The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread

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The smaller diameter hub makes for a significant increase in blade width, about 3mm over stock.
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The flip side of a smaller hub (and the reason OEM's don't do it) is the weaker blade attachment and higher chance of a hub rupture. It's worth considering both sides if you want to run high boost.
 
The flip side of a smaller hub (and the reason OEM's don't do it) is the weaker blade attachment and higher chance of a hub rupture. It's worth considering both sides if you want to run high boost.

What would you consider high boost? I'm still running the stock fuel pump and no intercooler so I won't be pushing it too much at this stage.

I can imagine that the increased blade length could also see more flex during operation which would mean increased fatigue, how much would actually occur is a bit hard to guess. Tapering the blade thickness out closer in to the hub would probably help too.

My 80 will get the biggest power boost it's ever had this week when I swap it's 33's for my 55's 7.50r16s on splitties!
 
What would you consider high boost? I'm still running the stock fuel pump and no intercooler so I won't be pushing it too much at this stage.

I can imagine that the increased blade length could also see more flex during operation which would mean increased fatigue, how much would actually occur is a bit hard to guess. Tapering the blade thickness out closer in to the hub would probably help too.

My 80 will get the biggest power boost it's ever had this week when I swap it's 33's for my 55's 7.50r16s on splitties!

It's around 30psi that I'd get concerned. I have a billet wheel myself for another turbo so I'll get to see first hand if mine has any issues.
 
It's around 30psi that I'd get concerned. I have a billet wheel myself for another turbo so I'll get to see first hand if mine has any issues.

Haha cool I'm not planning on ever trying to reach that much boost.
 
So I got wind Sumalaya will do 50mm exducer instead of 49.2mm

Thoughts?
 
thoughts, comments on this housing? TD05 compatible.

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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1HD-T-LandCuriser-3SGTE-7MGTE-TD05H-16G-18G-7cm-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-For-TOYOTA/182014335175?_trksid=p2047675.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20140107095009&meid=7ec6c088d53d4709a6ef97192d69aa6d&pid=100040&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=182014335175

what compressor would you run it with?
 
Got it today, CT26 from Supra.
Bearings has been replaced and it is in very nice condition overall.
Right now i'm in turbine housing swap process, new to me turbo was a piece of cake to take apart as you can see that copper anti seize stuff that PO applied.
The old 12H-T turbo is seized very well. Little hammering and WD-40 didn't change anything so it is now taking a bath in diesel. What should i do to to separate the turbine housing from CHRA? Heat? More WD-40 or diesel???
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Heating the turbine housing with a gas torch will expand it to release the grip on the bearing housing.

The Mamba housing is interesting. How does the TD05H compressor side fit with the oil supply/drain and compressor connections?
 
TD05H cores have a oil inlet on the top, drain on the bottom and a water jacket port on either side.

I believe and don't quote me 100% on this that the 18G is best suited for this. UFI uses the same housing on their 18Gs so that has to tell you something....
 
I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread, and I am impressed by the knowledge and efforts by those whom have posted.

I would like to add another worm to the can ;)

Has anyone considered a supercharger option?

I have a 2H engine, and I don't like turbos, anything that interferes with the exhaust flow is a bad idea in my opinion, but that's just me.
It would be a fairly simple option to fit a supercharger in the space under the alternator, where the A/C pump would go.

Any thoughts?
 
Parasitic loss vs free waste heat energy.

There is a supercharger kit for the 1hz available in Australia but it's at least $5000aud worth last I recall. Bang for buck it's just not worth it. My initial turbo setup with a factory ct26 from a 1hd-t cost $1600aud, it is the single most cost effective mod I have ever done to my cruiser.
 
Parasitic loss vs free waste heat energy.

There is a supercharger kit for the 1hz available in Australia but it's at least $5000aud worth last I recall. Bang for buck it's just not worth it. My initial turbo setup with a factory ct26 from a 1hd-t cost $1600aud, it is the single most cost effective mod I have ever done to my cruiser.

5000 bucks, just does not compare with the turbo alternatives.

As per parasitic loss, it's no more than you'd get from an A/C pump.
 
5000 bucks, just does not compare with the turbo alternatives.

As per parasitic loss, it's no more than you'd get from an A/C pump.

I don't think that's an accurate comparison.

As @serenity suggests, cost far out weighs any benefit. installation is no less complicated than turbo in. And turbo charger technology has improved to the point where the main (perceived) benefit of a supercharger (boost from idle) has been surpassed by turbo charger.
Superchargers are not efficient and as mentioned create a parasitic drain on engine power.

I had an Eaton m90 in the shed for ages, I was contemplating using it compounded with a turbo. The more I read, the more convinced I was that it was wasted effort for a host of reasons.

Very few production cars use superchargers, most use turbo chargers
 
Given no one has supercharged a land cruiser it's difficult to get any suitable comparison.
From my understanding, turbos are cheaper in every way compared to superchargers.

But I do still think it's worth exploring, if one can be produced that compares cost wise with a turbo.
Besides, just because everyone does this way, it does not mean it can't be done that way.

It's pretty much an idea that popped into my head a few hours ago, which is why I posted the idea here, to get other views & opinions.
Given, how much practical knowledge is on here.
 
Search for 1hz supercharger and you will get a fair amount of reading across forums etc.

It's been done it's just not cost effective, it won't ever be as cost effective as a turbo setup. I feel they take too much engine bay room for starters, on top of that they require brackets be made to bolt it to the engine plus pulleys to be made and fitted to drive it. Whereas a turbo can be bolted either directly onto the exhaust manifold or with a simple flange adapter at minimal cost.

For a home mechanic a turbo is an easy an to assemble option.
 

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