crushers
post ho
but, at least he will know where the leak is...
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but, at least he will know where the leak is...
Exactly Wayne, mush easier to spot. Its easier to suck air than push a liquid, so if you have weeping areas under positive pressure I would be more than inclined to think it is sucking air under vacuum.
Thats a pathetic lifeline Wayne
Have you considered it maybe the increased pressure from the pusher pump that is causing the leak in the 1st place?
After all,the fuel lines are designed to have vacuum inside them rather than pressure.
Thats a pathetic lifeline Wayne
Have you considered it maybe the increased pressure from the pusher pump that is causing the leak in the 1st place?
After all,the fuel lines are designed to have vacuum inside them rather than pressure.
what? you are ranting about how no one "needs" a pusher pump. i agreed.
you carry on ranting away on some guy about installing one to over come an air leak.
i just said, and it does make sense, that he will be able to find his air leak now. ... it was said in fun, a joke, sillyness.
sheesh, Rosco, all these years and i have never seen you so passionate about something.
relax, its a friggin pump. not life or death buddy.
I don't have an air leak, all my lines are new, the pickup is new and the pump has been rebuilt.
The truck does however suffer from a problem that has been discussed here before several times, which no one could come up with a satisfactory solution so far:
If the truck faces upwards a steep slope, my idle drops from the regular 750rpm to 400. I do not understand that-what is your opinion of that? Could you maybe even ask your pump guy, I'd very much appreciate this.
If a pusher pump can solve the problem, I'd be willing to go that way. Otherwise I agree that such a pump makes little sense.
thanks,
Jan
I have replaced all the fuel lines and clamps. In really cold weather (below -30°C), without the electric fuel pump, I had major problems getting the engine started. I could not find any leaks.
After installing the electric pump just before my fuel filter (I installed it outside with -25°C ambient so easier under the hood), I no longer have starting problems. And I still do not have any leaks. The electric pump ticks away a few times when I turn on the key, then it is invisible.
The way I see it is the lift pump pulls the fuel from the tank. Installing the electric pump near the IP would just do the same thing. And it has worked fine for me so I have not changed it. $85 plus some of my time was all it took to cure a problem. Maybe it's better installed at the tank, but it works this way for me.
Passionate?? Your the one who has been recommending owners fit a pusher pump for years now,even though you freely admit there is no evidence a Denso rotary pump suffers from fuel starvation or any other deficency.
Ive seen this problem on 1HD Ts 3-4 times and I think its something to do with a sloppy spring on the governor or maybe the flyweights.
I asked others who have had this problem to come back and inform us if thats was the problem but they never do.
Its seems unique to the 1HD T.
Some of the others tried adding a pusher pump and it did not solve the problem.
Under 1200 rpm these pumps are in a different mode when charging the fuel in the plunger,it may have something to do with that.
If you think its starved of fuel on a uphill slope ,you could try disconnecting the fuel return hose(at the pump).If there is fuel coming out ,the pump must be full as it is at the highest point of the pump.
Or you could fit a pressure gauge to the pump at the spot outlined in the manual and test the internal pressure of the pump to satisfy yourself it has the correct pressure.
Thats my argument ,if the fuel pumps full ,you dont need a pusher pump.
If a pusher pump does help,then you have a problem with your feed pump or the regulator valve needs adjustment.
Thanks Rosco.
I don't think it's starve of fuel, since it is always 400rpm, no matter how steep the hill is. Also, the truck responds perfectly well to the throttle and idles up easily with the a/c idle up.
I really just want to find out what the problem is, more out of interest than necessity. would you mind asking your pump guy when the opportunity arises?
I think I'll pass on the pusher for now and focus on solving the problem, not patching it.
cheers,
jan
I would love to go down to the diesel shop and pick their brains but unless you are spending a $1000 they dont have time.
I was down there the other day to ask about a pump I had rebuilt 4 years ago and kept as a spare.
I got a 10 second response that it would still be clean inside and he was back off to his pile of 1HZ pumps from the mines.
What happens if you turn the idle up or adjust the hand throttle?
Does it idle too high on the flat?
I mentioned the springs in the governor before because its the only thing I can think of that would be affected by gravity and when idling it has no load on it.
The other thing that maybe affecting it is the amount of fuel that is being metered into the plunger when it is charging.
Page FU89 in the FSM may give you some insight ,but you would need the right tools and a heck of a lot of know how to fathom it all.
There is also a simplified explanation of how the rotary fuel pumps works at idle with a diagram here.
See "Metering fuel-idle"
VE Injection Pump Function and Operation - DieselRam.com
specialty diesel performance sites llike dieselbombers ,engforum, dieselpowermag, competitiondiesel, etc ,etc give u the answers .
You can always find something of use on any site,but most of the posts on here are for Toyota diehards,like the intricate differences between the various Toyota B or H diesels ,or how many teeth early and late 1HZ have on the timing belt.Pickup information u are seekn & any advice & move on , i have been on those sites before, most are generally really good ,
some have toyota areas too ,just like ih8mud does with other brands,