Builds The Baba Yaga Build (1 Viewer)

[spc7669]

It's not hard at all if you are not an idiot like me.
Take off the wiper arms. I painted those last week. I should've done this then but didn't think about it.
Gently tug on the cowl toward your engine. I tried to do it in the other direction. It doesn't work. Only took my dumb ass thirty tries to figure that out. There are some small ears that go under the front glass. Once they come loose, separate the cowl at it's break point in the center of the window. Lift corners out and slide the pieces out. Done.
I washed mine off with Simple Green and painted with Rustoleum black trim paint. Two coats with 20 minutes between coats.

 

[spc7669]

I forgot to add I did the drain and fill on the transmission when the second two ground wires were installed. While I was there, I had the battery tested. It showed it was good. It still had a weak start.
I went to Napa in that town and got some odds and ends and had it tested again. The second tester showed good as well.
I noticed both my mechanic and this Napa location used what looked like and old tester that showed “good” or “not good” without any actual numbers.
When I fired it up yesterday, I still had a weak start and smelled fuel. Assuming a bad fuel pump, I ordered a Denso unit from Rock Auto.
I got back in today and just barely got it to crank on the third try. Out of desperation, I drove to my local Napa. They have a digital battery tester that showed I was getting 312 cranking amps. Replaced the battery and she spun like a top. I’ll go ahead and install the fuel pump when it gets here since I believe I still have the original.
What a PITA.

 

[spc7669]

Got the interior lights changed over to Superbright LEDs

 

[spc7669]

So I'm going to order all the heater hoses. I've combed through posts on here. Some part numbers were consistent, but some were not. Here is the list I've compiled, but if anyone sees something incorrect or missing, PLEASE let me know.

99556-20200 x 3 Hose, Water
87245-6A090 x 2 Hose, Water
16-282-50040 Hose, Water By-Pass
15777-50030 Hose, Oil Cooler
87245-6A180 Hose, Heater Water, Outlet A
87245-6A190 Hose, Heater Water, Outlet B
87245-6A201 Hose, Rear Heater Water Inlet A
87245-6A210 Hose, Heater Water Inlet B
My heater T's are new, so they won't need replaced.

Thanks for any help or insight you can give.

 

[spc7669]

So the new to me Map Light Console arrived today from LC Parts Yard. Great folks to deal with! I’m keeping the old one to see if I can figure out a way to fix the busted clip with some epoxy. The install took about 5 minutes. I left the sunroof unplugged since it doesn’t work anyway.

 

[spc7669]

Does anyone know what the square hole in the console is for? I assume a garage door opener. I’m considering some kind of plug for the hole unless it can be made to be useful with something else.

 

[changingground]

Yes, garage door opener. Have you looked at BenCC’s thread? He’s got all kinds of solutions to the overhead compartmen quandary. Might have something useful for you?

 

[spc7669]

Yes, garage door opener. Have you looked at BenCC’s thread? He’s got all kinds of solutions to the overhead compartmen quandary. Might have something useful for you?

I figured out that it was for the opener. Mine doesn’t fit great. Seems like a waste of space when most openers come with a clip anyway. I’ll look up BenCC’s thread to see what can be done there.

 

[changingground]

Yeah, but who knows what Toyota was addressing with regards to garage door openers in 1999?

 

[spc7669]

Once again, I need some help.
I have new heater hoses on the way. I ordered all of them based on researching threads here. I’ll have my mechanic install them. Does anyone have an idea of how many hours a job like this would take? A guess would be fine with me. I’m trying to figure out if I’ll need to leave the truck and how much to budget for the repair.
Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[gregnash]

Once again, I need some help.
I have new heater hoses on the way. I ordered all of them based on researching threads here. I’ll have my mechanic install them. Does anyone have an idea of how many hours a job like this would take? A guess would be fine with me. I’m trying to figure out if I’ll need to leave the truck and how much to budget for the repair.
Any insight would be appreciated.

