He is actually!
The Daily Chat Thread
- Thread starter Sporin
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I just play one at work.
After spending 4+ hours in the car after a bacon explosiion...I can guess at how this trade skill developed.
my plumbing skillz rank in the "if it don't leak, it's perfect" area. And those are some perfect joints 
I have since read that type L & K copper are OK, but not type M. Brazed joints are preferable. Some say schedule 240 PVC is OK, but not approved by OSHA and it doesn't stand up well to vibration and impacts and it shatters when it breaks as opposed to just splitting like iron and copper. Black iron is a lot cheaper than copper if you are running a long line, but copper won't rust. Pros and cons to both, but you should be OK and I'll withdraw my nose from your business.
I knew that, just rattling his cage. I wish he'd come up here to NH and help me put in a new boiler before mine blows up completely.
Sporin
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- Thread starter
- #3,527
Never to early to start planning for spring!
Job #1 is a long overdue front axle rebuild... it clicks even on the street. Looks like Kurt has a sale on his axle rebuild kit, Cruiser Outfitters so I'm going to order that. I already have a case of fancy Amsoil grease, and am saving for the possibility of needing new Birfs.
Figure I'll troubelshoot the front elocker while I'm up there as well.
Need to run the cable for the rear locker, and then I'll be ready for another summer of wheeling... more then last year I hope.
Anyone want to take a shot in the dark on troubleshooting a sound in my 80? Just for fun?
It's been happening forever, sounds like the rear of the truck floor is lifting and banging over bumps. However, I made sure that the rear body mounts were solid and tight already. Are there other mounts back there to check? What else could it be? Shocks are attached to where they are supposed to be, it's not something in the back as it does it even when empty. Happens over any decent sized bump or pothole.
Shot in the dark anyone? It's been doing it right along but I'd love to fix it.
Job #1 is a long overdue front axle rebuild... it clicks even on the street. Looks like Kurt has a sale on his axle rebuild kit, Cruiser Outfitters so I'm going to order that. I already have a case of fancy Amsoil grease, and am saving for the possibility of needing new Birfs.
Figure I'll troubelshoot the front elocker while I'm up there as well.
Need to run the cable for the rear locker, and then I'll be ready for another summer of wheeling... more then last year I hope.
Anyone want to take a shot in the dark on troubleshooting a sound in my 80? Just for fun?
It's been happening forever, sounds like the rear of the truck floor is lifting and banging over bumps. However, I made sure that the rear body mounts were solid and tight already. Are there other mounts back there to check? What else could it be? Shocks are attached to where they are supposed to be, it's not something in the back as it does it even when empty. Happens over any decent sized bump or pothole.
Shot in the dark anyone? It's been doing it right along but I'd love to fix it.
check the shocks again. You actually have to remove them to make sure they are installed correctly. That's because the top attachment point is a plate and you need to see what's happening on the other side of it.
Dave,
is that a low pitched clunk or higher pitched clank for that weird noise? does it change from the vehicle being cold as opposed to warmed up??
maybe Rick B has been in on this before, but clicking in the front of FJ80's is primarily due to the front diff and axles always being engaged and in motion. more engagement means more wear. unless there's evidence otherwise, i would more likely expect it to be the birfields rather than the diff. you could put it up on a lift or jackstands and run it in gear and listen while someone steers left and right a stethoscope would be more precise.
is that a low pitched clunk or higher pitched clank for that weird noise? does it change from the vehicle being cold as opposed to warmed up??
maybe Rick B has been in on this before, but clicking in the front of FJ80's is primarily due to the front diff and axles always being engaged and in motion. more engagement means more wear. unless there's evidence otherwise, i would more likely expect it to be the birfields rather than the diff. you could put it up on a lift or jackstands and run it in gear and listen while someone steers left and right a stethoscope would be more precise.
I actually have Daves solution sitting in my garage. Both front and rear locked axles that I've confirmed to work. Now when Dave prices out those two birfs and two locker actuators my phone should star ringing.
He said the noise though is coming from the rear so I doubt it is the front axle!
