Builds Tenerife to Texas: a 1997 HDJ80 Tale (1 Viewer)
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- #142
Tiny steps tonight.
I installed a remote lock/unlock unit made by Trail Teq in Australia. As this is a euro spec HDJ80 with no RS 000, there was nothing to disable. Literally just pull apart the door panel, plug and play. This is really well designed. I have now rocketed forwards from 1997 into the early 2000s of technology.
I installed a remote lock/unlock unit made by Trail Teq in Australia. As this is a euro spec HDJ80 with no RS 000, there was nothing to disable. Literally just pull apart the door panel, plug and play. This is really well designed. I have now rocketed forwards from 1997 into the early 2000s of technology.
bottombracket
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- #143
The keychain is patina-ing nicely.
bottombracket
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- #144
Now, the broken mirror:
There are new OEM 80 series mirrors still available… But only in black and chrome. Yes I ordered a wobbly mirror fix from Delta VS, but I tried out the black and I think I might go for it.
There are new OEM 80 series mirrors still available… But only in black and chrome. Yes I ordered a wobbly mirror fix from Delta VS, but I tried out the black and I think I might go for it.
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- #145
Tonight I finished bolting up the exhaust manifold/turbo, turbo oil lines, and got the 3 inch exhaust laid out. Relevant part numbers for turbo oil union, gaskets, and exhaust cushion attached.
Nate would like to go to bed.
PDI intercooler has been moved into the on deck circle.
Nate would like to go to bed.
PDI intercooler has been moved into the on deck circle.
bottombracket
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- #146
In classic fashion, I lost the injection line hold down clamps. Stedman for the win again.
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- #147
Well lookee here. Dang it.
I knew I never throw anything away.
I knew I never throw anything away.
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- #148
I finally got moving forward on the PDI intercooler. I picked up the correct early valance from @Hamachi to suit the turbo grill. I had to clearance the lower valence edges quite a bit. The turn signals fit with just a tiny bit of overhang at the top as the intercooler pipes push them out and down slightly. Close enough.
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- #149
Got the correct quad headlight clear corner lens sub harnesses from Stedman. Much lower profile than the standard harness at the bottom.
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- #150
I had to order some extra piping to go from the 80 mm/3.25 inch airbox lid to the 3.5 inch G turbo. The factory OEM tubes size down to 2.5 inches which just didn’t make sense. Clamps, piping, and couplers are on the way, as well as a bead roller.
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- #151
Time to lean on y’all for a little advice. This is a 19 97 Euro spec HDJ80. I want to delete the EGR and not have all the lights go off on the dash. Pump still has SICS and BACS. I’ve started searching through MUD, but can someone give me the quick and dirty of what to hook to which vacuum and or cap off?
@gilmorneau, @ikarus, @96TrailSurfer - I’m reading your old threads.
I have real Toyota vacuum lines coming as well as OEM and brass barb fittings. I have a Lutz Auto clock replacement boost and EGT probe to hook up, too.
@gilmorneau, @ikarus, @96TrailSurfer - I’m reading your old threads.
I have real Toyota vacuum lines coming as well as OEM and brass barb fittings. I have a Lutz Auto clock replacement boost and EGT probe to hook up, too.
gilmorneau
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If it's only the EGR you want to delete, there's not much to it. There's one vacuum line that goes to both VSV's that operate the two EGR valves. That vacuum line can be removed and capped. Follow it from the EGR VSV's back along the intake crossover to where it connects to a "T" underneath the blue VSV near where the throttle cable bracket is. See here:
Remove the EGR vacuum hose from the "T" and cap the "T".
The electrical connections to the EGR VSV's can be unplugged and the wires stashed out of the way on the inner fender somewhere. The blue and red VSV's circled in green in this photo are the ones to unplug. The hose marked with blue is the other end of the same hose shown above. The actual EGR valves are circled in red.
As far as I can tell, there is no feedback to the emissions computer regarding whether this system is plugged in and working. The computer seems to take information from elsewhere and send it to these VSV's, but I don't think the computer has anyway of knowing that they're not actually there. Kind of a phantom limb sort of thing. Theoretically, if you do all of the above, your dash lights should be happy (and off). Easy enough to try. Let me know if I'm wrong, though.
Whether or not you physically remove the actual EGR valves should make no operational difference. That is, unless they're leaking they won't do anything whether they're bolted to your motor or in a box on the shelf in your garage. Obviously, if you want to remove them, you'll need to block the ports where they mount, but you'll also need to add a ground strap between the intake crossover and the head, since the pre-heat screen is grounded through the EGR mountings.
FWIW, I've decided to leave my EGR in place. I can't pass my annual emissions inspection without it. If anything, I may get a catch can to separate out the oil mist from the PCV so that I'm not mixing exhaust and oil in my intake, but for now it's running great just as Toyota made it.
Remove the EGR vacuum hose from the "T" and cap the "T".
The electrical connections to the EGR VSV's can be unplugged and the wires stashed out of the way on the inner fender somewhere. The blue and red VSV's circled in green in this photo are the ones to unplug. The hose marked with blue is the other end of the same hose shown above. The actual EGR valves are circled in red.
