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I think storing batteries on concrete was more of a problem in the 70s and earlier. I don't know what changed internally with battery structure but older batteries were definitely an issue. Had two friends that went to the local vocational school for auto mechanics in the late 70s and early 80s and it was something the school was teaching back then.

I believe the old battery cans must have had a capacitive coupling issue.
 
I found this on the web and it seems plausible:

I read a lengthy discussion of this topic once. All of the explanations here were mentioned and one additional that seemed the most reasonable to me: If the battery is sitting on a heat sink that creates a temperature differential in the battery volume (like concrete)a density gradient in the acid solution will occur. A small internal current will accompany the density gradient. So you need two things to discharge a battery: A big heat sink and significant temperature fluctuations.
 
just an old wives tale, I asked about that to some major batter manufactures a while back and they said it would not hurt them if stored on a concrete floor

Interstate battery guy told me the same
 
Dave,
Tap the leads from your charger together and see if there's a spark, it'll be a small spark if it's a trickle charger. Or put a multi meter on it and check the amps.
 
thanks Dave, I'll check that later.

If it's the battery, at least it's warranteed. Guess I need to get one of those solar battery tenders if my truck is going to sit like that for a period of time.
 
If a somewhat new battery went dead, chances are you have a power draw somewhere.
When you get a charged battery in the truck check for a current draw. Hook up the negetive terminal to the battery, then put your multi meter between the positive cable and positive post. Key off, doors closed, hood light off etc. I'm not sure if this will work with those new fangled 'puter controlled vehicles, but it works with my dinosaur.
 
to check for an amp draw you can do as FLAG suggests but you need a meter that has that ability. Doing as he discribes in the DCV mode only shows a potential and that doesn't mean there is a substantial draw.

The difference is, to have remote access to a vehicle something within the truck has to be ON to receive the command from the remote. While the DCV check would show voltage from this it wouldn't be enough AMPs to kill your battery in a short time.

I have such a meter and have found draws in vehicles with it.
 
oh there is a draw, that STUPID factory alarm, but I've never had an issue before, winter or summer, assuming I start it up and drive it about every 2 weeks.

Think I'll wind up paying the prorate on the warranty, trying to upgrade to a bigger model, then getting a proper battery tender on it for these extended "parked" times.

Thanks guys!
 
I'd at least try to find a friend or neighbor with a real hefty charger and try to revive it before I gave up on a one year old battery.
 
I have a key fob, it even works.... I'm just not convinced the alar isn't still drawing.

the alarm will always have a draw. It is constantly sensing for the key fob signal. But there is other possibilities also that are powered but should not draw.

The seats are one as well as the vanity mirrors in the sun visors. Both of these are powered all the time but should not draw any power unless used.

You might go out at dark and just pull down the visor to see if there is light coming out of the crack. Also, move the front seats in a position where you can see if they moved since you last left the truck. All the way back or the seat back all the way forward won't help you find out if there is a motor moving as it is already at it's limits.
 
just watched that entire Bolivia special with Jack, what a hoot! Love that show. :) IU'll just say, in the Cruiser's defense, that the biggest breaksdowns were caused by the halfassed Bolivian modifications.
 
Brought my battery to the garage to see what was up (interstate dealer). They put it on their big charger and it took a charge and held it well. He echoed what Ed said above, that a lot of times trickle chargers just don't have the power to recharge a fully-dead batter.

I left it in the garage for now on a milk crate instead of putting it back in the truck to start draining again. I do have a quick disconnect on the battery, I should probably remember to undo it when I park it for a long time.
 

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