- Thread starter
- #661
Well new rings came in...Turns out the pistons aren't standard size. So I'm going to have to wait for LCE to tell me then I'll order them probably from Engnbldr as Engnbldr is only 1 day shipping to me.
The Cursed Build
- Thread starter Mudder
- Start date
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cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Jesus!
- Thread starter
- #663
I'll give y'all a warning; I'm extremely angry right now. Long story short, ordered a new crankshaft from LCE part number on website was wrong crank. S we then came to the conclusion that with the part number I have the crankshaft is a .010/.010 crank. Sat down today to just look at the runout specs and it's a .020/.020 crank. I'm so F’ing pissed. I was hoping to drop this in and considering the part number LCE sent me I figured they knew what the F they were talking about. They've since fixed their website to the crank they stock but I'm so close to just being done shopping there.
- Thread starter
- #664
Well LCE has proven why they're customer service is one of the best. They called to double check they were understanding what was going on and they told me, of their own will I didn't ask that if indeed this crank is a .020/.020 they'll refund the money I spent buying bearings locally.
- Thread starter
- #665
This won't happen just yet, but I am thinking about adding a turbo to my 22re. Now before you say "oh that's a bad idea, they aren't a engine meant for power". Yes I know they aren't. But here's my thought process; drop my compression to 8.5:1, add LCE's turbo kit (Yes I know I could piece it together cheaper which I may do using a T3/T4 turbo and LCE's exhaust manifold) Keep the boost low, 7 PSI so I can use my stock injectors and I'm not putting too much strain on the engine and of course putting a shield around the turbo to keep my hood cool, maybe even add an intercooler. Now why would I go through all this trouble to turbo a 22re? Well here's why; the 22re doesn't have power and that's fine with me until I hit a long steep hill on the highway. A turbo with low boost would help keep me in 4th gear instead of high RPM's in 3rd. I plan on low boost so I can use a stock style head, there's zero need for more than 7 PSI for what I want it for. But this is still a thought in process. I know a turbo would limit my water crossings and quite frankly I wouldn't take this truck off roading as much unless I was hunting as it'd be a turbo or lockers. I know I want lockers but for long hills a turbo would be nice. We'll see.
What you just described is exactly what I have in my 4runner. 8-ish:1 compression, T3/T4 turbo ~ 7psi of boost. It has made running down the highway MUCH easier.
The only issues I see with your plan are your proposed injector choice and lack of comment on computer. With my setup I have been quite pleased with my stock 22rte injectors (slightly higher flow over stock 22re, but I can't remember the exact flow difference). I have not, however been as pleased with running the stock 22rte computer - I would recommend NOT using your 22re computer as the fuel/timing maps are significantly different than that of the 22rte. If I were you, and already had to spend money on an ecu, I would look into getting a mega-squirt PnP from the get go (DIYPNP Nippon Denso 42pin Unassembled Kit). So now you're in it the cost of the turbo kit and the ECU.
For my rig:
Pros:
Will run down the highway at 75-80 mph in 5th gear.
Will climb 10 miles of 7% grade in 4th at 60 mph
Makes pulling small trailers easier
Sounds f-ing awesome
Was/is a great project
Cons:
Low-end torque sucks (this is HIGHLY dependent on turbo selection)
Mileage is not quite as advertised - I haven't seen anything over 16 mpg since my swap
MUST run higher octane fuels
Loss of simplicity of a 22re
Have to monitor things like a hawk - hence the reason I have 5 extra gauges (pyro, boost, oil pres, water temp and A/F)
More frequent oil changes due to thermal breakdown - or move over to synth oil.
So to summarize, if you have the time, ambition and $$$ to do it - do it.
The only issues I see with your plan are your proposed injector choice and lack of comment on computer. With my setup I have been quite pleased with my stock 22rte injectors (slightly higher flow over stock 22re, but I can't remember the exact flow difference). I have not, however been as pleased with running the stock 22rte computer - I would recommend NOT using your 22re computer as the fuel/timing maps are significantly different than that of the 22rte. If I were you, and already had to spend money on an ecu, I would look into getting a mega-squirt PnP from the get go (DIYPNP Nippon Denso 42pin Unassembled Kit). So now you're in it the cost of the turbo kit and the ECU.
