ok...someone correct me if I"m wrong but the first pic with red circle looks like the temp sensor the ECM uses to read coolant temp, or what's left of that sensor. The first pic shows the temp sender that feeds the temp guage in the cluster....threads into drivers side cylinder head.
What do you have circled in the last picture?... I don't recall anything going there? Is that a open plug or a plugged hole? Hard to tell by pic.
The Third is an unplugged hole in the intake manifold runner it looks like. Is this something to do with the heater core? If you look at the second picture in the top right corner there is a threaded female connection I'm trying to figure out as well. Is that the vaccuum for the brake booster? You were right on with the first and second I bought that sensor today as long as the fuel line connections. That place you told me about the fuel pump is actually located down the street from me a few miles so I'll stop by there monday after work.
There is a port on the rear of the intake for brake booster vaccum. I sold my 92K1500 or I would simply go outside at look at it. I think that threaded connection is the port for brake booster vaccum.
I don't recall anything on the third pic. I'll look around on the shop manual I have somewhere and see what it may show.
If you have any friends...with a TBI pickup around that same year, you can simply look at theirs for a reference. TBI 350 went in all type of GM trucks, SUV's in those years.. Also was in caprice, roadmaster...
I checked the junk yard and everything is missing the intake so no help there. I think I might have a friend who has a TBI pickup sitting somewhere with a blown tranny I can take a look at.
I think they must have changed cruise control units in 92...because my truck had cruise (K1500) but did not have the vaccum pot type... I think it had the (for lack of a better word) black box control. Good pics..should be helpful. I think you can buy the brake booster hose fairly inexpensive...as I recall it went from the hard line to a rubber hose that just fit a large type plastic nipple fitting on the brake booster. You might have some luck finding that in a junk yard if so inclined.
I think you most likely could use the throttle cable off a similar pickup or SUV to adapt to the LC.
I would advise not to use any of the small platic hose from the GM engine for vaccum. Known to crack and cause issues with check engine light. Once I did away with mine for the EGR solonoid and valve I had no further problems, I just used old school rubber vaccum hose.
Thanks for those pics that is a big help. So as far as that hole I will plug it. Speaking of the vaccuum hoses half of them I broke when I put on new intake gaskets so its good to know I can just use some rubber hose. I'll probably be close if not ready to crank it over tommorrow and test out at least hte motor.
I made it to the junkyard today and all I can say is it sure beats getting all this stuff at the parts store. For $31 and some change I walked out with a transmission cooler oil cooler 2 vssb/drac speed buffer units and the wiring pigtail for the coil to the harness and tach as well as the wiring from coil to distributor. I had $240 bugeted for all of these little items so I'm happy how that turned out. I picked up a good set of plug wires and went down to Arizona TPI and bought a fuel pump setup and the fuel fittings. This wasn't cheap at $220 just for my fuel setup but I really liked the guys down there great service and they know their stuff. The pump was around $130 and $40 more for the kit with a filter before and after. The fittings were around $40 but they do look cool. They are a pretty good source for anything TBI/TPI up to LS engine related and very willing to answer any questions. I can't wait to get this thing going and I ended up being able to take tommorrow off so It should run. I am still waiting on advance adaptors but I can at least get everything in and running ready to go for the transfer case.
The KA rule for pre- OBD II is that what is on the engine stays on the engine and what is one the chassis stays on the chassis unless something on the engine renders it obsolete. I read somewhere that the canisters are sized to the fuel tank capacity. If the OE canister is still working I'd use it.
As far as wiring the starter I get the starter gets power from the battery one wire comes from my old wiring to the solenoid but what goes to the other solinoid connection? can I just bring 12v to this it seems to be something for a neutral safety switch correct?
This is Killing me.. So as far as the starter goes the old toyota only had 2 connections? as far as I can tell. The new chevy has 1 for the positive cable and two others. Do I need something on both of these...? I would think just to test out the starter I would just need the one hooked up. Any advice/pictures would be much appreciated this thing is pretty much ready to finish the rest of the wiring if I can get this figured otu.
So I tested my starter and its good there is power there from the land cruiser wire. When the old starter wrie from the land cruiser is connected to the starter and I turn the key the battery meter drops all the way down and nothing happens. I test this wire and when the key is to start it gets twelve volts. but when Connected to the starter it wont turn the starter. If I take a screwdriver and connect the big terminal to the small terminal it turns over but it wont turn over with the key. Is the original wire to small for the chevy starter? I'm lost any help is appreciated.
the starter on my vortec has two wires....one is the main battery cable, the other feeds the solnoid. If you are having to jump the starter to get it to work....is the solnoid bad? Are you connected to the right side of the solnoid? IF you engage the ign and try to start and battery guage goes all the way down.... potentially sounds like a direct short in the starter itself, assuming good connections and battery.
Thanks Elbert what I ended up doing was running a second solenoid from a small car starter with the land cruiser ignition wire and a direct wire to the starter with the second solenoid inbetween. Apparently the ignition in the Land Cruiser isn't enough for the Chevy solenoid. Turned over beautifully after this. Tomorrow is the real test I'll hook up the oil cooler and the ecu I did the wiring for these and I'll see if it will run. for just a few seconds before I put everhything else back together.
think about that for a few.... main battery cable supplies the power...the small wire is just the trigger as I recall. I don't think its anything to do with the 12volt signal from the Yota, because those either work or they don't, it does not have some variable signal.
