The Coleman Thread (4 Viewers)

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TXLX100 said:
I like that coffee maker. Still haven't figured out a good coffee situation for the road.
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I have that coffee maker and it is well worth the space it takes up, I also use it to heat water for cleaning dishes.
I scored a brand new one on eBay with the steel pot for 45 bucks last year.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Anytime the flames are yellow it's running rich. Generally by turning the lever up, you are supplying some compressed air with the gas. In a warm restart situation, I'd do the lever up thing just like you would if it was cold, then pump up the pressure a bit. When it's burning correctly, turn the lever down, and pump it up to full pressure.

Have you replaced the generator? When they get old and clogged, they can do stuff like this.
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Yea - the generator is brand new this winter. I used it all weekend and it performed better than "normal" for the restarts. I typically like to depressurize the tank and start over, and that seems to work better.

You mention pumping after it's lit. I know that's typically recommended for these types of stoves and lanterns, but that's where I've had trouble with liquid gas spilling out into the burner and causing a fire. That's why I replaced the generator this past winter, but I had the same issue a couple weeks ago after pumping it while it was running.

It's to the point where my wife won't touch it (she wants to go propane), and my camping pals are afraid of it. But I like my gas stove and want it to stay alive....
 
my old peak 1 single burner does that-but only when someone new is watching...just curious, have you tried loosening the filler cap SLOWLY to release pressure then start over? That sometimes works on the peak 1 when it's acting out...
 
PS, your camping buddies aren't very adventurous
 
Sure we are. :)
I use old Coleman stuff too but I've never seen a stove flare like jackets. Makes you think about the tank going off
 
clogged air tube. my guess...
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
clogged air tube. my guess...
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Agree. Run a frayed wire through the manifold to pull out any cob webs or spiders. Compressed air is often not enough. With yellow flames, it's too much gas, not enough air.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Agree. Run a frayed wire through the manifold to pull out any cob webs or spiders. Compressed air is often not enough. With yellow flames, it's too much gas, not enough air.
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my guess was based on your advice to me...;)
 
Appreciate the thoughts.

I soaked the tubes in carb cleaner over the winter, then ran pipe cleaners through all the tubes to ensure clear passages. And both burners were removed, separated and cleaned. I think it's in good shape, and it runs perfectly from a cold start.

Is it fair to say that the pressurizing of the tank is what atomizes the liquid gas? And then the heat passing over the generator maintains the white gas in a gaseous state while in operation? My issue is that repressurizing the tank allows excess liquid gas to flow into the tube and burner. Either the pressure in the tank, or the generator/needle value should prevent excess flow, but it's not in the case of relighting the stove. This is where I get stuck. I don't really know what's different in this restart case vs. the "cold start case", except that the tank has some pressure already. And I guess if the stove is already lit, then the generator valve is open when trying to increase pressure, which could allow excess gas to flow. But repressurizing is recommended in the process, so I dunno.
 
How far are you opening the valve when you do your "restart"? It doesn't take much -- 1/8th to 1/4th turn. If you're getting a lot of liquid fuel then either the valve is open too far or the fuel is accumulating on something like cob webs or other junk in the air tube. Also, and I'm sure you know this, you've got to allow time for the fuel to reach the burner. Maybe 10 or 20 seconds. You can hear an audible difference from when just compressed air is coming out the end of the generator versus fuel.

The generator, when hot, is what vaporizes the liquid fuel. I don't think there's much if any atomization going on. So startup is all about getting the generator hot enough to vaporize the fuel. The spiral spring inside the generator provides more surface area for the fuel to contact and absorb heat and vaporize. If the stove is off for 1/2 hour the generator is going to be lukewarm at best and not a very efficient vaporizer, so should be just like starting from a cold condition.

I've never had to depressurize the tank when restarting, so I'd say that's not normal. These stoves are a pretty simple design and so not much can go wrong. Not sure what's up with yours though.

EDIT: Another thought. Have you taken the valve assemble off the tank to check if the air lever is working properly? (Use a vice to hold the valve assembly and then grab the tank with your hands. Otherwise it's easy to bend the top of the tank.)
 
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From our
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UP trip last weekend......
 
Coleman stoves can do a lot more than baked beans. They're (almost) just like your gas stove at home. Expand your thinking!
 
Ours is a Coleman Olympic from what I belive to be the late 70's. It worked amazing well for us especially considering it has been in storage for the last few decades in my inlaw's garage.

I need to work on some campside recipes....
 
Found a new 425F on CL and grab it as soon as possible,it was 10 min. away from where i work. This is in better shape than the 426D i bought a few months back. This perfect for solo road trips. 20150802_112921.jpg 20150802_112752.jpg 20150802_112620.jpg 20150802_112632.jpg
 
The Tab? Bah..
 
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