- Thread starter
- #41
Now I really need some help. Last night, I opened the sliding cover to the sunroof and could hear a rattle. I had noticed that one of the brackets that holds the trim box for the sunroof controls was broken.
Builds The Baba Yaga Build
- Thread starter spc7669
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- Thread starter
- #42
I straightened the metal piece with some pliers and stack wrapped some Kevlar fishing line around the clip and busted plastic.
It works for now, but when I do the sunroof repair, I would like to replace the trim box containing the lights and switches. Does anyone know the best place to get one outside of a junkyard?
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Look at the back side and it should have the part number. Looks at places like Partsouq or ToyotaPartsDeal online.
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- #44
I looked and found it on Partsouq, but it says no longer available. It’ll hold for right now. If anyone knows a good junkyard to find one out of a wreck, I would definitely appreciate it. The other option would be to have a custom box fabbed up to replace the factory one. This would probably be spendy, but I would figure a way to replace those plastic pyramids and clips with bolts. Again, if anyone knows of a custom switch box fabricator, I may well need their services.
- Thread starter
- #45
So all the parts have arrived. My daughter is getting married on Friday and it’s raining so hard in Alabama right now I’ve started counting pairs of animals and building an ark.
I’m dropping the Cruiser off at my mechanic to do the suspension and fluid baseline. There’s no way I can even attempt it for a couple weeks. We’ve got more rain coming for another week at least.
I’ve noticed the engine sputters at low speeds and doesn’t have much power when starting off. To hopefully address this, I’m planning my second round of repairs:
-Replace fuel filter
-Clean throttle body
-Replace Spark Plugs
-Replace Coil Packs
If this doesn’t work, I will probably replace the exhaust from the cat back since it appears to be rusty and original. If I missed anything, please throw any ideas my way.
Thank you all for your help so far.
- Thread starter
- #46
Mechanic called. Said Kurt’s suspension kit was complete and the parts were high quality. He did throw two problems my way:
1-The ABS light is on. He said the code is for a speed sensor on the right front. He has replaced that sensor three times in the last 12 months for the prior owner. The current sensor is OEM. I expect it could be a wiring issue. Anyone else experiencing this or have a fix?
2-He says there is a little play in the driveshaft. I am not opposed to replacing it. Camelback didn’t show an OEM shaft available. Anybody have a recommendation on aftermarket/reman models? Rock Auto has a Cardone for a bit over 300 bucks.
1-The ABS light is on. He said the code is for a speed sensor on the right front. He has replaced that sensor three times in the last 12 months for the prior owner. The current sensor is OEM. I expect it could be a wiring issue. Anyone else experiencing this or have a fix?
2-He says there is a little play in the driveshaft. I am not opposed to replacing it. Camelback didn’t show an OEM shaft available. Anybody have a recommendation on aftermarket/reman models? Rock Auto has a Cardone for a bit over 300 bucks.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Make sure that you are not limiting yourself in your searches for parts. Plug the part number into ye ole' google interwebz and see what comes back. ToyotaPartsDeal has been good for me to get parts here in the US.
As for used stuff, check the classifieds in the PART OUT section to see if anyone has one... I purchased a small part from Stephen McMurdie at JapaneseAutoPartsInc (he posted a rig in the part out section) and he was pretty easy to work with and part was nice and as described. Email back and forth with them was a bit delayed so may be better to call them. They are in Colorado if I remember correctly, there are a few salvage yards specific to LCs there as well as guys like Cruiser Yard and whatnot.
As for used stuff, check the classifieds in the PART OUT section to see if anyone has one... I purchased a small part from Stephen McMurdie at JapaneseAutoPartsInc (he posted a rig in the part out section) and he was pretty easy to work with and part was nice and as described. Email back and forth with them was a bit delayed so may be better to call them. They are in Colorado if I remember correctly, there are a few salvage yards specific to LCs there as well as guys like Cruiser Yard and whatnot.
- Thread starter
- #48
After doing a ton of reading on Mud over the last few days, here are some updates.
-I stopped by the garage and looked her over with Kurt's suspension installed. Holy smoke does it ever look good. I should have some pics later this week.
-I ordered an entire new set of Denso coil packs. I checked the service records, and the current plugs in the truck are the OEM iridium installed by a dealership. They have 37,000 miles on them and my understanding is they will go 120,000, so I couldn't justify changing those. The service records also show that at least half the coil packs have been changed at one time or another. I'll have my mechanic save any that look good to go in the garage for spares. The fuel filter will be changed and the throttle body will be cleaned at the same time the coil packs go in. Hopefully, this fixes the semi-crappy idle and lack of power going up hills. If there is no improvement, I'll be coming back to the good people here for some more ideas.
