Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (3 Viewers)

[gswest]

Plastic top

Hey look how all the residual oil went into that plastic liner instead of all over the table. I'm impressed with myself. But to be truthfull, that thing has been a pain in the #%&.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Since you have it all apart, putting new bearings in is not a whole lot more work or expense. You will need pullers and a press to do the job, but it's not too difficult.

I would suggest that the main oil seal on the tranny ouput shaft is worth replacing with an OEM seal (I am guessing you may have bought an aftermarket seal/gasket set for the transfer case). The manual helps in putting those seals in as it show you the correct depth to which to push the seal. With a new seal on the tranny output shaft, you could remove that aftermarket oil transfer hose.

I would suggest that you check the output shaft to the p. brake for wear. Even with a new seal it seems to be a common place for leaks to develop, and oil passing through there will foul the p. brake.

Otherwise, keep up the good work!

 

[gswest]

Thanks for the suggestions on the bearings and seals.

 

[gswest]

It's apart

I did find some sandblasting residue in the transfer case where it meets up with the tranny. It was in a couple of bearings, so I may be replacing them. I'll probably get a machine shop to press them on. Everything else looks good to me, one of the bearing races looks gone, so that needs to be replaced.

 

[gswest]

Scored race

Hows this look to you bearing experts? Is this actually a race or just the carrier? Maybe this scoring isn't an issue. Someone chime in and help a weekend mechanic.

 

[gswest]

Bearing carrier

A better pic of the carrier. The scoring may not be an issue, no?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

That retainer race doesn't look too good. I'd replace the race and bearing, and it's easy to do on the retainer since it is aluminum. You just heat it up in a pot of water and the difference in expansion rates will enable the race to be popped out easily.

 

[gswest]

Thanks Henry!

 

[lostmarbles]

That retainer race doesn't look too good. I'd replace the race and bearing, and it's easy to do on the retainer since it is aluminum. You just heat it up in a pot of water and the difference in expansion rates will enable the race to be popped out easily.

x 2

The image suggests strongly to me too that that entire bearing needs replacing. (You don't replace parts of a bearing - like a single race ... You always replace the entire thing.)

And if ones gone .... Personally I'd automatically replace the lot.

 

[gswest]

I'm ordering the bearing kit from SOR, I think, unless theres a better source here in the states. Its a couple hundred $ from them.

 

[gswest]

Tranny top cover

Is there something I'm missing? I can't get the tranny top cover off.The manual doesn't make it clear to this idiot how to get it off after removing the shifter plate and the bolts to the cover.
Don't tell me I have to take the shift fork assembly apart first.

 

[lostmarbles]

I'm ordering the bearing kit from SOR, I think, unless theres a better source here in the states. Its a couple hundred $ from them.

Most bearings and seals are generic. ......... Meaning .... They are not specific to particular vehicles or even specific to Toyota.

In my opinion, reputable brands such as SKF, Toyo, Timken, NSK, etc etc are all near-enough as good as each other.

The only time I think specifying a particular brand could become important is when a bearing or seal is "at the limit of its performance capability" and this situation is usually the result of "poor engineering" (eg. asking the bearing to carry an upper-limit load at an upper-limit rpm) which is not something that Toyota is generally recognised for.

So if it was me I'd just get the numbers of the existing bearings/seals (or ... measure them up, or ... take them in as samples) and get replacements from the nearest reputable bearing/seal supplier.

You can save a heap of $ that way and it doesn't compromise anything IMO.

My 2c.

 

[gswest]

Top cover pics

Ok, i'm going to look for bearings before i drop the 200$ from SOR.
Here's the top cover pic. I tried pulling this thing off, and it ain't coming off. I must have to disassemble something else first??

 

[1tontoy]

If you do end up buying a bearing kit, get it from a MUD vendor. Kurt at cruiseroutfitters.com comes to mind - he has the kits, its a pleasure to deal with, and his prices are as good as it gets.

Regarding the top plate, was it in neutral when you pulled the shifter? The top plate should just pop off - might need to hit with a rubber mallet.

And x2 on replacing the bearing races. In general, always replace the race, too.

Looking great! Keep up the work!

 

[gswest]

Thanks bro, I'll get with Cruiseroutfitters for the bearings. That's where I got my shocks and Kurt (I think) was great.

 

[gswest]

Got the cover off

Had to use a little persuasion, but the tranny top cover finally came off, so thats as far as i'm going with it for now. Clean it, paint it and wait for the bearings for the transfercase.

 

[gswest]

Painted some parts

I ordered the bearing kit from Cruiser outfitters and Kurt was a great help. I got a tranny gasket set also. He helped me out with the shocks a while back and his prices are very fair.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks again for the order. I'm very impressed by your build, you have done some great work! :coo:

 

[gswest]

Thanks Kurt

I painted the Bell housing so I guess I have to install the new clutch parts. I'm thinking i don't have to resurface the flywheel, it looks pretty good and the local shops here don't seem to do that very often. Am I right that if the surface isn't scored I'm good to reinstall everything? If you run a fingernail on the surface you can't feel any scratches or wear lines.

 

[gswest]

Flywheel

Heres a pic of the flywheel. My local shop apparently never resurfaces these things becuase he didn't even know who does it in my area, although he knew machine shops would be able to help me out. I'm thinking it's not necesary but I'm not a real mechanic.