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- #101
Not there yet.....the court thing most likely would cost me a lot more than fixing it and I prefer knowing the fixes are done right. I am keeping a record of everything in case I change my mind though.
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Not there yet.....the court thing most likely would cost me a lot more than fixing it and I prefer knowing the fixes are done right. I am keeping a record of everything in case I change my mind though.
- Thread starter
- #102
Issue 33: Front Axel Brake Line making contact with coolant hose and creating risk of hose damage. This is due to the piss poor job the builder did on installing the brake lines. 
Solution 33: Adjust axel brake lines to stay clear of hose. I plan on replacing the lines and hoses and clean up the installation in the future.
Solution 33: Adjust axel brake lines to stay clear of hose. I plan on replacing the lines and hoses and clean up the installation in the future.
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I've been subscribed to this thread from the beginning and hold my breath every time there is a new post. I'm glad to see you are human and finally showing a little emotion with the numerous mistakes that were made. You are a patient man and clearly knowledgeable about these rigs and how to fix them. Sounds like to me, you should be restoring these rigs versus the original builder. Keep your head up.Issue 33: Front Axel Brake Line making contact with coolant hose and creating risk of hose damage. This is due to the piss poor job the builder did on installing the brake lines.
Solution 33: (Planned). Adjust or rerun axel brake lines to stay clear of hose. I may end up buying a set of new lines from SOR to do it right.
- Thread starter
- #104
Thanks for the support. Once I get a new daily driver and my FJ becomes just a toy, I will probably redo several other things just because I know I can do them better and will not be in a rush. Luckly, everything continues to be mostly minor nuisance issues like this.
I’m sure their are plenty of others who have gone through the same crap after buying a rebuilt truck but are too embarrassed to admit it. I look to this thread as therapy knowing the there has been over 6k views that can hopefully help others.
EVENTUALLY I will run out of things to work on.
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That’s not how this game is played.
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- #106
True. I guess that is just part of the romance of owning an FJ.
- Thread starter
- #107
I will be at the Cars and Coffee meet tomorrow morning in The Woodlands, TX if anyone is in the area and would like to meet.
Cars and Coffee Event at Market Street, The Woodlands, TX Nov 1 7-10am
Cars and Coffee Event at Market Street, The Woodlands, TX Nov 1 7-10am
- Thread starter
- #108
Issue 34: Reverse lights and backup camera quit coming on. After some trouble shooting, I figured out that it was due to a faulty switch on the transmission. I also noticed that both the reverse lamp switch and 4wd indicator switch were connected to the wiring harness with only half of the waterproof electrical connector. . The builder just put pins on the harness side and left the connectors open.
Solution 34: I ordered a new reverse switch from Toyota and bought a MUYI 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector to remake the connector connections properly.
.
Reverse lamp switch - part number 8421030060 - brass item in picture screwed into the transmission housing
Switch connectors that were missing mating half on harnesses and replacement connectors. If you plan on using these connectors make sure to purchase the crimping tool which is also available from MUYI through Amazon.
. The builder just put pins on the harness side and left the connectors open.Solution 34: I ordered a new reverse switch from Toyota and bought a MUYI 2 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Connector to remake the connector connections properly.
.
Reverse lamp switch - part number 8421030060 - brass item in picture screwed into the transmission housing
Switch connectors that were missing mating half on harnesses and replacement connectors. If you plan on using these connectors make sure to purchase the crimping tool which is also available from MUYI through Amazon.
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Pardon my ignorance, as I just finished reading this thread, but are the cock ups because of crappy QC that was missed in the "thorough restoration" or just a crappy restoration?
My dad has been agonizing over getting something like this as a retirement present for himself and I keep telling him these can be a much more expensive project car.
My dad has been agonizing over getting something like this as a retirement present for himself and I keep telling him these can be a much more expensive project car.
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- #110
These guys did really good on some things but the final assembly looks like it was done by an amateur and/or just done in a rush to get it out the door. Getting it done by a professional will always cost a lot more than doing it yourself. I tried to go with the lower cost overseas builder and now I am having to deal with the results. Based on the ones I have seen and companies I follow, a U.S. company really cannot do a professional quality resto-mod for under $100k. Most of the ones that I consider to be the best FJ restorations companies go between $120-250K. The way I look at it, even with dealing with all these issues, I can get eventually get my in great shape for a lot less than that. What really counts to me is that I have a LC with good bones to build on.
