Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (4 Viewers)

[lostmarbles]

I'm not a fan of clearcoating polished objects (especially any of your aluminium) Gwest.

In my opinion, peeling/deterioration of any clearcoat system doesn't take long to start happenning.... and from then on it all just gets uglier and uglier.

Whereas I think periodically spraying and wiping with something like a lanolin-product can keep it all looking good (with any corrosion easily removed using products like "Autosol" if you want to maintain the "jewellery appearance").

 

[gswest]

Thanks. Clear coating at this point is probably not going to happen, so I'll go with the autosol or similar product to attempt to maintain the sparkle. I did read on a professional metal polishing website that clear coating was not recommended and unnecessary if the metal was properly polished. These parts aren't polished to that level (I did the best I could with hand tools). If you can get the metal to the point that there aren't any pits or blemishes, then it won't collect as much grime, and a good carnuaba wax is all that's needed to keep it nice. I do agree that the powder coating method would be the best way to do the clear coat though.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

After days of trying to line up all the timing marks, I finally realised the #2 idler gear was off one tooth. So i took it off and reinstalled it in the correct position. Then everything lined up.

Hard to see from the computer but it looks as if our timing marks are out one tooth?


Rob

 

[gswest]

Thr first photo shows the timing off one tooth. I realised the idler gear was the culprit and realigned it. the second photo shows everything lined up. It's hard to see the marks in that photo.

 

[gswest]

Exhaust manifold w/ turbo install

I got the exhaust manifold with the TurboGlide turbo back on the motor. there are a few plumbing items yet to put together, but its time for the waterpump and A/C compressor bracketry. I cleaned up the altenator/vacuum pump after I found out my local altenator shop said they couldn't get parts for it. It worked fine, but I was hoping they could go thru it and make it look new. Instead, I hit it with a wire wheel and will hope for the best. It looks 100% better than it did. Rebuilt ones are $400 or more from SOR. I didn't want to take this one apart since it was working well and I don't have any seals or gaskets to put back in if I destroy them. I can get a rebuild kit from SOR for the vacuum pump. It's $130-$140 I believe. I'm waiting until it fails.

 

[gswest]

Waterpump and thermostat housing installed

I checked the thermostat before I reinstalled it by putting it in a pot of water and heating it to near boiling. I think I purchased it in the last 12 months. The waterpump was replaced as well, I got that from RooDogs quite a while ago and finally got it in. I painted the vacuum pump trying to make it look newer than 30 years old; I think I only took 10 years off it's appearance, so it wasn't a complete success. I'll hit it again with the dremel tool before installing it. This has become slightly obsessive.

 

[gswest]

Tub sandblasted

I went to the body shop today to see the progress on the sand blasting. Not too many surprises, but the cowl section will be tough/expensive to repair. I'm looking for a replacement piece for the front top cowl section. Otherwise, there is quite a bit of time and labor involved in removing all the rust and getting the finished product to look correct. Anyone know of a source for these replacement panels. I've called SOR and Real Steel, so far not looking too good. The whole cowl section is available, but that's way too much $$ just to correct that small area where the two body panels seal. I took a few pictures to show the damaged areas. My shop can fix it, just time consuming and $$ consuming.

 

[lostmarbles]

I'd get them to repair the rust holes and weld the entire seam while they're at it. (It'll NEVER open up from rust ever again once it's welded and you won't have to rely on sealant-life.)

Heck it's not that difficult. It's even within my capabilities because I've done that very same thing on my BJ40.

I put a nice smooth radius-curve on that long seam-joint using a dremel-type tool to smooth-off the weld bead. And it looks better than factory IMO.





I reckon you've got minimal rust there for a 30 year-old vehicle and for such a rust-prone area of the vehicle.

 

[gswest]

I agree, welding the entire seam is the only remedy

I'll probably go your route Lostmarbles. Even if I found a repair patch (which seems unlikely here in the states) the time and effort would exceed the cost of just cleaning it up and welding it.
I'm making the decision tomorrow. I did get the A/C bracket installed as well as the alternator/vacuum pump. I'm ordering a new A/C compressor tomorrow. Also got the bellhousing back from the blaster.

 

[waiting for time]

I went to the body shop today to see the progress on the sand blasting. Not too many surprises, but the cowl section will be tough/expensive to repair. I'm looking for a replacement piece for the front top cowl section. Otherwise, there is quite a bit of time and labor involved in removing all the rust and getting the finished product to look correct. Anyone know of a source for these replacement panels. I've called SOR and Real Steel, so far not looking too good. The whole cowl section is available, but that's way too much $$ just to correct that small area where the two body panels seal. I took a few pictures to show the damaged areas. My shop can fix it, just time consuming and $$ consuming.

You can solder it with copper, braising, less heat, easyer to rework and it wont rust.

 

[gswest]

Pulleys and fan clutch

Waiting on the new A/C compressor. We still haven't decided on the repair method for the cowl section. In the end, getting the used cowl section from SOR may be the best choice, but the bodyshop wants to step back and make sure thats the best approach. It was going to be around $400 for the used cowl and who knows how much to make it work. So, I'm OK with the idea that they're going slow here.

 

[Chamba]

Seems to me that if you are goign to all that trouble to put a new cowl on, it is the perfect time to convert to LHD. That opens a whole plethora of power steering options, etc.

Otherwise, I'd just weld the seam.

The engine looks great!

Josh

 

[gswest]

Cowl

We've decided against the cowl replacement idea (too much money). So, the bad seam will be welded up and repaired that way. I would like power steering though. But, like upgrading to a 5 speed; it will have to wait until a later day. If I could do all the body work myself, I probably could have afforded the 5 speed and power steering upgrades now. Unfortunately, the rust removal, paint work and other improvements have me tapped out. My compromise for the 5 speed might be taller tires and maybe 3.7 gears, as I've read about here. The compromise for the power steering is a new upper body workout regimen.

 

[gswest]

Tub is in primer

I got some pics of the tub in primer. Next is some more rust removal and panel smoothing. I found a good engine hoist today on Craigs list. 2 ton foldable $100. My buddy loaned me his to take the motor out, but it was not something I could store in my garage, so I sent it back to him when I got the motor out. I couldn't bring myself to ask him to trailer that huge thing back over here.

 

[gswest]

Hoist

This thing is great, it fit it a corner and takes almost no space.

 

[gswest]

Engine install

I got to use my new hoist today and am close to installing the 2H back into the frame.

 

[gswest]

New clutch kit and Radiator parts

It's like Christmas everytime I see the UPS truck. Then I see the bill and then it's not quite as festive,,,, but it's like Christmas !!!

 

[gswest]

Rear main seal

I got the rear main seal in but damaged my new pilot bearing trying to put it in. I used a block of wood and hammer which bent part of it making it useless. I got one ordered and have to wait for that to get moving on the clutch install.

 

[gswest]

Pilot bearing removal tool

I used this gadget which i got to pull some sticky lifters out of another engine (3FE). It worked like a charm taking out the old pilot bearing. A pick of the destroyed bearing and the new rear main seal.

 

[gswest]

Rear engine support ??

I have the motor resting on the motor mounts but what's the best way to support the rear of the motor until I have the transmission connected? The oil pan can't support that kind of weight, right? I've seen people with jacks under there, but I don't know where you would place it. I could leave it hanging from the hoist, but I'd like to get some space opened up in front there.