That's your speedo cable
Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter gswest
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- Thread starter
- #722
Yep, speedo.
ok thanks because currently mine is not attached to anything
That rig is so Sweet!
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- #725
I had a leaky fuel injector nozzle, so in trying to remove the leaky injector, I bent the leakage pipe. No mater how hard I tried, when I turned that nut that holds the leakage pipe down, the leakage pipe turned with it which distorted the connection pipe. Finally I gave up trying to save the leakage assembly and cut it up to aid removal. That was a $80 mistake, but there didn't seam to be any way to get the nut off without screwing up the leakage pipes. Maybe there's a secret technique?? Also, I got the door window gasket trimmed correctly and re-installed as was pointed out by 1tontoy here, thanks. T
- Thread starter
- #726
I apologize for the way these photos appear. This new and improved web site program seems to have gone backwards with the change -over!
Wow impressive
I just read everything
Beautiful and inspiring
How do you sleep at night being this close ????
I just read everything
Beautiful and inspiring
How do you sleep at night being this close ????
- Thread starter
- #728
Thanks. It's been a journey; if I didn't enjoy seeing the slow but steady progress, I would have gone crazy by now.
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- #729
We got the rest of the glass in.
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- #730
After destroying the injection leakage pipe on my first attempt at removing the leaking injector, I ordered and installed a new nozzle seat and new nozzle seat gasket with the new (used ) leakage pipe ; it still leaked. All the other injectors are fine. The fuel line itself isn't leaking, it's coming from the injector holder or nozzle holder body. Or possibly the nozzle seat gasket was put in upside down? The motor runs great, but fuel is slowly dripping down onto the fuel injection pump and onto the floor. If anyone has experienced this issue, let me know how you dealt with it. Taking one injector out requires quite a bit of labor. I did however discover that you must hold the retaining nut or nozzle holder with a wrench before turning the leakage pipe retaining nut. If you don't and the nozzle holder turns with the leakage pipe retaining nut, you will distort the leakage pipe tube and find out they don't make the leakage pipes anymore! I'm on my second used leakage pipe, $100! Learning as I go is getting expensive.
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- #731
I have finally got the roof down from the ceiling and taken it to the guys down in Hobe Sound (Stoneys). Now the roof rack hangs from the ceiling.
They're going to repair the rust and seal the gutter section so it won't rust anytime soon. Then they will paint it and install the headliner I got from S.O.R. Once that's done I'll take the truck down there and they will install the roof back on. I'm still dealing with fuel nozzle leaks. I got the one leaker fixed only to find 2 other injectors leaking. Every time I take the fuel pipes and the leakage pipe off I seem to create more possibilities for issues. But what else can you do but remove, check for issues and reinstall with new gaskets. Albert, the owner of Stoney's, mentioned the fuel pipe flange as a possible cause. They obviously have to be very smooth with no gouges or scratches. At this point, I've become an expert on removing the fuel pipes and leakage pipe. Step one: take out the battery, step two: loosen the throttle body, step three: loosen the heater pipe, step 4: remove the fuel pipes and securing hardware, step five: remove all six leakage pipe securing nuts (using 2 wrenches so as not to distort or turn the leakage pipe), step six: remove the leakage pipe, and finally one can remove the fuel injector nozzles. I've done it 5 times!
Hell. That must be annoying..
So it is these washers here that are giving you trouble? (I've circled one in red.)
Do yours look the same as mine here?
I'm wondering if perhaps yours are too hard to seal. I didn't have any problem with mine and I think they were just soft aluminium.
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- #733
Yes Tom, those may be the issue, but also the fuel pipe flanges could have been scored or scratched when they were removed and re-installed several times recently. I'm going to remove the pipes and those aluminum seals once again and inspect the flanges on the 2 leaking pipes, polish them a bit with my dremel tool, then install 2 new washers (that you have pictured). Those aluminum washers probably should be replaced each time you open the system??
What a pain this has been. She runs great, but leaks. And at $4 a gallon, diesel pouring on the ground gets costly.
What a pain this has been. She runs great, but leaks. And at $4 a gallon, diesel pouring on the ground gets costly.