General shop rate is usually between $75-$125/hr. here in NV. I would guess that between removal, install and burping the system would be somewhere in the 4+hr. range. When I replaced a bunch of the heater hoses on my FJ60 that is about how long it took me to do the upper/lower radiator hose, couple of the "oil cooler" lines and then lines to go over the block and to the heater core. I did not replace ALL of them, but most. Also depends on how badly they are stuck to the hoses and you have to fight to get them off.

 

[spc7669]

General shop rate is usually between $75-$125/hr. here in NV. I would guess that between removal, install and burping the system would be somewhere in the 4+hr. range. When I replaced a bunch of the heater hoses on my FJ60 that is about how long it took me to do the upper/lower radiator hose, couple of the "oil cooler" lines and then lines to go over the block and to the heater core. I did not replace ALL of them, but most. Also depends on how badly they are stuck to the hoses and you have to fight to get them off.

Thanks Greg.
My shop charges $80 an hour. I’ll budget for five hours and hope to come in under that. My guy is great. I can go into the garage and pitch in and he doesn’t care at all. I’m pretty happy to get it done. It’s one of the last big things on the list that’s under the hood.

 

[spc7669]

I got the cargo area and rear fender wells covered in FatMat and the new rear carpet from Tupelo Honey installed.

This job is not complex but it is a monster PITA. The worst part, well there’s two worst parts.
The first is cleaning under the old carpet. I probably used a whole roll of shop towels and half a bottle of Simple Green.
The second is installing the FatMat. It’s tedious and I was kneeling for a long time.
BUT, I took the wife for a ride after it was done and she told me to order another roll and do the rest of the cab. It’s so much quieter.

 

[spc7669]

I got a new fuel pump installed today. The paperwork I had didn’t lie. It was the original.
I left the second row seats unbolted and stowed them in my garage. The second roll of FatMat should be here on Friday and I hope to finish the rest of the cab.

 

[spc7669]

I got my new tailgate carpet installed today, pulled out the front seats, the rest of the carpet and console and put FatMat in the front.
It was a monster cleaning job. Hopefully, I can get the new carpet in tomorrow and maybe the console back in one piece.

 

[spc7669]

I got my new tailgate carpet installed today, pulled out the front seats, the rest of the carpet and console and put FatMat in the front.
It was a monster cleaning job. Hopefully, I can get the new carpet in tomorrow and maybe the console back in one piece.
View attachment 2291214View attachment 2291215View attachment 2291218View attachment 2291220View attachment 2291224

And the rest of the carpet today-

 

[spc7669]

I’ve been searching and can’t find an answer to this problem.
My driver’s seat is stuck in the up position. Is there any fix to this besides replacing the whole seat?
I would be perfectly happy with a manual seat if such a thing existed.

 

[spc7669]

So I did a redneck repair of something that has bugged me since day 1. The stupid cover for the cup holders was broken. I tried to fix it with bolts, but nothing proved satisfactory. After I pulled the console and saw all the crud that had fallen through, I decided that door had to go and the hole had to be plugged. After a couple of hours of trial and error, I looked down and was literally standing on the solution: a piece of rubber stall mat cut to fit.

 

[spc7669]

Driver’s side front window went from screeching to much quieter after some 3M dry silicone. However it went from working with a screech to only intermittently working now. I guess I’ll order a new motor with regulator and new window run. Not exactly what I wanted to do next, but oh well.
Also, we had our first relatively hot day yesterday and the air doesn’t blow cold for some time and even then it’s not super cold. My Tacoma would give you frostbite. I’m going to my mechanic tomorrow to see if he can find a leak. I can live with the window being non-functional, but A/C in Alabama isn’t really optional.

 

[spc7669]

All the vacuum hoses got replaced today and the A/C got a fresh charge. Both the front and rear air are working just fine. No leak found, but there’s probably a slow one somewhere.