Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (2 Viewers)

[gswest]

Finally got the truck back. Other than needing new brake shoes on the front, she's running well and looks much better. I'm thinking the tires which are 32" X 11.5 X 15 should be 33 X 12.5 X 15 for a meaner stance. I bought the wheels and tires with out seeing them on the truck. I have a spare 33" BFG for the 60 and it would be a better fit for this truck I think. My problem is I have about one inch clearance in height getting in my garage with the 32" tires. It will be close with the 33" tires.

 

[gswest]

I'm going to change the rear axle ratio to 3.73 from 4.11. This truck can't run on the highway with the 4 speed, and a 5 speed isn't financially possible right now. I've got a guy who will trade me his 3.73 gear for my 4.11, so that's the next thing on the list. I went to remove my steering wheel today (it was off center) and the retaining nut wouldn't come off. i had to use the impact wrench. It was hard to install the last time I put it on, so obviously now it's completely stripped. The steering shaft itself is pretty messed up, but has threads that can be cleaned up thankfully. Anybody know what size threads these are?

 

[lostmarbles]

I don't know the thread spec of the nut Scott but the part number is 90179-12086 and it's under $2 from Toyota

 

[gswest]

I ordered it from SOR for $2.50 I think Tom, but I'd like to clean up the male threads on the shaft before I re-bolt the steering wheel on. The threads are pretty much a mess. I thought i could use a tap and dye tool to do that. I'm afraid if I try to torque the new nut down , it will get stripped as well. The shaft threads are nasty at this point; I have no idea why except someone must have cross-threaded the nut at some point in the last 33 years. Luckily, this nut does nothing more than hold the wheel on the splines, but admittedly that is an important function.

 

[gswest]

I'm pretty sure its a 12 x 1.25. Thats what the inter web says. I'll have to clean up the threads first.

 

[geoffnlp]

Hey Scott, if there isn't much left to tap to the 12mm, I wonder if you should go with a smaller die to cut better threads to hold onto, 7/16ths would be around 11.1mm and you can probably pick up a nut at Lowe's or a parts store. Just a thought for better grab so you don't have it in the back of your mind, good luck.

 

[gswest]

Thanks Geoff,
Thats a good idea, especially considering the 12 X 1.25 tap and die tool is not a very common size. I'd have to buy an expensive set to get that size tool. At least that's what I'm seeing here at the local parts stores and Harbor Freight. If I had time to wait, I can order it for $20 online. I want to get it fixed today so I can take it over to the window-tint shop tomorrow. Impatience !

 

[gswest]

After cleaning up the threads a bit, I was able to get the nut to go onto the steering shaft. Disaster averted. No need to use the tap and die kit. Thank God .
Waiting on the window tint guy to finish, he's had the truck for 10 hours and Has been cussing those rear curved windows the whole time.

 

[MrMoMo]

Well, it's taken me a few days... But I just got through the whole thread. Amazing - I am blown away by the detail and can't even imagine the hours you have out into this... I've just sent my FJ40 frame out for galvanizing and will start on the body over the next few months. (Also converting it to a BJ) After it's done I get to start tearing down my FJ45 pickup (also being converted to a BJ) and I hope they come out half as good as yours has!

 

[gswest]

Thanks MrMoMo ! I spent the better part of the weekend putting new shoes on the front brakes. It ain't never over. I had to re-do the first side; after I went to do the second side, I realized I put the springs in the wrong slots on the first go-round. Now that that's done, the whole system needs to be bled again (spongy brake pedal). But on the bright side, it doesn't try to turn you into on-coming traffic when you touch the brake pedal anymore (which is nice)!