As far as I can tell, there is no feedback to the emissions computer regarding whether this system is plugged in and working. The computer seems to take information from elsewhere and send it to these VSV's, but I don't think the computer has anyway of knowing that they're not actually there. Kind of a phantom limb sort of thing. Theoretically, if you do all of the above, your dash lights should be happy (and off). Easy enough to try. Let me know if I'm wrong, though.
Whether or not you physically remove the actual EGR valves should make no operational difference. That is, unless they're leaking they won't do anything whether they're bolted to your motor or in a box on the shelf in your garage. Obviously, if you want to remove them, you'll need to block the ports where they mount, but you'll also need to add a ground strap between the intake crossover and the head, since the pre-heat screen is grounded through the EGR mountings.
FWIW, I've decided to leave my EGR in place. I can't pass my annual emissions inspection without it. If anything, I may get a catch can to separate out the oil mist from the PCV so that I'm not mixing exhaust and oil in my intake, but for now it's running great just as Toyota made it.
I ended up with a very simple setup. I can't remember all my reasoning since it was a couple years ago but here are some pics and a diagram.
I have a total of 4 vacuum lines. SICS and BACS are tied together with a T and go straight to vacuum, running down the side of the timing cover.
That's bottom two on the intake manifold bracket:
The third line runs straight from the PDI intake elbow to the boost comp. Top line on the intake manifold bracket:
And the fourth line runs from the other port on the PDI elbow to the Lutz boost gauge sensor that I mounted on the firewall/cowl:
Runs great. No complaints. Did this a couple years ago and have driven it probably 5K miles from 3K-6K elevation.
I got rid of my OEM boost pressure sensor.
I have in my notes that SICS is the cylindrical diaphragm sticking out from the IP closest to the engine block, BACS is the port slightly higher and away from the block, and of course the boost comp is the port on the top of the IP.
I have a total of 4 vacuum lines. SICS and BACS are tied together with a T and go straight to vacuum, running down the side of the timing cover.
That's bottom two on the intake manifold bracket:
The third line runs straight from the PDI intake elbow to the boost comp. Top line on the intake manifold bracket:
And the fourth line runs from the other port on the PDI elbow to the Lutz boost gauge sensor that I mounted on the firewall/cowl:
Runs great. No complaints. Did this a couple years ago and have driven it probably 5K miles from 3K-6K elevation.
I got rid of my OEM boost pressure sensor.
I have in my notes that SICS is the cylindrical diaphragm sticking out from the IP closest to the engine block, BACS is the port slightly higher and away from the block, and of course the boost comp is the port on the top of the IP.
Good info.
bottombracket
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- #155
@gilmorneau and @ikarus THAKK YOU.
Today’s theme was reuse, reduce, recycle. I reused sme old vacuum line, the plastic T, and the line hold down clamp.
I will replace this vacuum line with fresh when it gets here from Partsouq next week. I’ll use the second nipple on the intake adapter for the Lutz boost gauge.
I recycled an FTE valve cover breather hose from one of the motors sitting here… When I put a catch can on, I will replace this as well.
The truck is now full of fluids and the batteries come next. Then it’s time to fire the old girl up and see just how much I will have to bleed the injectors to get it to run.
Today’s theme was reuse, reduce, recycle. I reused sme old vacuum line, the plastic T, and the line hold down clamp.
I will replace this vacuum line with fresh when it gets here from Partsouq next week. I’ll use the second nipple on the intake adapter for the Lutz boost gauge.
I recycled an FTE valve cover breather hose from one of the motors sitting here… When I put a catch can on, I will replace this as well.
The truck is now full of fluids and the batteries come next. Then it’s time to fire the old girl up and see just how much I will have to bleed the injectors to get it to run.
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- #156
After putting it all back together....I sat in the cab, turned the key....click. Again...click.
Battery load tester: 400CCA on each battery.
Out the door to Batteries Plus at 4:42pm, in their door at 4:57pm (they closed at 5!), and home by 5:20pm with 2 new Duracell Gold 840CCA batteries (27 and 27F, of which I was unaware).
Click.
F%^K.
@AlbertoSD suggested a stuck starter. I whacked it with my purse, AKA a 3/8" ratchet....and boom, cranking over. I cracked open injector line #1, and it fired right up! WOOHOO! After 2 years we are back in business. She purrs like a kitten and a light blip of the throttle torques the truck to the right. I like this.
Battery load tester: 400CCA on each battery.
Out the door to Batteries Plus at 4:42pm, in their door at 4:57pm (they closed at 5!), and home by 5:20pm with 2 new Duracell Gold 840CCA batteries (27 and 27F, of which I was unaware).
Click.
F%^K.
@AlbertoSD suggested a stuck starter. I whacked it with my purse, AKA a 3/8" ratchet....and boom, cranking over. I cracked open injector line #1, and it fired right up! WOOHOO! After 2 years we are back in business. She purrs like a kitten and a light blip of the throttle torques the truck to the right. I like this.