- Thread starter
- #734
Well, the fuel leakage problem has been solved. The shop that rebuilt or serviced my injectors and fuel injection pump, apparently did a substandard job on the fuel injectors. After returning the offending nozzles, they were re-sealed and no more leaks. For anyone dealing with injectors that have been worked on; if they leak when you re-install them, start by taking them back to the shop. My time and effort trying to solve this issue was huge and in the end everything I had done was fine, the part was bad. It never occurred to me that the shop screwed up. OH well, lesson learned. The owner of Radd Cruisers up in Victoria BC mentioned that the nozzles weren't seated correctly by the shop, and he said take em back. I did and I'm off to the next issue. Thanks guys!
Also, I'm assembling the parts to convert my truck to power steering. Not a cheap or simple modification, but so far I have the pump, the reservoir, the bracket which is incorporated into the motor mount and the pulley. I need the pulley hub and the power steering box. I'm sure there are a few other items that will be needed as well as some modification to the steering shaft itself. The guys who are working on my roof (Stoney's) have a power
steering box off a right hand drive 60 series that they think will work. We'll see.
Also, I'm assembling the parts to convert my truck to power steering. Not a cheap or simple modification, but so far I have the pump, the reservoir, the bracket which is incorporated into the motor mount and the pulley. I need the pulley hub and the power steering box. I'm sure there are a few other items that will be needed as well as some modification to the steering shaft itself. The guys who are working on my roof (Stoney's) have a power
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
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Might want to rebuild the pump while it is out. The kit of gaskets and rings to do the rebuild isn't too expensive. My pump seems anemic.
Curious, what happened to the sliding side windows?
- Thread starter
- #737
That's a good idea about the pump, I'll see about the gaskets and seals. The sliding windows were a problem because nobody could get me the weather stripping. I looked everywhere. Also the inner window guides (felt material) wasn't available. They would have been very leaky. I still have the sliders and they themselves are in good shape. So, if anyone can get me the window gaskets, I'll keep them on hand.
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- #738
Turns out the PS pump is supposed to already be rebuilt. I'm waiting on a few other parts for it including the pulley. But in the mean time i'm trying to determine why my oil pressure is maxed out on the gauge and oil is leaking in various places that it wasn't leaking before. I changed the oil pressure relief valve and spring in hopes of rectifying the issue, but no luck. I'm thinking the high oil pressure is pushing oil through some of the seals, but the leak may not even be related the high gauge reading. I need to mechanically check the pressure I guess.
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- #739
Ok, The oil pressure sending unit was for a non-oil cooler type 2H and mine has the integrated oil cooler, so the sending unit wasn't calibrated correctly and showed a high reading. How'd i find this out? Simple, I re-installed my old sending unit and the pressure reading came down to normal. The original 33 year old unit works but the connector is damaged so I replaced it. I didn't read the SOR description closely enough and ordered the wrong sending unit. $50 wasted. If anyone wants a sending unit for a non-oil cooler 2H, you can have this one cheap. (Which 2H engines didn't have the oil cooler? The early ones I'd guess?) So, now I know the pressure is normal and my oil leak is not related to the oil pressure. The oil leak is not life threatening, but I'll have to solve it, otherwise the undercarriage will be covered in oil which negates the purpose of the frame off work. Oh, and I replaced my NAPA oil filter before i changed out the sending unit thinking possibly that it was the oil over-pressure issue, but it turned out not to make any difference, so the sending unit was the next thing on the list of culprits.
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- #740
I got a new sending unit from Cruiserparts.net and it works perfectly, so that issue is taken care of. I did a valve adjustment today and have that off the list. When I had the head off, I had a shop do a valve job and check the head for warpage. When I re-installed it of course the valves were adjusted cold. So, now that its running I opted to re-adjust them after I got it up to normal operating temperature. For anyone new to doing valve adjustments, I recommend that you jack one rear tire up and put it in 4th gear so as to make it easy to turn the motor over to get to TDC. I mistakenly jacked both rear wheels up and was perplexed on why the drive shaft didn't turn when I rotated a rear wheel. That only shows my lack of true knowledge on the way the axles work, but we figured it out eventually. I installed my Tini-tach digital tachometer and am very pleased that the engine is starting and running great.
