Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

Wouldn’t E range be a more rigid, higher weight bearing tire? The interwebs says 2755 per tire. I’d think that would require even lower presssures to allow the sidewalls to flex a bit. Pretty counterintuitive - maybe just a “different tire, different material” issue.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Wouldn’t E range be a more rigid, higher weight bearing tire? The interwebs says 2755 per tire. I’d think that would require even lower presssures to allow the sidewalls to flex a bit. Pretty counterintuitive - maybe just a “different tire, different material” issue.

I'm not sure that running a low enough air pressure on a load rated E tire would be a good idea, if I remember right they have a more rigid sidewall as part of the design.

I may be wrong. I only run the heavier E tires on my truck.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'm not sure that running a low enough air pressure on a load rated E tire would be a good idea, if I remember right they have a more rigid sidewall as part of the design.

I may be wrong. I only run the heavier E tires on my truck.

Any recollection of what tire pressure you're running? The KM3's are E-rated, 10-ply sidewalls (rigid) so probably similar to what you're running. Even with a rigid sidewall, I imagine you still want an even tread contact pattern, right? That's the debate I'm having - do I wear out the center of the tire quickly, or do I run a low pressure on a rigid tire to get the contact pattern I like?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Any recollection of what tire pressure you're running? The KM3's are E-rated, 10-ply sidewalls (rigid) so probably similar to what you're running. Even with a rigid sidewall, I imagine you still want an even tread contact pattern, right? That's the debate I'm having - do I wear out the center of the tire quickly, or do I run a low pressure on a rigid tire to get the contact pattern I like?

I only run the E rated on my Dodge 3500, at about 80 psi if I remember correctly. I have a large Lance truck camper.

On my 40 I’m still running old M/T’s that we’re on it when I bought it. Maybe 25 psi on those. Cheap tires.

 

[reddingcruiser]

What, new tires on the baby stroller?! Shouldn't you be inside changing diapers, Mister?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

What, new tires on the baby stroller?! Shouldn't you be inside changing diapers, Mister?

I'm still trying to convince Rachel that a lift kit and lockers for the stroller would be a wise investment. I knew babies would go through a lot of diapers, but to say I SEVERELY underestimated the amount of time I'd spend elbow deep in baby poop would be an understatement... She still sleeps almost all day so I'm trying to knock out as many little projects as I can. She'll be mobile, attentive, and even higher maintenance before I know it!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I knew babies would go through a lot of diapers

Those diaper boxes make the best moving boxes.

 

[Jdc1]

I'm still trying to convince Rachel that a lift kit and lockers for the stroller would be a wise investment. I knew babies would go through a lot of diapers, but to say I SEVERELY underestimated the amount of time I'd spend elbow deep in baby poop would be an understatement... She still sleeps almost all day so I'm trying to knock out as many little projects as I can. She'll be mobile, attentive, and even higher maintenance before I know it!

We had at least 1 in diapers for 9 years straight. Withholding food doesnt work on reducing diapers either.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

We had at least 1 in diapers for 9 years straight. Withholding food doesnt work on reducing diapers either.

Good lord...better you than me! If we have any more, it will be one more...and I’m still trying to figure out how I’d cover daycare for 2. When I moved to Cecil County I had planned on private school. What I didn’t realize is that private school is a drop in the bucket compared to daycare!

 

[bikersmurf]

I'm not sure that running a low enough air pressure on a load rated E tire would be a good idea, if I remember right they have a more rigid sidewall as part of the design.

I may be wrong. I only run the heavier E tires on my truck.

Regarding lower pressure on E rated. I have an Ambulance with E rated 80 psi max tires. The pressure specified on the upfitters label on the door frame is 65 psi on the front and 55 psi on the rear. That’s for a rig that’s built to be run hard and fast. The pressures don’t relate since they’re 225/75R16s and there’s 3000 lbs in the front and 6000 lbs out back with the rig empty. Everything about the rig is safety first... with little thought put into mileage or tire longevity.