-I believe that the recurring speed sensor problem could be related to the brake system. While I understand that is the boogeyman on these vehicles, it's got to be handled. Since the front brakes were already due for replacement, I ordered OEM pads and rotors. I will also order stainless brake lines from Slee tomorrow. That will be where the brake repairs start since it's low hanging fruit. I'll also have the system bled and the sensor tested to see if it's fried.
Currently, the brakes are pretty unimpressive. I understand I do not currently have ABS due to the sensor code. As old as the vehicle is and with high mileage, it may be time for the 3000.00 system replacement. I'm not pumped about that, but it is what it is. I have no desire to waste time chasing rabbits and doing stop-gap fixes. The question I have for you all relates to several threads related to a replacement brake system having a lifetime warranty from Toyota. If this does exist, is it required installation by the dealer? I have the option of going to ACC Garage in Atlanta to have the work done. I would honestly trust them far more than a dealer, but if the warranty required dealer install, that's the way I would want to go.
I know I keep saying it, but thank you for the information provided here. It's pretty incredible.
-I stopped by the garage and looked her over with Kurt's suspension installed. Holy smoke does it ever look good. I should have some pics later this week.
-I ordered an entire new set of Denso coil packs. I checked the service records, and the current plugs in the truck are the OEM iridium installed by a dealership. They have 37,000 miles on them and my understanding is they will go 120,000, so I couldn't justify changing those. The service records also show that at least half the coil packs have been changed at one time or another. I'll have my mechanic save any that look good to go in the garage for spares. The fuel filter will be changed and the throttle body will be cleaned at the same time the coil packs go in. Hopefully, this fixes the semi-crappy idle and lack of power going up hills. If there is no improvement, I'll be coming back to the good people here for some more ideas.
-I believe that the recurring speed sensor problem could be related to the brake system. While I understand that is the boogeyman on these vehicles, it's got to be handled. Since the front brakes were already due for replacement, I ordered OEM pads and rotors. I will also order stainless brake lines from Slee tomorrow. That will be where the brake repairs start since it's low hanging fruit. I'll also have the system bled and the sensor tested to see if it's fried.
Currently, the brakes are pretty unimpressive. I understand I do not currently have ABS due to the sensor code. As old as the vehicle is and with high mileage, it may be time for the 3000.00 system replacement. I'm not pumped about that, but it is what it is. I have no desire to waste time chasing rabbits and doing stop-gap fixes. The question I have for you all relates to several threads related to a replacement brake system having a lifetime warranty from Toyota. If this does exist, is it required installation by the dealer? I have the option of going to ACC Garage in Atlanta to have the work done. I would honestly trust them far more than a dealer, but if the warranty required dealer install, that's the way I would want to go.
I know I keep saying it, but thank you for the information provided here. It's pretty incredible.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
For the brakes, have your mechanic do the accumulator test and see if it is causing issues. My understanding is that you pump the pedal like 40 times with the car off to evacuate the system, pop the hood and then turn the truck to the ON position. This will fire up the brake accumulator pump and if there is lots of noise you know the system is on its ways out.
Otherwise you may be able to have your mechanic pull the pump assembly, remove the pump and rebuild it as some have had luck with that.
Otherwise you may be able to have your mechanic pull the pump assembly, remove the pump and rebuild it as some have had luck with that.
What year is your truck? Can you post a picture of your whole overhead console? I may have the part you need.
- Thread starter
- #51
My truck is a 99. The overhead console is the one with two map lights, sunroof control buttons, and the flip down for a garage door opener. I’ll send better pics of the whole console as soon as I pick it up from the garage.
RE: radiator replacement. On my ‘97 I replaced the whole coolant system at 150k miles “just to be safe.” Then I watched my uncle rack up 325k miles and counting on original system on his 80, no problem. So on my next rig, a ‘99 with 250k on it, when a mechanic buddy suggested I replace the radiator “just to be safe,” I just laughed.... “fool me once,” and all that. 5k miles later, it puked all over the freeway. So luckily yours has been replaced, but always good to keep an eye on that business.
- Thread starter
- #53
Yep. If it can leave me stranded, I’m going to have it replaced as PM.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
There is an amount of inspection though that goes along with that. If other items around it and attached to it are failing that would show the item was/is not well taken care of … then yes it should be a "just to be safe". Otherwise you are throwing money at something that doesn't need to be.
That would be like grabbing a 2000-2001 LC and replacing the tranny "just to be safe" even though it shows no signs of going. They are the ones that have the noted bad builds, but it was limited.
But, if you got money burning a hole in your pocket, might as well.
