TBI Swap

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I believe there is process where you connect fuel pressure guage....turn key on....read fuel pressure, turn key off, and wait for a period of time...if the pressure is not maintained for some period of time it points to a fuel pressure regulator issue. Check manaul for process/ steps.

Parts can fail at any time, some times there is no rhyme or reason as to the issue. On fuel injection you have to make sure you don't have any issues with pressure and delivery before looking at someting else under no-start.
 
I still think you may have made an error with regard to the oil pressure switch. This would have been threaded into the back of the block towards the drivers side, pointing up. It is through this switch that the fuel pump gets it's power once the motor is running. The fuel pump relay primes the system, but that is all. This can be bypassed for testing, but as I recall, you wouldn't want to leave it that way as it the pump would run constantly. One other thing you should check is for power at the injectors while cranking and/or running. The computer grounds the injector circuits, so there will be power at each injector when you are in the crank or run positions of the ignition switch. Assuming you used a relay for these circuits (I hope you did) it would then be dependant on the source of power you used from the Land Cruiser to activate that relay. You need one that is hot in both the "on" and "crank" positions of the ignition switch.
 
lehiguy said:
I still think you may have made an error with regard to the oil pressure switch. This would have been threaded into the back of the block towards the drivers side, pointing up. It is through this switch that the fuel pump gets it's power once the motor is running. The fuel pump relay primes the system, but that is all. This can be bypassed for testing, but as I recall, you wouldn't want to leave it that way as it the pump would run constantly. One other thing you should check is for power at the injectors while cranking and/or running. The computer grounds the injector circuits, so there will be power at each injector when you are in the crank or run positions of the ignition switch. Assuming you used a relay for these circuits (I hope you did) it would then be dependant on the source of power you used from the Land Cruiser to activate that relay. You need one that is hot in both the "on" and "crank" positions of the ignition switch.
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And you need to make sure they both see more than just 12 volts under higher than idle RPM. I got that one on this last TBI I installed.
 
When you guys took power for the ecm and distributor where did you take it from? this might be a really dumb mistake on my part. I took it from the wire feeding the old ignition system i'm wondering if this isn't enough to power the injectors ecm and distributor any thoughts?
 
in my case I have an aftermarket wiring harness... it has two power leads that connect to the starter for power. I use wire that use to feed coil for a ign signal...not to power anything, it only tells the fans and the ECM when the IGN is on, it does not provide power. My setup is a little different from the TBI...but would suggest you use the power wire that feed the coil as a tirgger on a relay to provide good 12/volt power to your ECM and distributor. My harnes has built in power connectors. THis may be your issue.

You only want power to the distributor when IGN is on (your coill wire) test it with a test light and you can verfity that...turn key on...power to coil wire, turn key off no power. So use that as your trigger... Run some decent sizied wire off either the battery or off the starter...to a simple relay and have your coil wire be the trigger to then feed power over to the ECM and Distributor. Does your wiring harness not have a (+) feed for power built in?

Yes...you need to make changes on wiring in that regard. You need some fuses inline to protect your gear..
 
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Went through the wiring The harness I have was custom made so that really shoudn't be a problem. I put a relay for the coil and relay for the computer cleaned up all the wiring installed the transfer case and adapter. I should have a driveshaft on monday.. but It sitll wont keep running. I took apart the fuel pressure regulator and cleaned everything but it didin't really make a difference. I can keep it running if I float the throttle quickly on and off but not very well. I'm really starting to doubt this fuel pump even though its brand new. If I can't figure it out I'll probably take it to aztpi here and see if they can figure it out.
 
I can understand your delmia.... happens to us all.

I doubt its the fuel pump....a simple pressure test will validate that...I assume you did that and verfited the regulator is not an issue.

When I get stuck on a GM issue I have to go talk to my old buddies that I use to work with years ago...at the local GM shop. I also have a friend who is a toyota mechanic.

On the face of things...where you have spark and fuel you should start...given you don't have any trouble codes set, and given your harness is good.

I had all kind of issues with my swap...to include an ECM that did not work right with my specific harness which drove me crazy, issues with cooling, electric fan controller went up in smoke,

I know the shop manual gives you steps to look for under a no-start condition.

It might be helpful to go to the painless web site, find their wiring harness for you application and see if you can download the install manual that shows the different required connections and then make sure your harness has all of this.
 