 

[gswest]

Brakes are good now, the charging system on the other hand, no good. I took the alternator off, got it checked, it was good. The battery is new, the voltage regulator is a new solid state unit from NAPA, which was recommended by Tom (thanks). But, still no juice to the battery. I've read almost every post here dealing with similar issues and the only thing I can't say I've checked is the ignition switch and the wiring from the Voltage regulator to the battery. I've looked at the fuses, the connectors, etc. If anyone has a suggestion, I'm all ears. I did take the truck to the alternator shop today and they could only confirm I had juice to the V.R. After that they were suspicious of the VR, but couldn't say it was bad. They wanted to plug a new one in, but of course, they didn't have one. I mentioned I had a new solid state unit that didn't correct the issue and they weren't convinced my new one was compatible to my system. He said that this solid state unit may not actually work on my truck. So, it didn't correct the problem because possibly it wasn't compatible. Tom uses one and I'm sure it must work, the only question is does his Engine (B) and my engine (2H) differ in the VR requirements.?? I took the original VR apart and looked at the internals (pointless exercise) since I'm clueless regarding these things. But, no obvious charring or loose wires. In the mean time it runs great for a few days before the battery dies; actually now that i know the issue, it stays on the trickle charger while I fumble around looking for clues. I haven't looked yet to see what they get for a good OEM VR, but I'd guess they aren't easily available. The wiring part is where I'm likely to investigate next.

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Scott

I'm a bit rushed for time ... so without going back in your thread, which solid-state VR did you end up getting?

You're right that I'm very happy with mine. (OEX/Repco brand). It keeps my battery charged and there's no annoying tapping/clicking noises coming through my firewall as there used to be with my original electro-mechanical VR...

Looking at the EPC again now...
It says a 1981 HJ47 should run 27700-15011 SUBS 27700-15040 ... (at least for the Australian market).
And it says my BJ40 is 27700-13010 SUBS 27700-36020

And a quick search on the Internet just now shows the Goodway website claiming 27700-15011 equates to Goodway GW-N551 or TRANSPO IN551 solid-state regulators etc



Edit couple of hours later ...

Got a bit more time now ... Searched this thread and found I gave the same info earlier (so that's nice that I'm not contradicting myself) and that you went for a NAPA version...

Does it look much like this Transpo IN551?

I might just PM Rudi/BJ40green now and see if he may be able to offer suggestions on what might be wrong here...

(I'd hate to think I may have put you crook with my advice.)

 

[MrMoMo]

Um.... Being totally unfamiliar with your exact setup I can offer the following quick easy test, with one assumption.

Your alternator has a big post where the charge power comes out (generally the "B" or "+" post) It should also have a small post where the regulator excites the field ("F" post) All the regulator does is apply 12V to the field windings to turn the alternator on. To test it, you can disconnect the regulator, and just apply 12V to the field (kind of like jumping a starter with a screw driver)

If you put 12V to the field and get no voltage out at the B post you have internal issues in the alternator, or wiring to/from or no ground for the alternator field.

If you put 12V to the field and get voltage out, you have an issue with the regulator, or wiring to/from the regulator or poser supply to the regulator, or ground for the regulator.

This is of course assuming that you have an accessible field post, and you can remove the supply to it and maintain a field ground.

Confusing?

 

[bj40green]

How to check the Voltage Regulator circuit.
This is the pin lay out from the Voltage Regulator.
This is also the pin lay out from the back of the female harness connector.

Key in the "off" position
Check with ohm meter for continuity between E on Voltage Regulator and Negative Battery post.
Reading should be 0 (zero) ohm, maybe a bit higher but less than 0.5 ohm.
If not.... you have a ground problem.
If yes, continue

Key in the "on" position. Engine NOT running.
Check with volt meter for voltage between E and IG on Voltage Regulator.
Reading should be equal to battery voltage. Maybe a bit less because of wiring losses.
I.e. If battery voltage is 11.5V, you should have the same voltage (between 11.2 and 11.5) on the E and IG terminals on the Voltage Regulator.
If not.... you have no voltage from the ignition switch. Can be as simple as a fuse or a wiring problem.
If yes, continue