That would be like grabbing a 2000-2001 LC and replacing the tranny "just to be safe" even though it shows no signs of going. They are the ones that have the noted bad builds, but it was limited.
But, if you got money burning a hole in your pocket, might as well.
- Thread starter
- #55
The heater T replacement turned out to be a good idea...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah usually those are. And not a hard or expensive job. Plus they normally show that it is needed (e.g. pink crust around end of hoses, or other visible signs).
- Thread starter
- #57
I have understand the brake system is a money pit and monster job. I’m going to go through the service records again, but as far as I can tell, it has never been bled, flushed, or anything else. At 21 years old and 280k, it has performed past what anyone could reasonably expect. When I’m done, I want to feel confident jumping in the truck and going. I’d rather get it out of the way now than have it go out on a trip and have to waste that time dealing with it.
I don’t exactly have money burning a hole in my pocket, but since I haven’t bought a car since 2001, my initial budget for this build was 10k. There is room for the brake system work, probably at the expense of getting the paint refreshed this year.
- Thread starter
- #58
- Thread starter
- #59
So I went by the garage yesterday to drop off some parts.
Kurt’s stock ride height suspension is perfect. I couldn’t be happier with it.
Good news:
The fluids in the radiator, front diff, and transfer case all looked good. I fired it up in the parking lot. The idle is definitely smoother just from putting quality fluids in it.
Bad news:
1-The fluid in the rear diff was bad. He described it as nasty chia pet mix. It has fresh Mobil synthetic, so I’ll run it 10k, drain and fill again, and note any improvementIf the diff starts giving problems, it’ll be off to ACC for a rebuild.
2-There is a bit of smoke on a cold start. It didn’t smell sweet and my mechanic said he does not think it’s a head gasket. He thinks it’s a bad injector. Since new injectors were a part of the phase 2 repairs I was going to do, I’m going to order a new set of Denso this weekend and go ahead and have them installed. Based on my reading on here, I also ordered a fuel pressure regulator to go in with the injectors.
He will do the accumulator motor test on the brakes when he installs the stainless Slee lines next week. That should give me a good idea of the condition of that system.
After I pick the truck up, I’ll post detailed pics and a parts list with vendors and cost to hopefully benefit the next guy down the road.
Kurt’s stock ride height suspension is perfect. I couldn’t be happier with it.
Good news:
The fluids in the radiator, front diff, and transfer case all looked good. I fired it up in the parking lot. The idle is definitely smoother just from putting quality fluids in it.
Bad news:
1-The fluid in the rear diff was bad. He described it as nasty chia pet mix. It has fresh Mobil synthetic, so I’ll run it 10k, drain and fill again, and note any improvementIf the diff starts giving problems, it’ll be off to ACC for a rebuild.
2-There is a bit of smoke on a cold start. It didn’t smell sweet and my mechanic said he does not think it’s a head gasket. He thinks it’s a bad injector. Since new injectors were a part of the phase 2 repairs I was going to do, I’m going to order a new set of Denso this weekend and go ahead and have them installed. Based on my reading on here, I also ordered a fuel pressure regulator to go in with the injectors.
He will do the accumulator motor test on the brakes when he installs the stainless Slee lines next week. That should give me a good idea of the condition of that system.
After I pick the truck up, I’ll post detailed pics and a parts list with vendors and cost to hopefully benefit the next guy down the road.
- Thread starter
- #60
I apologize in advance there are no pictures in this post. I picked the Cruiser up today and thought I'd update what's been done.
-Oil Change: Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w 30 and Napa Gold Filter
-Driveshaft Lubed
-Tires Rotated
-Heater T's Replaced with stainless and worm clamps replaced with Breeze Constant Torque stainless
-Radiator drained and refilled with Toyota pink coolant
-Front Differential drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Transfer Case drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Rear Differential drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Suspension replaced with the stock ride height kit from Cruiser Outfitters
Torsion Bars, Front Shocks and Bushings, Front Sway Bar D Bushings, Front Sway Bar End Links, Front Sway Bar Cushions, Rear Shocks and Bushings, Coil Springs, Rear Sway Bar D Bushings, Rear Sway Bar Links
-Rear Propeller Shaft replaced with OEM
-Alignment
-Front Brakes and Rotors replaced with OEM
-Front Axle Seals replaced
-Front Wheel Bearings repacked
-All Brake Lines replaced with the Slee stainless kit
-Fuel Filter replaced with OEM
-Throttle Body cleaned
-Fuel Injector Pressure Sensor replaced with OEM
-All 8 Coil Packs replaced with OEM
-All 8 Fuel Injectors replaced with Dirty Deeds 12 hole model
The good: I drove it after pick up today for about 50 miles. The engine is much quieter with no rattle and no smoke. The perceived acceleration and power is incredible. It was a slug the day I drove it home. Not any more. The new suspension also took out all of the body sway I originally felt.
