Builds Tex's 200 build thread (1 Viewer)

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BH3D inserts, what a game changer. It's funny that it's always the little things that bring the most joy.

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The real game changer is the one that removes the lid entirely.
 
I considered that but I still like to be able to close it. A little Gorilla tape underneath and on the sides holds everything firmly in place.
 
I don’t regret moving to 1/2” and 1/4”. Skipped 3/8” entirely. Like you was breaking the 3/8” stuff even at moderate car type torques.
 
I don’t regret moving to 1/2” and 1/4”. Skipped 3/8” entirely. Like you was breaking the 3/8” stuff even at moderate car type torques.

The replacement will be a 1/2" for sure. It broke attempting 110, unacceptable. The good thing was that it broke on the very last lug nut lol. I haven't had any issues with the in/lb wrench that I have.
 
I decided to go ahead and install the Xpel door sill guard kit today. It's sad how easily the brushed aluminum inserts scratch and the metal is so thin that they dent quite easily as well (happened on both the GX and LX). I decided to get ahead of that possible damage on this truck and wrap them in the Xpel material. It wasn't the most difficult install but separating the inserts from the trim panels was a delicate balance of constant pressure and attempting to sever the double sided tape while not bending or tweaking the inserts as you pry them apart. A little trimming with a blade and applying some 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive (to reinstall the aluminum inserts to the trim pieces where the double sided tape was separated) and they went back in without much fuss.

Make sure to trim the Xpel material close to the insert edge otherwise it'll bunch when attempting to snap the inserts back into the trim pieces and you'll get bubbles. Not only does this match the black plastics very well, it'll keep scratches to a minimum, provide more grip for the MIL (lol) and possibly even a little extra rigidity for the inserts to lessen the chance of dents/dings.

I used two of these for both the front and rear doors and I still have plenty left over. I might see about using whats left for the lip on the tailgate.

Amazon product ASIN B003EP52I8

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I am finally getting around to installing the ARB Twin Air Compressor removed from GX and two prior 5th Gens. I decided to go with the Slee mount as their stuff worked well for me in the past. For now I plan to run a CH4x4 Toyota style switch in the dash switch bank to activate the compressor. When I get around to the second stage of the build (i.e. lift/wheels/tires/etc.) I'll install a Switch Pros SP-9100 along with other auxiliary lights.

I only installed the bracket and the manifold as I am currently waiting on the in-cab switch and a new wiring harness from ARB (apparently I damaged the old one when hastily removing it from the GX). I will need access to the firewall grommet to pass through the wiring harness once it arrives, so until then I have left the compressor itself uninstalled.

The install is fairly straightforward. Slee provides a new bracket for the air pump relays to get them tucked below the compressor bracket and you have to relocate the associated ground wire to a firewall stud. I was shorted a few pieces of hardware in the Slee kit which is unfortunate but I had to make a run to the hardware store for bolts to mount the compressor to the bracket so no harm or foul in the end. I'll update the thread and post completed install pics once the the new harness and switch arrive and can be installed. I am looking forward to having onboard air once again.



New air pump relay bracket vs. OEM

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Relocated ground wire to firewall stud.

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Compressor bracket installed with manifold/bracket mounted.

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2 things:
1- make sure the slee support isnt contacting the wires to those modules. a few guys had the metal wear through the wire insulation and short them out.
2- the ends of that stainless hose will rotate. You'll need to adjust to make it all work correctly.



 
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2 things:
1- make sure the slee support isnt contacting the wires to those modules. a few guys had the metal wear through the wire insulation and short them out.
2- the ends of that stainless hose will rotate. You'll need to adjust to make it all work correctly.




Thanks for the input. This will be my fourth vehicle to install this compressor in, the manifold is always a PITA. Slee mentioned the wire clearance in the install instructions, I was already investigating the clearance when installing it earlier. As soon as the new harness arrives I'll get the compressor mounted and everything buttoned up.
 
Great build thread . Surprising, I am done with my 2013 200 series. 33K of travel in two years with lots of off road travel .

Feel free to pick my brain.

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Great build thread . Surprising, I am done with my 2013 200 series. 33K of travel in two years with lots of off road travel .

Feel free to pick my brain.

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Done as in done with the build or done with the vehicle and now you plan to sell and move on? I've read some of your posts, good stuff.
 
Done as in done with the build or done with the vehicle and now you plan to sell and move on? I've read some of your posts, good stuff.
Done with the build . I'm expecting this truck to last the rest of my life. I kept my last Land Cruiser(FJ60) for 22 years . Thanks . I also write magazine articles about trips.
 
In the end I had to modify the outermost fuse box hinge in order for the filter housing to clear and the hose required slipping of the ends in order to get the proper angles for fitment within the provided space without kinking the hose (ask me how I know lol). Of the four different vehicles this compressor has lived in this one was by far the most involved in way of install and extra modifications needed in order for it to work. The CH4x4 switch should be here today and I will hopefully have it all buttoned up and be able to do a leak down test this evening.

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Switch is in and we have power, no leaks, all is well.

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I decided to cover up the tailgate plastics with Xpel since I had some lying around still from when I did the door sill plates. No more scratches to the naked eye and no more to be added going forward.

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I decided to cover up the tailgate plastics with Xpel since I had some lying around still from when I did the door sill plates. No more scratches to the naked eye and no more to be added going forward.

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How did it adhere to the textured plastic?
 
#@*%&$!*%&#$%!*


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Thanks for the input. This will be my fourth vehicle to install this compressor in, the manifold is always a PITA. Slee mentioned the wire clearance in the install instructions, I was already investigating the clearance when installing it earlier. As soon as the new harness arrives I'll get the compressor mounted and everything buttoned up.
I was one of the people that had the wire short out - on the most recent install I used additional split loom wire sheathing to ensure there isn't any rubbing.
 
I was one of the people that had the wire short out - on the most recent install I used additional split loom wire sheathing to ensure there isn't any rubbing.

I wrapped the post and the wires in HD electrical tape and then I added a split fuel line hose to encase the end of the loom as well.

That’s a good one. OEM and **** Safelite.

Yea it was larger than a golf ball and coming off a truck going the other direction on I-10. Any suggestions on a OEM glass installer in the Houston area would be appreciated.
 

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