the stock LC split case under your truck right now...

i personally would never want to down grade anything on my truck...

just saying


also the 4l80 would not be my first choice as i feel that the 4l60 can handle the abuse with a sufficient trans cooler attached, but the 4l80 is stronger than the 4l60 when both are in stock form, but it also uses more HP to turn it.
 
sooo why are you gonna use the pretty much worthess NP241? its a crappy chain drive that likes to break under mild off roading under a stock truck with some mildly larger tires...
Are you serious? The 241 is a damn strong TC, just don't bounce it off a rock and crack the case, (get a skid plate) nor drive the d-shaft up into it (properly measure the shaft travel)
241's live behind big block power.

Show me a 208/241 that has broken from torque loading.
 
Are you serious? The 241 is a damn strong TC, just don't bounce it off a rock and crack the case, (get a skid plate) nor drive the d-shaft up into it (properly measure the shaft travel)
241's live behind big block power.

Show me a 208/241 that has broken from torque loading.

Used to have one sitting in the garage with a fourth broken chain until I upgraded to the NP205. Problem solved. The 208 and 241 had significant issues.
Have you seen the gears in a Toyota split case? They's meant for abuse, and would chose them over the 241 any day.
 
Ive see guys run some pretty big engines in front of 208/241s and never had any problems. If you abuse them by going back and forth without stopping the wheels spin, you can stretch the chain, which could eventually fail. The gearing is way better than the toy t-case, which in a FJ62 is a stupid design. Take a good while to fix that t-case on the trail, 208s/241s are a dime a dozen and can be changed in less than an hour. Id take 480 (trans) over the 460 anytime, (allthough the 460 is a good trans, just a 700r4 with more wires) and Id like to see some info about it using up more power or gas.
I think the conversion sounds like a good one, but then you have the issue of the centered t-case and off set rear end....
 
And for the record, I agree the gears are stronger, but the chain driven ones arent as weak as some think.:wrench:

As far as selling the drive train, I got 1800 for the engine, tranny, t-case and axles outa mine. Not much demand here for stuff like that.....Until I need to buy it of course.
 
Show me a 208/241 that has broken from torque loading.

watched one break under a tahoe with some 285/75/16's on it and a stock 5.7 vortec engine, and another under a crew cab short bed with same tires.

if these 2 realitivly stock trucks could both snap a chain, then there is no way i would want it under a truck that i bash on. i dont like having to worry about failures. even tho i know after enough time its gonna happen.

im hard on my stuff, im not scared to get the truck bouncing some if thats the little bit that will take me where i want to go, im not scared to give it some throttle and let the clutch go when in 4low or any other combo for that matter. I think if it breaks it probally wasnt good enough in the first place and will upgrade. Ive snapped 2 rear axle shafts already. 1 on the street simply turning a corner (old age failure maybe) and another on the trail 5 min after bashing the crap out of my truck.

oh and just cause someone has a big block with lots of power doesnt mean they use all if that power or even come close to putting the skinny pedal to the floor when in anything less than a flat straight away.

just sayin.
 
I hear what youre saying, but consider that all newer trucks with any size engine are pretty much ALL running chain driven cases. Its all about keeping the chain tight. Some guys can break tough axles without even trying, and others can baby their rigs and make Chevy 10-bolts work. It used to be people would never run automatics because standards were so much better; now look at all the automatics in rigs out there. My preference would be to use the toycase and 203 doubler, but I myslef am on a budget! we'll see what happens with his build.:cheers:
 
newer trucks dont run chain drives for strength...

they run em for fuel effiency, lighter weight, less noise, less parasitic power loss ect. but strength is not any of the reasons they run them.
 

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