The $200 bolt. Followed by the $200 tantrum.

[Doc]

There it is. The source of all that is evil in this world.

Previous Owner f***ups.

I didn't pay much attention to the two mis-sized bolts holding my brake caliper on as I removed them for dissasembly. I was focused on puting in new bearings and seals.

But as I neared the end of the front axle re-build, (Indeed, the LAST BOLT) It became horriably clear.

Apparently someone has been in here before. Someone with no sence of right and wrong.

I was putting in the top bolt of the brake caliper, already praising my skill in the re-build. When it bottomed out, and kept turning.

The threads on the knuckle housing for the upper caliper mount are stripped. Stripped JUST enough that the bolt won't work. Apparently the ham-head at the discount brake place drove it in with an air hammer or something and ruined the threads. It came out fine, but when I went to re-install the bolt the damage was clear.

It was at this point I became more angry than I've been in recent memory. I was seconds away from throwing a ratchet through the drivers side window. Instead, the oil pan on the ground got the worst of things.

I dont' know if it was the stripped hole that made me so mad, or the fact that I was ONE BOLT away from finishing the biggest mechanical project I've ever worked on when it became apparent that I was going to have to tear it all apart and start over again.

So, I'm asking my new Land Cruiser community to help me out. I need a new (or used) drivers side knuckle, soon. I've already got a order in with C-Dan if I can't find a used one, but his won't arrive until Tuesday.

If you have one laying around, or know of a good yard that stocks cruisers, please help me out on this one.

I can't believe my first birf job ended so disasterously.

I don't even want to TOUCH the other side now.

Up side? Well, at least I found out while it was sitting in the driveway, and not going down the freeway.

 

[Rookie2]

Ouch.. that totally sucks. No way to re-tap it I quess?

 

[scottm]

Repair it?

Are you familiar with Helicoil thread repair? You drill and tap the hole to a larger thread size, then twist in a coiled insert that restores the original thread size, actually stronger than original. You'll see then in nearly every repair shop and machine shop, widely available and not much $. You should be able to do it in place fairly quickly. It may work, how about a pic of the offending hole?

 

[cruiserdan]

Scott,

We talked about that. My main concern with that approach is the fact that this bolt attaches the brake caliper. A safely concern for me. In addition, I do not know how well Helicoils lend themselves to repeated disassembly. The caliper needs to come of periodically for service work.

 

[Scamper]

Cound't you just drill and tap the hole to a larger diameter size? Granted, the torque specs would be diferent, but it should hold well...no?

 

[cruiserdan]

That requires drilling out the caliper mounting hole as well. Not good if you ever choose to go back to the correct fastener.

I am not a big fan of substituting fasteners in suspension and brake components.

 

[Rogue]

Same exact thing happened to me when I overhauled the thing a year ago. The only differences were that it happened on the passenger side and the bolt had a very different thread pitch. I figure that some shop F'd it up and rigged it to work figuring that an owner would never realize the problem.

I also went to Dan with my dilemma and he helped me out with a new knuckle. Be prepared to remove the bottom studs from the old knuckle and replace them into the new knuckle. You will also need to remove the little bits from the old one and re-use them on the new knuckle. It isn't difficult at all, but now that you are this far you should re-pack the birfs if you did not already.

If you have any questions you can PM me as I did this just one year ago.

 

[Rogue]

Scratch what I said about the re-pack. I just read your other thread.

 

[semlin]

that is too bad. So close and yet so far. They use helicoils to retap stripped spark splug holes so I would be surprised if it would not work for a knuckle housing but I understand your caution.

for a used kunckle housing you could try:

www.cruiserparts.net
www.taprecyclcing.com


good luck and don't get downhearted. I have had my share of birfield woes too. This too will pass.

 

[Doc]

I share Dan's concern about this being a very important piece of the safety structure of my vehicle.

This is why I'm reluctant to go with the Helicoil approach.

As for taking out the studs in the old knuckle, how do I go about doing that?

 

[Scamper]

Don't know how much Dan's dogs want for them, but I'd guess that it would be easier to just put new ones in.

 

[Big_Moose]

Doc

Since it has been a frustrating day -- you get to take the BFH and beat the studs to a pulp to remove -- alright, after that mental stress relief, the best bet is if you order a knuckle housing from CDan, you can also order new studs.

To remove the studs, thread two nuts onto the stud, and lock the nuts together. Using the lower nut to remove the stud as the top nut will keep the lower nut from turning, and forces the stud to turn with the lower nut. To install the used studs, just use the top nut as the lower nut keeps the top nut from turning, forcing the stud to turn into the knuckle.

Buying the new studs from CDan, which come with an inverted torx head and can be installed / tightened to spec with the appropriate sockect.

I would purchase new studs - new parts / minimal extra cost...

Joe

 

[Newps]

Do not use TAP they are rip off artists. The longest going thread on Pirate4x4.com is of people complaining about TAP.

 

[Doc]

Great news!

We now have a Tornado Warning in Webster County (where I live).

This has been an awesome day!

I'm going to the basement now.

 

[Big_Moose]

Doc

Stay safe & hang on to the earth

 

[Scamper]

I suppose you could pray that the tornado rips the front axle off your truck and you're insurance company will have to replace it...

 

[semlin]

I had not heard complaints about TAPs. I will go read about it on pirate.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I share Dan's concern about this being a very important piece of the safety structure of my vehicle.

This is why I'm reluctant to go with the Helicoil approach.

As for taking out the studs in the old knuckle, how do I go about doing that?

Don't bother pulling the old studs-just buy new ones. I have just gone through this and I think they cost all of $1.50 each. Ask CDan if the newstyle Toyota Knuckle studs will work-they have a torx head to aid driving them into the housing. I removed my old ones with a vice grip. See the attached picture.

No question in my mid, though, get a used knuckle, or a new one if you are flush with green.

 

[Rookie2]

Seems like there should be plenty of these in the used market. Wouldn't think this would be a part that there's a high demand for, and used should be just as good a new for something like this, IMO.

You'll have it apart and back together in no time, now that you've done it once.


Rookie2

 

[turbocruiser]

Yes, they do use helicoils to retap stripped spark plug holes, I have two of them in an classic coupe benz and so far every time I have gone to remove the spark plugs, the damn helicoils come out too! This worry me since I wonder if eventually the helicoil getting screwed in and out so much will hurt the aluminum of the head? Anyway, in this case, CruiserDan is the salvation to super s***ty situation, at least in the sense that his peace of mind on perfect parts is about as valuable (peace of mind) and yet as inexpensive (parts) as it gets! For these reasons, I would ONLY use OEM, NIB, parts from dan the man. It still sucks. Take Care.