Tap and Die (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've been using a 39-piece Craftsman set (9-52383) for decades, on all manner of Japanese, German and Italian vehicles. Haven't found anything on the 40 that it doesn't cover. No idea if they still offer a similar set.
 
you only need 3 or 4 taps.
the head bolt threads in the block are a slightly odd duck, but msc has that covered.

won't mess with dies, just get new hardware.

i picked up a craftman 8 pc set years ago.
 
got a snap on set covers everything metric and american
 
you only need 3 or 4 taps.
True. I have the whole set, and use different taps on different cars. On the Toyota, most of what I'm cleaning up is M6x1.00, M8x1.25 and M10x1.25. Those three taps will take care of 98%.
 
I've been using a 39-piece Craftsman set (9-52383) for decades, on all manner of Japanese, German and Italian vehicles. Haven't found anything on the 40 that it doesn't cover. No idea if they still offer a similar set.

They do still have avail....
Welcome to Sears.com

Looks like a good choice.

Thanks
 
I know that it does not make common sense, but you want 'high speed steel,' not 'high carbon steel.' This was what we only used in the machine shop for even hand tools. But even at that, don't expect them to last long cutting thru rust and welds. Three-fluted types are better than two-fluted for recovery work, and be sure to not cross-thread by being perfectly perpendicular. And, you will also need a tap handle for your tap and EZ Out screw extractor set.

If a captive nut is toast in your body or whatever, you probably are best drilling them out and using a Heli-Coil insert. When we used to do areospace jobs, they actually specified them for every internal thread that was not a pipe fitting.

Replace the fastener, because a die cuts a sharp corner and critical fasteners were very likely rolled because it creates a totally different part in a metallurgical sense. It certainly does not hurt cleaning up a male thread with a stiff wire brush.
 
I know that it does not make common sense, but you want 'high speed steel,' not 'high carbon steel.' This was what we only used in the machine shop for even hand tools. But even at that, don't expect them to last long cutting thru rust and welds. Three-fluted types are better than two-fluted for recovery work, and be sure to not cross-thread by being perfectly perpendicular. And, you will also need a tap handle for your tap and EZ Out screw extractor set.

If a captive nut is toast in your body or whatever, you probably are best drilling them out and using a Heli-Coil insert. When we used to do areospace jobs, they actually specified them for every internal thread that was not a pipe fitting.

Replace the fastener, because a die cuts a sharp corner and critical fasteners were very likely rolled because it creates a totally different part in a metallurgical sense. It certainly does not hurt cleaning up a male thread with a stiff wire brush.

Great info! I will take that into consideration. I do have a captive nut I need to replace. I will give that a shot.
Thanks a bunch
 
I've had good luck with a 2nd hand matco set I purchased on a well known auction web site.
 
I have three main sets, two are Snap-On (metric, imperial) and the other is a Matco master set. Personally, the Matco ones have lasted much longer and withstood abuse far better, a lot less breakage as well. Both are fully warranted and they have replaced quite a few per the warranty. But, for chasing rusty threads out, a good quality set of thread chasers is probably a better idea - even with lifetime warranty they will not replace dull tools - they have to break for replacement. That said, my tool truck guys have dealt with them that way - just snap 'em off in a vise, lol...

One really handy addition - a set of Lisle tap sockets. These will fit most common sizes of square drive taps, lot easier to use them in places where the driving handle won't fit (most times, in reality). I rarely use the handles in my sets, it's usually a socket or wrench to fit the dies, tap sockets for the taps.

Sarge
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom