The Cursed Build

[Mudder]

What have you guys fine to separate the rotors from the hubs? They're different then the its ones and I don't wanna ruin wheel studs

 

[Toast]

Again, brass drift and a big hammer will knock the wheel studs out just fine.

 

[Mudder]

Well I ended up messing up one upper stud so after I couldn't get the other cone washer out I beat it to hell as well. So I'll be waiting for those to come in. I got the passenger side half way done but now I'm dealing with wheel studs that don't want to come out as well

 

[Mudder]

Well it got even worse. Two of the 6 wheel bolts won't come of one side and one of them is messed up and 6 of 6 are stuck on the other side. I'll have to press them out I believe. If I press them won't I ruin them?

 

[pappy]

If I press them won't I ruin them?

Depends on how you do it. Wheel studs are pressed into the hub and should not come out easy. Using the brass hammer mentioned above they come out just dandy. Place brass hammer on wheel stud, and give it a hard smack with a 2-3# BFH. Works every time. If they are just slightly messed up you can chase the threads with a M12-1.5 die.

 

[KLF]

I have a big chunk of brass, about 1" around. I set the hub on the concrete floor, set the brass drift on the stud (held in a pair of vice grips, just in case I miss), and give it a hard hit with my 3# BFH. They pop right out undamaged. I have a 20T press, and I still prefer to do it this way. Safer and faster.

If you're trying to do this on a wooden workbench that is not very very solid, then you are wasting your time. Most of the energy of your hammer blows gets absorbed into flexing the bench. Put it on the floor.

 

[Mudder]

It's on the floor. I already had one messed up so I beat it to hell and still no luck

 

[Mudder]

Well I got all the studs out. I'm replacing all 12 becuae 9 out of the 12 were trashed as I have up on saving them.

 

[Mudder]

So with the clutch do you really have to undo the front drive line or can I just undo the rear one at the T-case (Need to put a new seal between T-Case and transmission) and be fine? I've seen what KLF said but I want to see what other have to say

 

[Toast]

I would remove the front driveline. Just makes things more manageable

 

[Mudder]

I pulled it at the dif. I'm not one to complain on here but what happened really p*ssed me off. I called my local Ayn rental asking about their 1 ton tranny jack. They said they had it so I get down there and nope its out for another week but they do have their 5-ton in. Nope its not it its over due and yes the guy said on the phone it was in stock

 

[KLF]

I have no idea how you can drop the transmission & transfer without disconnecting the front driveshaft. I usually leave it bolted to the transfer output but unbolt it from the front diff, just let it hang. But you need a good jack, it will be very lopsided and want to roll over.

 

[Mudder]

I figured it would and that's why I wanted to rent a transmission jack.

 

[Mudder]

@Toast here's the response Luke sent back to me
"That's pretty low. We can do it but theres very little room for
suspension travel.
-luke"

 

[Toast]

Hmmm. Idk mudder, what you think? Worth it? Well how much?

 

[Mudder]

Complete set upbia $550. Then the ifs box as well. Me personally I think I'll run my stock push pull until I start breaking stuff as I already have limited flex. Then to limit it even more

 

[Mudder]

So I have everything ready just need to stop the tranny. Just waiting for the jack and will do it next week as I'm gone this weekend. I've also decided to put a spartan locker in the rear of my truck. Even with it being a DD I still use it for hunting and some of those spots get pretty nasty with ruts and mud.

 

[muddpigg]

If your working on a solid surface a floor jack that'll reach will work with a couple buddies. Or take the T-case and tranny of separately. Neither are super heavy with a couple guys it's not bad.

I think you'll like the lunch box locker in the rear. I drove a locrite for years with no problems. The trick i found for snow was put it in 4wd so the rear doesn't push out as bad.

 

[Mudder]

I actually have a question about the t-case. The gasket between the t-case and tranny went out and I have a new one from Marlin. I already drained the oil from the tranny as it needs replacing, but my question is so I need to drain the t-case oil as well? I'll be separating them and don't want oil all over if I can avoid it

 

[pappy]

Yes, you will need to drain the t-case. Or, you will have a bunch of oil on your floor, and your buddies.