Bent valve?
The Cursed Build
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #682
That's what I'm thinking. I didn't bother to check them but with it being an interference style engine the piston breaking at 65 mph probably damaged the valves for number 4 piston. I have new valves and guides coming from Engnbldr and another head gasket.
- Thread starter
- #683
I swear everything is going to s*** on this truck. Got the head off and looked at my brake MC and noticed some rust. Well the darn thing is leaking. I'll be calling Marlin tomorrow about that. Sucks their warranty is I send it to them so they can check it then they send it back if they say it's my fault or they send me a new one if it isn't.
- Thread starter
- #684
Well, I have the FJ80 MC installed, dual diaphragm brake booster, FJ60 wheel cylinders and v6 calipers on my truck now. Only problem is I can't get a firm pedal. I've used over 3 qts to bleed the brakes using both the gravity method and the old fashioned way that involves two people and neither way has done much good. I've been bleeding them the correct way according to the FSM and have done bench bleeding the MC twice now. The weird thing is so the pedal goes all the way down to the floor but it does lock my tires up once it reaches the bottom of it's stroke. I'm at a dead end right now though, any help would be great.
- Thread starter
- #685
Took the truck for a 800 mile drive. Everything was going great until the O'Reilly alternator took a crap. On either my 4th or 5th one now. A Toyota one is in the future when funds are available for it. Started to smell gear oil about 100 miles from my home so I just kpt going and parked it in the driveway last night and came out to oil spots near the rear of the T-cases and sure enough it's leaking. SO I ordered a seal kit from Marlin and will be tearing it down once that arrives. It'll also goes in for an A/C charge this week thankfully!
ntsqd
technerd
I never, ever got any life out of reman'd alts on Patch. I finally gave up and built a pivot bracket and tensioner to put a Delco 100A CS130 ('91 1/2t 4x4 Suburban application) on the truck. Then at least if it failed on the road I could get another easily. I think the location on the engine was a big contributor to their short lives. Low and left like that put it right in both road grime and the prop-wash off the cooling fan.
- Thread starter
- #687
I had that same thought about the grime actually. And started thinking about if I could either A) make a shield for it or B) mount it in a different spot.
I've never had a problem with Toyota remans. I usually just wear out the brushes and those are an easy fix. I will replace the brushes once or twice, then if I have any concerns get another Toyota reman even if the alternator is still working.
- Thread starter
- #689
Figured I'd give a little update. This new motor is still running strong, but there's an oil leak. Not a huge deal to me as I've purchased a 3rz and everything needed to do the swap. My plan is to strip the interior of this truck and put some sound deadener inside, have EngnBldr machine the bottom end of the 3rz and hope that the head isn't cracked. Also on my list of things to do is tear my current transmission apart and install new bearings.
Curious to hear about the 3RZ swap. I'm afraid the days of my faithful 22RE are numbered. Dunno where I'd get one though, now that most of them got shredded during the frame buyback program.
There's always a 1UZ...
There's always a 1UZ...
- Thread starter
- #691
3rz are hard to come by. I just got lucky with this one. My goals for it will be a stock rebuild using all Toyota gaskets but I'm doing head studs as my goals will be a 3rz supercharger with a URD MAF calibrator, Walbro fuel pump and a URA pulley so it'll put out around 8 psi. Should get me around 175 HP to the wheels. A couple guys on the MC board are running turbocharged 3rz and even with 35's are putting out 161 HP at 5 psi of boost.
I actually never converted it, that truck still had the stock push-pull steering when I had to put it down. I did put a drop draglink on it though.
ntsqd
technerd
When I built my own mid-steer (cross-over drag-link above the springs, but left the tie-rod in the stock location) I used a flat pitman arm and still managed to put a small crease in the oil pan. The only pic that I have of the system, those are std OME front springs:
- Thread starter
- #695
AH, I must have misunderstood you when I was reading an older thread. I had seen some of the older high steer arms that looked like yours ntsqd. But I did get my high steer kit ordered. It's Trail Gears only because I want to upgrade to Marlin's 25mm pin arms and didn't want to waste a set of All-Pros. I did go with the flat pitman arm as well.
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ntsqd
technerd
That arm was originally built before high steer flat arms were available. It is the old school method of of welding two OE steering arms together, that I then plated and gusseted. I actually did it in art class (they had better TIG machines that the MFG labs did!) and got credit for an abstract sculpture assignment called "Steering Part". 
Scans of old pics right after building it:
Turned out that the upper was too high up for the low lift. I had to machine it off and insert a piece of bar stock to lower the height of the upper tapered hole. Can kinda see this in the post above.
Scans of old pics right after building it:
Turned out that the upper was too high up for the low lift. I had to machine it off and insert a piece of bar stock to lower the height of the upper tapered hole. Can kinda see this in the post above.
- Thread starter
- #697
Looks like I may put my truck on hold. Been looking for more power (3rz swap) but I was offered a 1986 F-250 that's been in the family since new. I'm still debating due to gas milage difference (3rz vs carb'd 460).
In 1986 I was working for Halliburton in the oil fields of Ohio. We had several F350s with that same engine (and 3 speed manual trannys). The things were beasts, you could fill the bed with all sorts of iron or bags of chemicals, and they wouldn't even break a sweat. But... the motto we had for them was "they can pass anything but a gas station". Seriously... like 6-8 mpg. We had to add a second tank just to get through the day of use.
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- #699
Well the Ford will probably be a no go, still fighting a fuel problem and I'll be leaving for school again soon. But in other news I picked up a E-locker from a guy on the Marlin board. It's trashed but I already knew that. My plan will be during the 3rz swap down time to put it in and use my 4.56 gears in my current diff to set it up. Here's the carnage SqWADoosh's 85 Runner Build Thread - Page 52 . I also ordered up Marlin's dual case adapter. Plans will be by the end of next August to have my 3rz swap running, front and rear E-lockers and the dual cases.
- Thread starter
- #700
Marlin Adapter showed up today. Needless to say I'm pretty disappointed. All I got was the adapter and a gasket kit. No coupler, hardware or anything else that should've been in there. I'll be calling them on Monday about it.
