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That escalated quickly 👍

Nice looking cruiser you picked up. Seems like you are on the right track with the preventative maintenance.
I just got the invoice from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. Here's the parts list:
1 pair of OME Torsion Bars
2 OEM Front Shocks with Bushings
1 pair of OME 2865 coil springs
2 OEM Rear Shocks with Bushings
2 Sway Bar Front D Bushings
2 Front Sway Bar End Links
4 Rubber Front Sway Bar Cushions
2 Sway Bar Rear D Bushings
2 Rear Sway Bar Links with Bushings

If there is anything else I need to get to bring the suspension up to par, please throw out your suggestions.
 
I managed to get the title and registration taken care of today. It was much better than it could've been, but pretty much wasted time. I did send Tupelo Honey an inquiry about replacement carpet and lined up the same upholstery shop to put it in with the seat repair.
Eating the elephant one bite at a time.
 
I just got the invoice from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. Here's the parts list:
1 pair of OME Torsion Bars
2 OEM Front Shocks with Bushings
1 pair of OME 2865 coil springs
2 OEM Rear Shocks with Bushings
2 Sway Bar Front D Bushings
2 Front Sway Bar End Links
4 Rubber Front Sway Bar Cushions
2 Sway Bar Rear D Bushings
2 Rear Sway Bar Links with Bushings

If there is anything else I need to get to bring the suspension up to par, please throw out your suggestions.
Looks like the exact suspension that is one my rig. Grab yourself a socket to allow for adjustment of the bolts that adjust the torsion bars (think it is 32mm). But suspension wise, you should be good. Keep an eye on your axles/boots to ensure they do not start leaking/weeping with the new lift. If they do, it may be time to either reboot (if OEM) or get new axles that can withstand the lift.

Question, with the lift supplied by Kurt, did they mention anything about doing/needing the diff drop?
 
Looks like the exact suspension that is one my rig. Grab yourself a socket to allow for adjustment of the bolts that adjust the torsion bars (think it is 32mm). But suspension wise, you should be good. Keep an eye on your axles/boots to ensure they do not start leaking/weeping with the new lift. If they do, it may be time to either reboot (if OEM) or get new axles that can withstand the lift.

Question, with the lift supplied by Kurt, did they mention anything about doing/needing the diff drop?
No need for a diff drop according to Bryce at Cruiser Outfitters. The package I got should be very close to factory ride height. I do expect to get 1-2 inches of lift initially due to the age and miles on my suspension.
 
Just hit a minor snag. I followed the directions on the FAQ page and went to Camelback Toyota online to order 4 drain plug gaskets for the diffs and 2 for the transfer case. They want over 27 bucks to ship $7.26 worth of parts. I'll be glad to support a vendor on here if they are available. If not, I'll go to the local dealership tomorrow.
 
Pretty sure that the crush washer is the same for all the diffs (front, rear and center). This is what I ordered and have only gotten to the front so far. This is for my 98 so double-check that it fits your year (pretty sure but not 100%).
And when searching for parts, I usually just google the part number and see who shows up. Partsouq.com is from the EU but supposedly shipping is super fast, ToyotaPartsDeal.com is US but slightly slower then Partsouq as it usually takes 1-3 days for your order to process. Prices are comparable between the two and I have had better luck with them actually having the part in stock than going to a dealership online. Just went through this with Graham Toyota where they listed as in stock and four days later after order still no update even after I sent an email asking for status update. Seven days later the charge dropped off my account and still no info from them, calling or email, so I just sent another email saying to cancel order all together. Two days later I got the cancellation notice. Granted this is probably rare for most of the online sellers, but just check things before purchasing direct from a dealership.
 
Just hit a minor snag. I followed the directions on the FAQ page and went to Camelback Toyota online to order 4 drain plug gaskets for the diffs and 2 for the transfer case. They want over 27 bucks to ship $7.26 worth of parts. I'll be glad to support a vendor on here if they are available. If not, I'll go to the local dealership tomorrow.
where in AL are you? There are two very active TLCA clubs in AL, both have rides, meetings and wrenching days.

Birmingham:
Huntsville:
 
Pretty sure that the crush washer is the same for all the diffs (front, rear and center). This is what I ordered and have only gotten to the front so far. This is for my 98 so double-check that it fits your year (pretty sure but not 100%).
And when searching for parts, I usually just google the part number and see who shows up. Partsouq.com is from the EU but supposedly shipping is super fast, ToyotaPartsDeal.com is US but slightly slower then Partsouq as it usually takes 1-3 days for your order to process. Prices are comparable between the two and I have had better luck with them actually having the part in stock than going to a dealership online. Just went through this with Graham Toyota where they listed as in stock and four days later after order still no update even after I sent an email asking for status update. Seven days later the charge dropped off my account and still no info from them, calling or email, so I just sent another email saying to cancel order all together. Two days later I got the cancellation notice. Granted this is probably rare for most of the online sellers, but just check things before purchasing direct from a dealership.
From my reading on Mud, I thought I needed the following:
(4) Drain Gasket Plugs, Toyota Part Number 12157-10010. I think these are for the diffs.
(2) Drain Gasket Plugs, Toyota Part Number 90430-18008. These were for the transfer case.

If these aren't the correct parts, please let me know. I got them from the FAQ page for the 100 series.

Thank you for the help.
 
From my reading on Mud, I thought I needed the following:
(4) Drain Gasket Plugs, Toyota Part Number 12157-10010. I think these are for the diffs.
(2) Drain Gasket Plugs, Toyota Part Number 90430-18008. These were for the transfer case.

If these aren't the correct parts, please let me know. I got them from the FAQ page for the 100 series.

