Terrible news

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Ok, I lied about the piehole being shut. If your are basing the above on my post, I did not say the bearings are bad. I did say that they are likely getting damaged (lead often comes from the bearings). The ONLY way to check the bearings is to perform a tear down and lay eyes on them ....

To add to that, the accelerated wear is probably due to the small amount water in the oil. I bet it'd go back down after the now confirmed oil-coolant mix problem is fixed.

Maybe we should have trusted the dye in the first place?
 
To add to that, the accelerated wear is probably due to the small amount water in the oil. I bet it'd go back down after the now confirmed oil-coolant mix problem is fixed.

Maybe we should have trusted the dye in the first place?
Can you help me do that?....
 
Help you do what, call Terry? Talk to him, go over your symptoms and see if they line up with what he experienced before having his head welded.
 
Help you do what, call Terry? Talk to him, go over your symptoms and see if they line up with what he experienced before having his head welded.

No he's at work and bypassing the oil cooler
 
No he's at work and bypassing the oil cooler

If by bypassing you mean removing and testing the oil cooler, then yes. Come over this weekend.
 
An old boat-racing friend of mine always told me that glycol (antifreeze) is way harder on bearings in the event of a head gasket failure than water (most boats don't use antifreeze and he's seen plenty of carnage from both cars and boats). As such, in the past, when I've broken in a new engine I have always run it on straight water for a couple of months to see how it was going to behave. Once I know the engine is doing fine, I switch to 50/50. Based on that I would recommend straight water to you as well except for the fact that it's getting cold out and you need the antifreeze. Can anybody else verify or has anybody else ever heard that glycol or glycol/water mix is more damaging to bearing surfaces than straight water in the event that the oil gets contaminated? Just curious...
 
It is my understanding that fuel is worse than water / glycol at the percentages John is seeing. I am unaware of the differences between straight water and glycol / water. I am as concerned about the fuel dilution as I am about the water/antifreeze
 
Aloha, all! John, I'm sorry to hear that you're having all of these issues, especially after having your head work done at a dealership. I read through all of this and some of it is confusing, so I'll just ask some questions and make some comments. I'm no mechanic, but unfortunately, I've had to deal with this twice, so I'll be glad to kick in my limited knowledge.

1. The compression test shows 175psi on all cylinders? That's about 26 psi higher than the FSM calls for. I have no idea if that is an issue, but it's something that I noticed.
2. A coolant pressure test has been done with no loss of pressure? Hot and cold?
3. The recent pics from Johnny's shows some pretty good gunk in the valve cover. Is this not the dreaded "milkshake" that's indicative of a head gasket issue? Mine looked like that the second time.
4. For the record, the first time mine blew, it was a catastrophic failure. The radiator blew a fist sized hole and before I realized it, the truck had overheated and blew the gasket, so I didn't have the chance to notice symptoms. The second time, there was a crack at one of the valve seats and I had it welded by a company in Goldsboro. https://plus.google.com/109644501657640893273/about?hl=en This guy apparently welds a ton of heads for backhoes, forklifts, etc. If you need this service done, make sure you get him to tap the oil freeze plug. I forgot and it bothers me.
5. It sounds like you're losing a ton of coolant, obviously it has to be going somewhere. I know it's cold there, now, but could the heater core be bypassed to see if it is the culprit?
6. When I was having my second issue, I used the FSM and went through step by step by step that it outlines. If you don't have one, you owe it to yourself to get one. There are no shortcuts and it's the most concise and precise way to troubleshoot.
7. I was having a ton of white smoke on start up and until it got to operating temperature. It was a lot more noticeable than what you seem to have going on.
 
Aloha, all! John, I'm sorry to hear that you're having all of these issues, especially after having your head work done at a dealership. I read through all of this and some of it is confusing, so I'll just ask some questions and make some comments. I'm no mechanic, but unfortunately, I've had to deal with this twice, so I'll be glad to kick in my limited knowledge.