For my rig:
Pros:
Will run down the highway at 75-80 mph in 5th gear.
Will climb 10 miles of 7% grade in 4th at 60 mph
Makes pulling small trailers easier
Sounds f-ing awesome
Was/is a great project
Cons:
Low-end torque sucks (this is HIGHLY dependent on turbo selection)
Mileage is not quite as advertised - I haven't seen anything over 16 mpg since my swap
MUST run higher octane fuels
Loss of simplicity of a 22re
Have to monitor things like a hawk - hence the reason I have 5 extra gauges (pyro, boost, oil pres, water temp and A/F)
More frequent oil changes due to thermal breakdown - or move over to synth oil.
So to summarize, if you have the time, ambition and $$$ to do it - do it.
- Thread starter
- #668
Thank you so much @Kris! That's the type of info I was hoping to find but I just didn't put enough time in to find it. On a side note, the gasket came off of part of the timing cover after I got it all installed. The area in question is the area right behind the driver's side coolant passage/water pump area. I put some RTV sealant there but I'm wondering if I should just pull it all apart again to fix it. Yes I know we're only talk about 1 1/2 hours of work but I'm at the stage where I just want this engine done but still be reliable.
- Thread starter
- #669
This could be a really stupid idea (I'm great at those) but has anyone replaced their starter bolts with studs? It'd make installing the thing a hell of a lot easier. But maybe there's some reason why I shouldn't. What do you guys think before I do this and completely ruin another thing.
One of them (the top one) is supposed to be a stud.
- Thread starter
- #671
Now that is news to me. I may have to pull the starter and install a stud. It'd make life so much easier.
What KLF said. Makes life a lot easier.
- Thread starter
- #673
I must have some s***ty luck. E-mailed Witchhunter about my injectors as they should've shipped by now only to have them say there's nothing listed under my name.
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- #674
So my injectors are somewhere but when/if they get to Witchhunter (said they were delivered June 23rd) he'll be sending them back to me without cleaning them. I called up LCE, who will have my business for pretty much everything from now on, an asked them if they could get a set of Injectors out today and told them why and Mike, been helping me with the block issue. Not only said yes but actually put me on hold to go get them and package them himself. He also put the money they said they'd give to me for the whole bearing issue towards them after I said to not worry about it since he's getting the injectors out to me today.
- Thread starter
- #675
Here's a crappy pictures of the engine before I put it in. I also got a FSM, wiring diagram manual and new truck features manual.
- Thread starter
- #676
Well if it's going to go wrong it'll happen to me. LCE sent me the wrong injectors.
- Thread starter
- #677
I got it all put back together and fired her up! Tach doesn't work and does the oil pressure gauge. Oh well it gives me something else to do. It currently runs like crap and with t1 and e1 jumpered the Ile doesn't change. So I'll be adjusting the tps tomorrow and hopefully can get it to run right.
- Thread starter
- #679
That's my thought as well. But that's low on my list of items. Currently the truck still won't run for crap. Going to get a new cap and rotor tomorrow just to make sure and move fuel injectors around and do the unhooking of things to make sure nothings wrong there. The TPS is adjusted correctly.
- Thread starter
- #680
Found out the number 4 cylinder is having problems. Now, number 4 piston rod is what blew on my old block, I'm thinking it may have messed up the head but I won't know until tomorrow when I can rent a compression tester. If it's low I'll pull the head and probably oil pan and check the piston as well unless I find a way to only check that the valves are working. I know it's getting spark as I did the ol' pull plug wires and see which one isn't working and it was number 4 cylinder. So I then swapped the pigtails for fuel injectors between number 3 cylinder. WHich has been running perfect and there was no change and I even changed fuel injectors and there wasn't a change there either.