Therefore, I’d certainly say it’s safe to run low enough to have proper contact.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Regarding lower pressure on E rated. I have an Ambulance with E rated 80 psi max tires. The pressure specified on the upfitters label on the door frame is 65 psi on the front and 55 psi on the rear. That’s for a rig that’s built to be run hard and fast. The pressures don’t relate since they’re 225/75R16s and there’s 3000 lbs in the front and 6000 lbs out back with the rig empty. Everything about the rig is safety first... with little thought put into mileage or tire longevity.

Therefore, I’d certainly say it’s safe to run low enough to have proper contact.

Like I said, I’m not 100% certain, I do know that I run them on my truck at a helluva lot higher pressure than the big knobby tires on my 40.

Different tool for a different job.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well, The endless game of wack-a-mole continues. Walked into the garage this morning to find a new puddle on the garage floor. Closer inspection showed a couple of drops of gear oil.

Looking up under the truck, the source was obvious - there is the drip, hanging off that lower rib.

At this point I was praying that the cruiser gods would be merciful and have it leak from the back of the case somewhere where I could get to it.

They were not...

Looks like the leak is coming from that random freeze plug, now wedged between the transfercase and transmission, just above the mounting bolt in this picture.

Any thoughts on how one could easily address this leak? It was only a couple drops, as far as I could see, so if the only option is really dropping the whole case, which I suspect it is, I may let it leak.

Still - infuriating that I can’t seem to go more than a couple hundred miles without some new puddle forming.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

That's rust prevention.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

That's rust prevention.

Need to watch out for that sneaky aluminum rust...

 

[1Fine40]

"Still - infuriating that I can’t seem to go more than a couple hundred miles without some new puddle forming."

Heh, heh, it's a Cruiser...just marking the territory so no one else moves in!! They all do it as far as I have had experience...I just consider
it a function of the beasts! .. Synthetic oil is the worst, Dino slightly less..
I was told by someone on this list that using Toyota FPIG was the way to eliminate drips, but I have not confirmed that or tried it. I just use a metal drip pan and wipe it off every so often..

 

[reddingcruiser]

Winter is just around the corner. The colder weather will slow the leak a little.

Just lookin' for the silver lining

 

[archie73]

Still - infuriating that I can’t seem to go more than a couple hundred miles without some new puddle forming.

I pulled my transfer, because my adapter plate came loose and purged onto my driveway. Rebuilt the transfer, because both outputs were leaking. Took three weeks to get done. Now the parking brake is dragging (but it working!!!!) and the fuel pump(s) are giving up the ghost(s). It’s still putting a smile on my face and I’m still buying parts...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I pulled my transfer, because my adapter plate came loose and purged onto my driveway. Rebuilt the transfer, because both outputs were leaking. Took three weeks to get done. Now the parking brake is dragging (but it working!!!!) and the fuel pump(s) are giving up the ghost(s). It’s still putting a smile on my face and I’m still buying parts...

Yeah my parking brake has two settings - dragging, and “barely holds on a level surface.”

I’m having a good time driving it but I hate repeating work. I don’t mind buying NEW parts to replace OLD parts but I hate buying NEW parts to replace NEW parts.

 

[archie73]

Yeah my parking brake has two settings - dragging, and “barely holds on a level surface.”

Before the rebuild my brake was useless, the output leak had saturated the pads and drum to the point of almost no friction. Now I can only pull it out a couple clicks and it’ll hold on a steep grade. It drags, but I’ll take it.

I’m having a good time driving it but I hate repeating work. I don’t mind buying NEW parts to replace OLD parts but I hate buying NEW parts to replace NEW parts.

This will be my second electric fuel pump and third mechanical. I’ve put two different electric fans on the radiator. I need to reweld my engine mounts before Moab in October. I’ve only had it on the road since April!!!
The list never ends. Part of the joy/hassle of building to your taste and not OEM. You gotta re-engineer everything until it works. Oh and then there’s the fact that every part is 40 years old.

 

[mrboatman]

Those disc`s can be tricky to get the correct expansion to seal I have seen some put some gasket sealer on them also and even RTV on the outside of them. Don`t look like a real bad leak overtime it could be a self healer when enough dirt gets caked on the outside of it.
JP