Builds TexasD90 LX450 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TexasD90
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Did you use a 50 or 100 foot roll?
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Ok. Im definitely laying this down when I do my v8 swap. The noise inside the interior sounds like Im flying a helicopter haha
- Thread starter
- #45
Things have been busy, and I haven't had near enough time to work on the cruiser, but thought I would give a little update anyway. I bought the metal to build my sliders and rear bumper. Got the drivers side slider built and painted. The sliders are 3/16 2x4 tubing, 1.75 inch .120 wall on the rub rails, and 1/4 inch plate for the brackets. They will bolt on with 1/2 inch x 4 inch bolts.
Great looking truck dude! Nice looking sliders also. Can't wait to see what you are going to do for a rear bumper.
- Thread starter
- #48
Looking for input on rear bumper.... Why do 2 swing outs instead of one? Seems like you are just making it harder to get in the back hatch. If you are on the side of the road with one swing out on the passenger side it would open out of traffic. I am thinking of having a table that folds down behind my spare tire. This would give you a work station at the back of the truck. I have a spindle from a to z fab that has a 700 pound capacity, so weight isn't an issue.
It seems very popular to have 2 swing outs, domaine I'm missing something. Please educate me.
Thanks!
It seems very popular to have 2 swing outs, domaine I'm missing something. Please educate me.
Thanks!
Did dynamat make a big difference for you?
Looks amazing man! 
Getting ready to do some of this to my rig, but I have a question for you all who have done the liner projects. All instructions seem to imply to remove the masking within 30-45 mins (give or take). I assume that is after the last coat is applied? Otherwise seems like it would turn into a race to get it all done in the time table they provide...
Getting ready to do some of this to my rig, but I have a question for you all who have done the liner projects. All instructions seem to imply to remove the masking within 30-45 mins (give or take). I assume that is after the last coat is applied? Otherwise seems like it would turn into a race to get it all done in the time table they provide...
- Thread starter
- #51
mickeyt, yes the megamat made a huge difference. the only place i hear noise coming through the truck right now is wind noise through my windshield gasket. it is getting replaced with a new windshield because of some serious cracks. i will be able to tell more about the quietness after that.
chaoswyrm, i masked one time. let dry for the recommended flash time between coats, and then let it dry for 4 hours before i pulled the masking off. i had no issues. i would sure recommend using good quality masking tape. at a good paint store there will be many options. the blue painters tape at home depot or such store is actually one of the cheapest (worst) ones. I used one that was a green color that the car colors guys told me was the best.
chaoswyrm, i masked one time. let dry for the recommended flash time between coats, and then let it dry for 4 hours before i pulled the masking off. i had no issues. i would sure recommend using good quality masking tape. at a good paint store there will be many options. the blue painters tape at home depot or such store is actually one of the cheapest (worst) ones. I used one that was a green color that the car colors guys told me was the best.
Great advice, thank you! Picked up some good tape from a auto paint shop around town that seems to work really well. Ended up needing more than originally purchased, so I ended up getting some that happens to be green. Hope it work as well as yours did!
Did you use the 3m green tape for the curves around where the flares used to be or something more malleable? I picked up some tape and Al's liner today and was wondering about making that curve nice and smooth.
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- #54
I used the green tape. It made the bends very nicely. Just take your time, and be sure the tape is sticking well. When I made corners I would overlap the tape from both directions and then cut off the extra with a razor blade. hope this helps.
Hah thanks, just gave me a dang why didn't I think of that moment.
have not marked off the flares area yet, but that was my plan as well. Now at least I know it will work, lol.
- Thread starter
- #57
Little update..... got the passenger side slider finished with the cat skid plate. I like the way they turned out. They are the same width as the tires, and stick out about 1.5 inches further that the side of the door. Hopefully they will keep the side of the truck off the trees and rocks as well as protect it from the bottom. Next up is either to switch out the leather on the seats or build the rear bumper......
I think you need to do more research on pivots, 700lbs is not enough for one dual let alone a large single with tire and jerry cans and what ever else you add.
I have been trying to decide my self one large swing out or two. Two is easier in areas where the rear room is restricted (parallel parking and sometimes on the trail). Its down side most times though is two latches (in most cases to um latch) and then securing them in the open position. Benefit though is there weight is lower so easier for smaller people to use (wife/kids).
The large ones take less steps to open but then you have a very heavy swing out, more stress on a single pivot, more roof required to open. Benefits are though only one $$$ pivot (4x4lab's in my case) and some more freedom with layout of components.
I got some spindles that are good from Comp 4X4 in utah that are good for 1500 lbs a piece. They were half the price of the ones from labs. I do have a Labs base bumper on my truck though. IMO duals is better weight wise less strain on any one point. Just MO