1. The compression test shows 175psi on all cylinders? That's about 26 psi higher than the FSM calls for. I have no idea if that is an issue, but it's something that I noticed.
2. A coolant pressure test has been done with no loss of pressure? Hot and cold?
3. The recent pics from Johnny's shows some pretty good gunk in the valve cover. Is this not the dreaded "milkshake" that's indicative of a head gasket issue? Mine looked like that the second time.
4. For the record, the first time mine blew, it was a catastrophic failure. The radiator blew a fist sized hole and before I realized it, the truck had overheated and blew the gasket, so I didn't have the chance to notice symptoms. The second time, there was a crack at one of the valve seats and I had it welded by a company in Goldsboro. https://plus.google.com/109644501657640893273/about?hl=en This guy apparently welds a ton of heads for backhoes, forklifts, etc. If you need this service done, make sure you get him to tap the oil freeze plug. I forgot and it bothers me.
5. It sounds like you're losing a ton of coolant, obviously it has to be going somewhere. I know it's cold there, now, but could the heater core be bypassed to see if it is the culprit?
6. When I was having my second issue, I used the FSM and went through step by step by step that it outlines. If you don't have one, you owe it to yourself to get one. There are no shortcuts and it's the most concise and precise way to troubleshoot.
7. I was having a ton of white smoke on start up and until it got to operating temperature. It was a lot more noticeable than what you seem to have going on.

1. I don't know about that. Some one with more knowledge will have to chime in.
2. Both hot and cold all are good.
3. I thought it was to but like I said I'm no expert here.
4. If it is that I will send it to them! And tap those.
5. Well there's no wet floor board and that's usually how you tell it's gone.
6. Yes I have one
7. Yea I have tons of white smoke but does not smell like coolant.

Also it passed a head gasket test too
 
No offense but that head gasket test result is a little suspect in my opinion. You have white smoke on start up and a lot according to you. Blackstone confirms antifreeze is in the oil. If that does not scream head gasket I don't know what does. Didn't you have the head gasket test done at the dealership? The same dealership that did the original work? If that's the case they are fxxxing with you and just hope you go away.
 
No offense but that head gasket test result is a little suspect in my opinion. You have white smoke on start up and a lot according to you. Blackstone confirms antifreeze is in the oil. If that does not scream head gasket I don't know what does. Didn't you have the head gasket test done at the dealership? The same dealership that did the original work? If that's the case they are ****ing with you and just hope you go away.
Okay. Well done it multiple times never shown any yellows not like I need some blue Kool-Aid in there. Last time I blew my head gasket white smoke came out it was running like s*** vibrating real bad but now I have none of that it's just a little bit of white smoke when you started up in the morningand I checked with the warranty department I'm out of warranty by five months is a one-year warranty
 
No don't do that. This thread Has the best intentions for you and your truck. My bad for kicking a guy while he was down. But c'mon you made that one too easy :).

Your getting good advice here but listen to what people are saying and try and help us help you. Tough spot to be in but we are rooting for you.

Looks I was beat to it but was going to suggest 500 pullout for a replacement and potential parts. Then pony up for some beer and food and send the mudvite out. Have you asked Stan if he has a 3fe? Or searched mud ?
 
John, maybe it is time to park the Land Cruiser and get yourself a cheap beater for a while. You are obviously having financial issues and maintaining an 80 as your DD is not cheap by anyone's standards. Get yourself back up on your feet and then figure out what the issue is for the land cruiser. Just a suggestion, no need to debate it.
 
John, when I replaced both heads in the Ranger I still had a small water leak in the head gasket. I bought some stop leak pills at the Chevy dealership for something like $3.00. You get 5 pills and I crushed only 3 and put in the radiator. It worked for me until I got rid of it. It might buy you a little time until you can get some cash together. Just my .02.
 
I agree with Stan, get a beater, park the pumpkin and save up while you collect parts for the hamom, besides Stan may likely become a spare motor connection soon enough.
 
Thread has been cleaned. Stress is high, EXTREMELY offensive (and threatening) comments were posted and none of it should have been said.

This thread is about diagnosing, fixing and documenting the coolant leak issue on John Rives' truck ONLY.

Back on track:
John R is at my house today. We intend to remove the oil cooler and pressure test the coolant side to see if the oil cooler is the culprit. The procedure is to remove and supply pressure to the coolant side with a pressure gauge and measure the pressure loss over time. More or less a leak-down test for the oil cooler.

If the oil cooler is bad, then it will be replaced and the truck's condition re-evaluated. If the oil cooler tests good, then the head will come off, unless anyone else has other suggestions.

Thank you all for the civil and constructive posts moving forward.

EDIT:
- After discussing the posts of yesterday further, it is evident I mis-interpreted some of the responses. Quotes were made that did not initially come across as such to me. The above has been corrected for clarify for people reading this thread after the fact. I did not intend to take sides, only to moderate the conversation.
 
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