The bad: The ABS light is still on throwing the speed sensor code after replacing the brakes, rotors, lines, seals, and cleaning the sensor. Since this is the 3rd sensor in a year, I don't believe that is the problem. I had a similar problem on my Tacoma involving a catalytic converter code. I spent a couple grand replacing stuff and ending up going with the nuclear option and installing an O2 simulator. The nuclear option in this case will be pulling the bulb for the ABS light out of the dash panel. I've read a ton on here about speed sensor problems and don't know anything else to do but start replacing brake system parts until the whole thing is new.
I don't care for the tires at all. They are loud and don't ride particularly well. They are BFG KO2's with less than 10000 miles on them. I think I'll put them up for sale and go back with Michelin AT's which I had on my Tacoma and liked quite a bit. I hoped the suspension refresh would quiet them down some but no dice.
Things to do in the next phase:
-Install carpet kit from Tupelo Honey
-Drain and fill transmission
-Replace front driver seat gears with Gamiviti kit
-Treat the interior with Leatherique
-Replace all interior lights with LEDs
-Install a Gamiviti roof rack for hauling my kayak and paddleboard
-Repair the leather in the driver's seat and the driver's side door panel
-Replace the driver's side window motor
-Remove the wood trim from the interior
-Install a Dissent rear bumper
-Refresh the paint
The weather here is calling for rain for the next 6 days, so I won't be able to do much. Hopefully, I'll get some pics up in the near future. Thanks to all for the advice and help so far.
-Oil Change: Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w 30 and Napa Gold Filter
-Driveshaft Lubed
-Tires Rotated
-Heater T's Replaced with stainless and worm clamps replaced with Breeze Constant Torque stainless
-Radiator drained and refilled with Toyota pink coolant
-Front Differential drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Transfer Case drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Rear Differential drained and filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w 90 gear lube
-Suspension replaced with the stock ride height kit from Cruiser Outfitters
Torsion Bars, Front Shocks and Bushings, Front Sway Bar D Bushings, Front Sway Bar End Links, Front Sway Bar Cushions, Rear Shocks and Bushings, Coil Springs, Rear Sway Bar D Bushings, Rear Sway Bar Links
-Rear Propeller Shaft replaced with OEM
-Alignment
-Front Brakes and Rotors replaced with OEM
-Front Axle Seals replaced
-Front Wheel Bearings repacked
-All Brake Lines replaced with the Slee stainless kit
-Fuel Filter replaced with OEM
-Throttle Body cleaned
-Fuel Injector Pressure Sensor replaced with OEM
-All 8 Coil Packs replaced with OEM
-All 8 Fuel Injectors replaced with Dirty Deeds 12 hole model
The good: I drove it after pick up today for about 50 miles. The engine is much quieter with no rattle and no smoke. The perceived acceleration and power is incredible. It was a slug the day I drove it home. Not any more. The new suspension also took out all of the body sway I originally felt.
The bad: The ABS light is still on throwing the speed sensor code after replacing the brakes, rotors, lines, seals, and cleaning the sensor. Since this is the 3rd sensor in a year, I don't believe that is the problem. I had a similar problem on my Tacoma involving a catalytic converter code. I spent a couple grand replacing stuff and ending up going with the nuclear option and installing an O2 simulator. The nuclear option in this case will be pulling the bulb for the ABS light out of the dash panel. I've read a ton on here about speed sensor problems and don't know anything else to do but start replacing brake system parts until the whole thing is new.
I don't care for the tires at all. They are loud and don't ride particularly well. They are BFG KO2's with less than 10000 miles on them. I think I'll put them up for sale and go back with Michelin AT's which I had on my Tacoma and liked quite a bit. I hoped the suspension refresh would quiet them down some but no dice.
Things to do in the next phase:
-Install carpet kit from Tupelo Honey
-Drain and fill transmission
-Replace front driver seat gears with Gamiviti kit
-Treat the interior with Leatherique
-Replace all interior lights with LEDs
-Install a Gamiviti roof rack for hauling my kayak and paddleboard
-Repair the leather in the driver's seat and the driver's side door panel
-Replace the driver's side window motor
-Remove the wood trim from the interior
-Install a Dissent rear bumper
-Refresh the paint
The weather here is calling for rain for the next 6 days, so I won't be able to do much. Hopefully, I'll get some pics up in the near future. Thanks to all for the advice and help so far.
