Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

Those disc`s can be tricky to get the correct expansion to seal I have seen some put some gasket sealer on them also and even RTV on the outside of them. Don`t look like a real bad leak overtime it could be a self healer when enough dirt gets caked on the outside of it.
JP

If the gap was about 1/4” wider I could get in there with a can of brake cleaner, hose off the oil and shove some RTV around the edges to see if it would seal up. It is (as far as I can tell) a very slow leak, and my guess is that it only leaks when the oil is hot/thinner. As with any leak, I’m surprised it would take this long to start leaking if the seal wasn’t good from the getgo but I’m sure there has been a lot of metal expansion/contraction since then.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

No progress really - I’ve been driving it when I can and chasing weeps around the transfercase. I retorqued almost every bolt I could reach and found most of the nose-cone and shift pod bolts were loose. Oddly, the rear ring where the AA trans mount connects was still nice and secure (common leak point).

I also expect my intake gaskets are leaking oil again, though this time I’ll a start with the valve covers to be sure if I start seeing puddles again.

A little sneak preview of what’s to come:

I ordered these from Real Steel Cruiser Parts and they literally showed up in a week.

At first glance they look really good. Hopefully they fit up nicely as well.

The only descrapancy I can find is a slightly less extreme “bump” at the lower rear door corners at the weatherstripping channel:

OEM:

Real Steel:

The corner bump appears to have been hand-peened, not stamped like the original, which explains the differences at each corner, but I don’t anticipate it being a problem. Overall very impressed!

 

[archie73]

Could I get a measurement of the height and width of the tailgate?

 

[pb4ugo]

X2, I plan on making a similar order to yours except getting the drop down version. I'd like to see the tailgate in your rear opening, when you get a chance.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

X2, I plan on making a similar order to yours except getting the drop down version. I'd like to see the tailgate in your rear opening, when you get a chance.

Pretty sure I’d have to take the ambulance doors off to make that wish come true - I got the bolt on version so there are tabs that will overlap the ambulance door hinges.

Could I get a measurement of the height and width of the tailgate?

This I will be able to do, as soon as I get a free second.

 

[brian]

the problem with the rs tailgates is the two sheets are not overlapped and seam sealed.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

the problem with the rs tailgates is the two sheets are not overlapped and seam sealed.

I did notice that - any thought on a solution? I’ve never used seam sealer, but I wonder if I could run a very thin bead of seam sealer around it (push it into the gap a bit) before paint to seal it up. Really, it’s a summer vehicle mostly and if the tailgate is on, the roof will be off, so there’s a good chance the tailgate won’t see much moisture anyway.

 

[tlc762]

the problem with the rs tailgates is the two sheets are not overlapped and seam sealed.

Do you mean the bottom patches for the ambulance doors or the bolt in tailgate? I would expect the door patches to be un finished to allow you to weld them in first from each side then overlap and seal the seams. But what do I know...

 

[brian]

I did notice that - any thought on a solution?

Weld.
Any rain will find it's way in there.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Weld.
Any rain will find it's way in there.

Considered that but thought I’d end up with a really uneven line across the top once the welding/grinding was done.

Do you mean the bottom patches for the ambulance doors or the bolt in tailgate? I would expect the door patches to be un finished to allow you to weld them in first from each side then overlap and seal the seams. But what do I know...

No the door patches are designed to fit together with an overlap you can weld and seal. Brian was referring to the tailgate - the front and rear face are flat up against each other and don’t overlap.

 

[Vae Victus]

Ok, so I'm reading your thread, and thinking to myself, "How does Rick compare his "rebuild" project to mine? We are both at 5+ years, yet here he is driving his, and I'm welding floor pans into the shell of my truck body."

I think we need to redefine "project" or "rebuild" here Rick!!

 

[velillen]

Ill be curious to see how the RS stuff works out. Been eyeing them for mine once I get back into it after way to long

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ok, so I'm reading your thread, and thinking to myself, "How does Rick compare his "rebuild" project to mine? We are both at 5+ years, yet here he is driving his, and I'm welding floor pans into the shell of my truck body."

I think we need to redefine "project" or "rebuild" here Rick!!

Haha different means to the same end I think. For what it’s worth, I never set out for this truck to be a frame-off restoration. My goal was to give a banged up and abused FJ40 a new lease on life. The tub is remarkably rust free. As I move into the bodywork portion of the build, I will likely approach it in segments. Top and doors will come first since these can be tackled while keeping the truck on the road.

The goal is a “rolling Resto” to the best of my limited abilities. Yours will probably be nicer in the long run, but I get to drive mine while I work on it!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ill be curious to see how the RS stuff works out. Been eyeing them for mine once I get back into it after way to long

Me too! I’m still debating if I should grab quarter panels. The rear sill I’ll get from @Awl_TEQ here if the time comes. I started a whole thread on how far I should take the bodywork - but it boils down to a matter of opinion. My hard top and doors are shot so those are a no-brainer. The tub and sill aren’t perfect, but they are remarkably good.

A dent and some paint cracking here (probably rust)

The rest is pretty ok.

At the rate things are going it will be years before I finish the top and doors, I figure I’ll reasses the tub then and see how things have progressed.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Could I get a measurement of the height and width of the tailgate?

X2, I plan on making a similar order to yours except getting the drop down version. I'd like to see the tailgate in your rear opening, when you get a chance.

Guys - sorry I was slow getting this to you -

Measurement to the outside of the mounting brackets is 46 1/4”

Measurement on the tailgate edge-to-edge is 41 7/16”

Height edge to edge is 15 3/8”

And here is a better shot of the seam @brian was mentioning. The front plate and rear cover are butted up against one another leaving a gap:

Obviously the “right way” to do this is to weld all the way around but I can’t see how i would do this and maintain a clean line around the edge of the gate. I’m wondering if jamming some JB weld, seam sealer, or filler in there would seal it up well enough...

 

[brian]

And here is a better shot of the seam @brian was mentioning.

Obviously the “right way” to do this is to weld all the way around but I can’t see how i would do this and maintain a clean line around the edge of the gate. I’m wondering if jamming some JB weld, seam sealer, or filler in there would seal it up well enough...

I have both the tail gate and the foo tailgate....they are both the same other than the tailgate proper have some holes with weld nuts inside.
By no means is this a dis just pointing out real world observations.
The mounting tabs and license plate bracket need attention as well.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

@brian certainly not interpreted as a dis, I entirely agree it's something that will need attention. Just concerned with my welding skills I'd end up with some really wavy edges. I suppose I could weld, then clamp a straightedge to it to grind against to bring it back down to flat. The tabs and brackets seem like they could be seam-sealed.

 

[Vae Victus]

@brian certainly not interpreted as a dis, I entirely agree it's something that will need attention. Just concerned with my welding skills I'd end up with some really wavy edges. I suppose I could weld, then clamp a straightedge to it to grind against to bring it back down to flat. The tabs and brackets seem like they could be seam-sealed.

You might get someone to TIG weld it. With such close gaps, that would do a nice job and would be much cooler welding process, and much neater.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

You might get someone to TIG weld it. With such close gaps, that would do a nice job and would be much cooler welding process, and much neater.

I could...or I could just cram some JB weld or seam sealer in there and paint it it would probably keep the water out...Not sure how long it would last, but I'd definitely get a smoother edge.

 

[Jdc1]

I could...or I could just cram some JB weld or seam sealer in there and paint it it would probably keep the water out...Not sure how long it would last, but I'd definitely get a smoother edge.

I like the seam sealer idea, you could go even further on the overkill and try a panel adhesive......