Sporin
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- Thread starter
- #3,533
It sounds exaclty like a bad rear body mount, something is definably lifting and coming clunking down in teh back, sounds like driver's side more then pass side. Rick's shock idea makes sense too.
My front axle needs a total rebuild, clicky even on the street. I know birfs aren't cheap *if* I need new ones. it's been like this the entire 2 years I've had it, including 2 Fall Gatherings plus more.
Not worried about the front locker, it's all there, motor and all, probably just a wiring issue. And if it's not, so be it, I've been open/open right along and I'll continue to be so.
Rear locker motor was junk, I already replaced it with a manual cable lock from Downey. I just need to run the actual cable and mount the lever in the truck, the manual parts at the diff work perfectly.
I did the exhaust in the Fall.
This truck has been rode hard and put away wet for a while before I got it. It's beat up and ugly, it has 245k miles on it. I'm not interested in--nor is it financially feaseable to--make it 100%. It is what it is and I love it to death offroad (less so on-road) so I just want to get it back to being mechanically safe and ready to roll. Everything else (lockers, etc) is just gravy... nice to have, but not necessary.
I was expecting to get hit hard by Uncle Sam this year due to my new self-employment but it turns out that if you don't make diddlysquat, you don't get too badly Roethlisberger'ed with taxes. So the truck stays, and I'll have some money to fix it up a bit.
My front axle needs a total rebuild, clicky even on the street. I know birfs aren't cheap *if* I need new ones. it's been like this the entire 2 years I've had it, including 2 Fall Gatherings plus more.
Not worried about the front locker, it's all there, motor and all, probably just a wiring issue. And if it's not, so be it, I've been open/open right along and I'll continue to be so.
Rear locker motor was junk, I already replaced it with a manual cable lock from Downey. I just need to run the actual cable and mount the lever in the truck, the manual parts at the diff work perfectly.
I did the exhaust in the Fall.
This truck has been rode hard and put away wet for a while before I got it. It's beat up and ugly, it has 245k miles on it. I'm not interested in--nor is it financially feaseable to--make it 100%. It is what it is and I love it to death offroad (less so on-road) so I just want to get it back to being mechanically safe and ready to roll. Everything else (lockers, etc) is just gravy... nice to have, but not necessary.
I was expecting to get hit hard by Uncle Sam this year due to my new self-employment but it turns out that if you don't make diddlysquat, you don't get too badly Roethlisberger'ed with taxes. So the truck stays, and I'll have some money to fix it up a bit.
Whip that thing into shape Dave!
Rick has a point. Buy his axle assembly and sell your worthless front axle to me for cheap
On the other hand, it isn't your daily driver. Keep up with the fluids and run it until it breaks.
You can attach your camera here and there underneath and watch/listen to the suspension, drivetrain and other moving parts working to locate the clunk.
On the other hand, it isn't your daily driver. Keep up with the fluids and run it until it breaks.
You can attach your camera here and there underneath and watch/listen to the suspension, drivetrain and other moving parts working to locate the clunk.
2 years driving on clicking birfs, just start looking for new ones now. When I talked with the previous owner about your truck he mentioned that he already tried to fix the actuators. Not sure of his skill level though.
No, but thanks.
I was in there, but never tried to fix, just unlocked rear manually for Dave to drive it home.
PO to me was running rear locked manually.
PO to him was in there messing with things...
but they were working for him for a couple years. I remember transfer CDL sticking on it once or twice, causing locker to not engage...he was wheeling it.
PO to him was me again;they worked fine when I had it back then.
PO to me then put on MAF lift and def rode hard a few times...birfs were clicking then
PO to him was original owner, 200+k miles, dealer serviced
that gas tank might be bouncing around...prolly shock bushings
wow that is some history. Well the guy behind the wheel who claimed to be the owner said he had pulled the motors apart and they were junk. Not sure where he fits in that line up.
It was that guy who took 37 runs at that hill 3 or so years back at your place and then finally pulled line.
Didn't mean to implicate you, just thought I had some information to share with Dave.
It was that guy who took 37 runs at that hill 3 or so years back at your place and then finally pulled line.
Didn't mean to implicate you, just thought I had some information to share with Dave.