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- Thread starter
- #111
Repeat of Issue 1: Oil leaking from ARB Air Compressor - Locker Solenoid. I did a 2 hour interstate +75mph run yesterday and the rear differential heated up enough to push oil up the air locker line again. I suspect the axel breather is blocked again and will work on it later today.
Solution 1 rev 2: Did the same routine of disconnecting the air line blowing out the oil (very little 1-2oz) and cleaning out the breather however; it did not appear to be blocked. I will recheck the line after a couple of 100 miles to see if oil is getting in again. I did some research and I may have to end up having to change the o-rings in the locker. Cruiser Outfitters - ARM Troubleshooting
(Update Dec 21: changed the diff oil which was very dirty and now the ARB seals are working fine)
Solution 1 rev 2: Did the same routine of disconnecting the air line blowing out the oil (very little 1-2oz) and cleaning out the breather however; it did not appear to be blocked. I will recheck the line after a couple of 100 miles to see if oil is getting in again. I did some research and I may have to end up having to change the o-rings in the locker. Cruiser Outfitters - ARM Troubleshooting
(Update Dec 21: changed the diff oil which was very dirty and now the ARB seals are working fine)
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For your sake I hope you get it working right, it is a beautiful looking truck, and it makes me happy just looking at it.
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- #113
Made the website for our local cars and coffee meet. Once I get all the bugs worked out, I really need to start getting it dirty.
- Thread starter
- #114
Issue 35: Brake pedal not returning fully and brakes lights staying on. After a little troubleshooting, I figured out that I was missing the pedal return springs on my brake and clutch pedals.
Solution 35: The OEM spring has been discontinued but someone posted in IH8MUD that the True Value Spring #70 is the same size spring so I just picked it up locally and they worked great. I also had to get the cotter pins for the pedal to actuator pins which were also missing.
Solution 35: The OEM spring has been discontinued but someone posted in IH8MUD that the True Value Spring #70 is the same size spring so I just picked it up locally and they worked great. I also had to get the cotter pins for the pedal to actuator pins which were also missing.
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- Thread starter
- #115
Issue 36: Leaking fuel line. Looks like the builder used cheap rubber hose for the fuel line running from the tank to the fuel filter and it has sprung a leak. He also ran the line loose inside the frame rail instead of on the outside of the rail using clamps.
Solution 36: Will have to replace the whole line with a better suited hose and/or hard line with proper clamping.
Solution 36: Will have to replace the whole line with a better suited hose and/or hard line with proper clamping.
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I think I would draw the line at "unsafe fuel line install" and send it back to them. You have a lot more patience than I.
Granted it is very very pretty....
Granted it is very very pretty....
Stutes,
I have gone through getting a truck rebuilt and there were many aspects of it that did not go well. It put me off the whole "scene" for a lot of years actually. Slowly, working on things myself, and finding a good mechanic and body guy to help when I needed it restored my faith, and my Land Cruiser. Enough to come back on 'Mud after many years away.
This thread has been therapy for me too. I wish I had your attitude through it all. Great of you to post this up. I wish you the best with it going forward.
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- #118
I think I would draw the line at "unsafe fuel line install" and send it back to them. You have a lot more patience than I.
Granted it is very very pretty....
At this point, I don’t trust them enough to send it back. A mechanic friend said this is a common problem with imported trucks because the fuel lines used in South America are not made to handle the ethanol content of the fuel used in the US.
- Thread starter
- #119
Nice looking rig! And thanks for your post. Which rear rack are you using?
Man a Fre. It's a solid unit. I bought it over a decade ago. On their website it looks like they have improved it somewhat. On mine the finish should have been better and the pivots needed zerts.
4 Plus Rear Tire and Cooler Carrier for 1958-1984 4x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers - Landcruiser Parts
4 Plus Rear Tire and Cooler Carrier for 1958-1984 4x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers. All bumpers/tire carriers have a 4-6 week lead time.
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