The Daily Chat Thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Things are good with the new gig. I'm hiring part time employees for Plymouth County, MA. Lemme know if anyone knows a potential employee who isn't a raging alcoholic, unreliable, or a complete thief.
 
Got about a foot here. overall theres alot of snow here, we live on the snow belt they always talk about on the local news. Somewhere in my front yard theres a 4 foot picket fence.
 
it snowed about 3-4 inches everyday for the last 3 days but last nights was the worst thick heavy stuff. I live at the end of a one lane dead end road and have been fighting the plow guy who I think doesn't start until he has had atleast a 6 pack.this time he plowed the whole street and left me a 6' berm in front of my driveway the snow was so wet and heavy that the plow compacted the snow into a solid chunk of ice. I literally had to use a pick axe to break it apart into manageable pieces.took me all morning. thought about plowing through it with Wilma but decided I needed the cardio.:)
 
Last night i drove to boston and back and went through white out conditions to clear freezing rain and sleet. No accumulation up here though.
 
ever since I installed the hose real for my air tools there have been some issues with flow. I ended up sourcing a larger regulator and hard plumbing it to the compressor.

Hopefully this will resolve the issue.
DSC_3662.webp
DSC_3663.webp
 
Is that 1/2"? I was running 3/4 black pipe on mine when it was hard piped and had no issues with cfm.


ever since I installed the hose real for my air tools there have been some issues with flow. I ended up sourcing a larger regulator and hard plumbing it to the compressor.

Hopefully this will resolve the issue.
 
Article:

Dana is best-known for their rear differentials and axle assemblies but for the 1995-2000 Toyota Tacoma, Dana provided the frame that was found to rust excessively, causing Toyota to issue a recall on 110,000 pickups built during those six model years. This recall affected mostly those who lived in areas with harsh winters and the rust problem was accelerated by the use of road salt.
Toyota was Dana Corp’s second largest customer in 2009, with 6% of their business coming from the Japanese automaker; second only to the 20% of business that Ford Motor Company provides. This $25 million payment will be charged against the earnings of 4th quarter of 2010 and while it sounds like a tremendous amount of money, Dana reported $6.1 billion in revenue during 2010 – meaning that the $25 million fine is likely only a small portion of the money made off of Toyota throughout their relationship.
Dana Corp sold the plants responsible for the faulty Toyota Tacoma frames that were affected by the recall in March 2010 but as part of the settlement between the two over the frame rust recall issue, Dana will shell out the cash as the plants were in their ownership when the problematic parts were produced.
I was cruising through the Grappone Toyota lot near Concord NH the other day and there were a lot of trucks with plates on them sitting there with snow on top. Way too many to just be in for service. Around back there was a big stack of frames. I was down there this past fall and there was a stack of new frames and even more stacks of rusty frames stacked up. Seeing all that and reading the comments here has turned me off thinking about any of the trucks. On the other hand, at least they are standing behind this frame problem that is technically not their fault.

Funny how all the Toyota quality disappeared when so many parts for them (or the entire vehicle) started to be made over here.
 
yes. The compressor's output was 3/8 NPT as well as the inlet to the hose reel. This is really a big improvement over what I had.

Bigger is always better when it comes to airflow, just like intake and exhaust.

Tell that P/T plumber to take a hike, those are great joints :D

I ran black iron with mine, one inch. Twenty years now without issues. I can shut the terminus valve (the one at the end of the system) down and the system doesn't lose pressure at all. I never have to shut off my compressor except for maintenance, i.e. oil and draining. I also have it plumbed with a secondary outlet so I can get as much volume as the kompressor will put out prior to the secondary regulator which is there to keep the pressure down for painting. (My finish work painting skills are a joke by the way, but I can prime and seal like crazy!)

I may be wrong, but I think copper water pipe is a no-no at the kind of pressures put out by a compressor unless you have it regulated down before it goes into the copper. I don't see any regulation on yours.

When I was doing the research to put my system in, it was recommended that you have a way to drain off the water that accumulates in the lines. The lines shouldn't be level, you want to allow water to run back into the compressor so you can drain it off from the compressor drain before it gets to the filter and also have the ability to drain it off after the filter/secondary regulator. So it should be all uphill and have a lower drain after that. Even with a filter, you will get some water due to condensation when the heated air cools inside the line and hoses. I would replace your elbow on the left where it goes up to the reel with a tee and a short down pipe with another valve. That way you can open that valve to drain water from above. If your horizontal feed line is level, you need to have it angled so any water will drain. If the garage space isn't always heated, you can also accumulate ice in a line that doesn't properly drain. That can burst the pipe or restrict airflow. Water isn't good to have in your airtools, tires and especially in a paintgun.

I also have a shut off after the filter so I can shut pressure off at my hose fitting. Couplers and hoses tend to leak over time. My run from the compressor to the main outlet is about 25 feet, so a shut off close to my terminus is handy. Yours is probably close enough that you can just close the valve near the compressor and not keep stress on a hose that will probably someday develop a leak and allow the compressor to run on and on. I recommend that you keep that valve closed when the compressor isn't being used unless you normally shut it off completely.

I can shoot some pix tomorrow to clarify if anyone wants to see them. I don't have a link for any of you because I did this all about 10 years before having a computer. It was researched through catalogs for compressors and sand blasting equipment. I'm sure this forum or google has plenty of facts and suggestions, but I'd go with the experts, not just an opinion like mine.

Not to criticize your setup, just some suggestions. I'd urge you to look into that pressure issue with the copper. Like I said, I may be wrong, but a burst pipe at 125 psi would be a loud and scary event.

(And no Junior and Tim, you don't have to bring up my experience with putting the heated seats from a Saab into my Tan 40 and learning about the wiring for the side airbag - thank you very much :flipoff2:.)
 
Funny how all the Toyota quality disappeared when so many parts for them (or the entire vehicle) started to be made over here.

The supposed faulty accelerator pedals were contracted out to an American manufacturer. And now these frames. It is a shame that Toyota's philosophy of contracting to US companies to increase American content percentages has bit them in the _ss. This 25 mil settlement is only over the Tacomas. I am sure the Tundras will follow suit. I saw six frames sitting at Hurlbert Toyota in Epping with another Tundra still in pieces.
 
Back
Top Bottom