Key still in the "on" position. Engine not running.
Check with volt meter for voltage between E and F on Voltage Regulator.
Reading should be equal to battery voltage. Maybe a bit less because of wiring losses.
I.e. If battery voltage is 11.5V, you should have the same voltage (between 11.2 and 11.5) on the E and F terminals on the Voltage Regulator.
If not...... Voltage Regulator is defective or there is a short to ground on the F wire.
Turn key in the "off" position.
Disconnect the Voltage Regulator.
Check with ohm meter for continuity between F on the back of the female harness connector and Negative Battery post.
Reading should be ----- or OL or ....... whatever your meter displays for no continuity.
If there is no short to ground..... Voltage Regulator is defective.
If yes, (voltage on the F terminal) continue

Re-connect VR if it was disconnected.
Turn key to the "on" position. Engine not running.
Check with volt meter for voltage on the F terminal on the Alternator.
Reading should be equal to battery voltage. Maybe a bit less because of wiring losses.
I.e. If battery voltage is 11.5V, you should have the same voltage (between 11.2 and 11.5) on the F terminal on the Alternator.
If not.... you have a wire problem between the VR and the Alternator.
If yes, continue

Start engine.
Check with volt meter for voltage on the BIG +B terminal on the alternator.
Reading should be equal to battery voltage.
Rev up the engine to 1200 - 1500 rpm
Voltage on the +B terminal on the alternator should go up in the direction of 14.4 Volt depending on the state of the battery.
If not.... defective alternator or bad or no ground between alternator and frame/battery
If yes (voltage goes up) continue

Check with voltmeter for climbing voltage on the battery when revving up the engine.
If no..... fusible link defective.
If yes.... Your charge system is OK!

Tell us where it goes wrong.

Rudi

 

[gswest]

Wow, thanks for the help guys.
Tom, the VR I got doesn't look like yours, but that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't compatible. I did order a new OEM style VR from Spector and will install it when it arrives. I'm going to run through the check list that Rudi supplied. I'll let you all know the results.
Thanks

 

[lostmarbles]

Wow, thanks for the help guys.
Tom, the VR I got doesn't look like yours, but that doesn't necessarily mean it isn't compatible. I did order a new OEM style VR from Spector and will install it when it arrives. I'm going to run through the check list that Rudi supplied. I'll let you all know the results.
Thanks

Sorry Scott ... The NAPA VR528 could never look like the Transpo IN551 because VR528 is electro-mechanical (judging from it's size) rather than being solid-state. (I had the mistaken impression you were running a solid-state one)

Hmm. The Goodway site and others do say that NAPA VR528 is a correct equivalent VR though..

Odd that neither it nor your spare solid-state VR work...

I'm interested in how this turns out!!!

 

[gswest]

The VR pictured is the NAPA unit and I thought it was solid state. Based on what your finding out, I doubt my problem is with the VR. Sucks for me since I spent $100 on a new one. In any event, I'll put the new one in when I get it, and go from there. I'll post something up when I get further in. Thanks again all.

 

[dancar]

Hey bud,

I've just gone through your thread.

That's a good idea about the pump, I'll see about the gaskets and seals. The sliding windows were a problem because nobody could get me the weather stripping. I looked everywhere. Also the inner window guides (felt material) wasn't available. They would have been very leaky. I still have the sliders and they themselves are in good shape. So, if anyone can get me the window gaskets, I'll keep them on hand.

if you're talking about the twin flocking for the sliding windows - I've previously sent some to @Folkert for his 44 restoration. I know that @lelandEOD was also looking for some too

Don't get rid of them.

Dan

 

[gswest]

Dan,
I'll hold onto them as I know some of these available gaskets/seals could be made to work with the right person doing the install. There's no question that having the rear windows able to open is a plus.

 

[gswest]

On a side note, I got a set of 3.70 diffs so I can do more than 60 mph. I'll be doing that switch next, but the electrical bugs are first on the list. It doesn't matter how fast you can go when your rig is dead on the side of the road. >>

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