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It runs

Today I cleaned up the injectors a little and she started right up . It still kills after about 10 seconds but I didn't clean the injectors to well, i'm going to drop them off at aztpi and let them clean them properly for me. If i give it a little gas once and a while or hold the throttle just slightly it runs great. It actually idles very nicely as well but after about ten seconds it will lose fuel if you don't give it a little help. I think after I get the injectors clean I should be set. Hopefully I get my driveshaft tomorrow and I'll take it for a spin. Its always the simple stuff that gets ya, I changed all those parts and it was just a sticky injector. I'll post up some pictures after tommorrow If I can get the crossmember finished and the drive shaft on. It feels good to be close finally. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and input it helped out a lot.
 
Little update got my drive shaft back and my power steering hose made. I also fabbed up some exhaust tonight. I'll pick up a cat and a muffler tomorrow i'm tempted to run true dual exhaust but will probably settle for a flow master with two outlets as it really won't do much for me on this settup other than be cool to say I have. My rear transmission mount was sheared so The new one will arrive tomorrow as well as clean injectors ready to be picked up. As soon as the mount arrives i'll fab up a cross member and I'm a throttle linkage away from the first test drive. I'll post up some picks when I back it out of my messy garage. This was quite a project and a good learning expierence but has been fun at the same time.

LehiGuy what did you use for your throttle linkage?

Elbert is the vortec similar to a tbi?
 
A 5.7 vortec is similar to a TBI only with the short block assembly. The cylinder heads are a gread deal improved, and of course the intake and associated sensors are different as well as the fuel injection. TBI is by far a simpler setup. I don't think you really have room to run true dual exhaust, you might want to look into a dual in dual out mangaflow or flowmaster muffler (1 single muffler). That's what I ran on my 92K1500 with TBI and I also use on my 60. If you have to pass inpsectio or smog test, then you'll have to run exhaust similar to stock.
 
Kurtis said:
Little update got my drive shaft back and my power steering hose made. I also fabbed up some exhaust tonight. I'll pick up a cat and a muffler tomorrow i'm tempted to run true dual exhaust but will probably settle for a flow master with two outlets as it really won't do much for me on this settup other than be cool to say I have. My rear transmission mount was sheared so The new one will arrive tomorrow as well as clean injectors ready to be picked up. As soon as the mount arrives i'll fab up a cross member and I'm a throttle linkage away from the first test drive. I'll post up some picks when I back it out of my messy garage. This was quite a project and a good learning expierence but has been fun at the same time.

LehiGuy what did you use for your throttle linkage?

Elbert is the vortec similar to a tbi?
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I used a Lokar throttle cable assembly and I made an upward loop out of it, much like the stock TBI setup you would find in a stock Chevy pickup. I welded the bracket that used to be my throttle lock to the peddle assembly and used that to pull the cable. I drilled a hole in the firewall in the appropriate location and used the adjuster from the Lokar kit in that hole. It has been working well for the last 105K miles.
 
I used a lokar cable too. I wonder why you could not use a regular GM throttle cable out of something like pickup or youkon?
 
I ended up just using the lokar cable worked pretty well. At this point I just have the exhaust coming off the headers up to where it will y into the cat and it sure is a different sound with a v8 I fabbed up a crossmember and picked up all the parts I had out. I got close to a test drive tonight but forgot i haven't hooked up the transmission cooler so I'll hook that up and bolt up the crossmember tommorrow and see what happens.
 
Little update. It runs i'm an idiot and had the fuel lines hooked up backwards this whole time. I took apart the TBI and for the life of me couldn't figure out how a regulator at the inlet would maintain fuel presssure, and then finally I got it.. it wasn't the inlet. Swtiched the lines around and its running great. I'll update with pictures tommorrow and a list of all the stuff I bought for the swap if anyone else is thinking about a swap. I took it for a drive and it sounds mean, I only have 2 straight pipes coming off the manifolds right now and I hafl wish It could stay that way but I'll finish up the exhaust tomorrrow. It didn't shift out of 1st gear but then I remembered I hadn't installed the vss and the 4l60e uses that to shift. I didn't get out of first gear but the difference is incredible annd this is'nt a monster of an engine by any means. That 315 lbs of torque feels nice.
 
sometimes the simple things bite you in the @$$..
 
Just about Done

The swap is pretty much done I drive it every day now about 50 miles to work and school. I put some new 35 Inch KM2s on it and love it. I ordered the ruff stuff kit to spring it over and it just got here so I'll do that in the next week or two but heres some pictures. It passed Emissions no problem. The only thing left is hooking up the heater core and a/c. I made mistake when I had the a/c lines made I forget chevy's ports are in line not on the compressor but other than that its great.
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few more pics

Hers a few more The computer I ran under the front seat.
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