Thank you for the help.
Using your link above, I ordered 10 packs of each gasket above off Amazon for just under 30 bucks. I have a buddy here at work with an 01 LX. I'll hook him up with the ones he needs for my cost. Good deal for everyone.
 
2-Refresh the suspension. It rides like a rubber duck in a hurricane. My current plan after doing a ton of reading on Mud is to go with OEM shocks all the way around with OME 2865 coils and new sway bar links and bushings.
What I need to know from the experts is should I replace the torsion bars as well? I don't mind doing it if it's a good idea. If so, which bars should I choose with the above suspension parts?

I recently did this project for our 2000 and 2001. I would recommend OEM all the way around like you are planning. New sway bar links and bushings are a good idea. Unless the torsion bars are damaged, I would suggest completing the shocks, springs and sways as one project and then assess from there if you want to do anything else.

For parts, I recommend going to Olathe, Camelback or McGeorge online and get your parts list together. Take the parts list, with pricing, to your local dealer. Ask them to match the pricing, they may be willing to work with you. Mine was.

A couple of suggestions I have from the work: Purchase a flex head ratchet wrench like the Gearwrench 22mm to help with the rear shock top nuts. Get a couple of packs of Sawz All blades and cut out the rear shocks, just below the shock tower mount. This will greatly speed up the removal.

The Toyota parts are weird. The shocks and sway bar links come with replacement bushings, but not with replacement retainers/washers. The parts diagram can be confusing to wade through and figure it out. There are 2 different washers for each shock. One has a retaining lip to keep the washer and shock tower from floating around inside the shock mount. The Sway link has the same kind of setup. Take care to pay attention to the assembly order of the retainers/washers when you're taking the old ones out so you know which ones go where when putting the new ones back in.
 
If you are not installing any weight on the front of the truck (bumper? winch? lights? second battery?) the OME torsion bars might result in a very stiff ride. It's a matter of personal preference, you might like it or not.
I'd install everything else and ride the truck for a couple of days, see if you like the ride with the original TBs. If you are still curious, you can then install the OME torsion bars and compare.
 
If you are not installing any weight on the front of the truck (bumper? winch? lights? second battery?) the OME torsion bars might result in a very stiff ride. It's a matter of personal preference, you might like it or not.
I'd install everything else and ride the truck for a couple of days, see if you like the ride with the original TBs. If you are still curious, you can then install the OME torsion bars and compare.
A front bumper may happen down the road. I would like to tell you way down the road but I make no promises. I dream about this damn truck when I go to bed at night.
 
A front bumper may happen down the road. I would like to tell you way down the road but I make no promises. I dream about this damn truck when I go to bed at night.
To my extreme surprise, while reviewing the paperwork, the timing belt service with water pump, both UCAs with ball joints, and both LCAs with ball joints were installed at 273000. That's a load of work that I don't have to worry about.

Here are some things which I do need to address in the near future:

1-Baseline the fluids.
I'm changing to Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil as the prior owner used conventional. I have Mobil in all my vehicles and am a big fan. I plan to drain and fill the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case and replace with Mobil synthetic as well.

2-Refresh the suspension. It rides like a rubber duck in a hurricane. My current plan after doing a ton of reading on Mud is to go with OEM shocks all the way around with OME 2865 coils and new sway bar links and bushings.
What I need to know from the experts is should I replace the torsion bars as well? I don't mind doing it if it's a good idea. If so, which bars should I choose with the above suspension parts?

3-As far as I can tell, the radiator and hoses are original. As a matter of preventative maintenance, I plan to replace the radiator, hoses, and alternator (if I can't find paperwork showing it's not original) all at one time. I understand the alternator will be much easier to access with the radiator out of the vehicle.

4-The driver side window shrieks like a banshee. I'll try to get it cleaned or replace the motor.
After further review of the service records, the original owner changed the radiator in 2012 at 176000 miles. So it’s 8 years old with 103000 on it. It looks pretty clean.The top and bottom hoses are a year old with 7000 on them. I may forego replacing any of these parts until about 325000, which would be 150000 on the parts.
Does anyone think I should replace them anyway?
I will absolutely drain and fill the radiator with the appropriate coolant when the fluids get baselined.
 
I wouldn't worry about the Radiator or hoses. If there are no cracks or signs of dry rot let it go. Use the money for stuff that needs baselining.
 
I wouldn't worry about the Radiator or hoses. If there are no cracks or signs of dry rot let it go. Use the money for stuff that needs baselining.
Absolutely. Since I saved quite a bit of money not replacing the radiator, I’ll move on down the list. The battery is 4 years old. I’ve read good reviews of the Odyssey brand on Mud, but I don’t see the one mentioned on here in their current line up. Some of the threads I saw were a bit old. Are they still worth the extra expense? If they will go 8-10 years they are actually no more than the two batteries you’d have to buy from Auto Zone in the same time frame.
 
Absolutely. Since I saved quite a bit of money not replacing the radiator, I’ll move on down the list. The battery is 4 years old. I’ve read good reviews of the Odyssey brand on Mud, but I don’t see the one mentioned on here in their current line up. Some of the threads I saw were a bit old. Are they still worth the extra expense? If they will go 8-10 years they are actually no more than the two batteries you’d have to buy from Auto Zone in the same time frame.
I managed to get the title and registration taken care of today. It was much better than it could've been, but pretty much wasted time. I did send Tupelo Honey an inquiry about replacement carpet and lined up the same upholstery shop to put it in with the seat repair.
Eating the elephant one bite at a time.
The weather here is wet and cold today. Since I don’t have a garage to work in, I took care of an eyesore that I could deal with from inside the cab. 6 bucks and 10 minutes makes a huge improvement.
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