Tall skinny tires

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I also ordered some Kanati 35x10.5x15 for my 60 yesterday. Simple Tire didn't show this size on their website when I was ready to buy, they ran out quickly with the memorial day sale. I found 4 on eBay at $168 each with free shipping, and it turns out that was Simple Tire's eBay account.
I found a 5th for a spare on Walmart.com for $186, so this coming week I should get to see how they look on a 60 with probably not enough lift haha...
 
I also ordered some Kanati 35x10.5x15 for my 60 yesterday. Simple Tire didn't show this size on their website when I was ready to buy, they ran out quickly with the memorial day sale. I found 4 on eBay at $168 each with free shipping, and it turns out that was Simple Tire's eBay account.
I found a 5th for a spare on Walmart.com for $186, so this coming week I should get to see how they look on a 60 with probably not enough lift haha...
Lookie here, one of them has already arrived 😎
Gonna be a big difference, but I'm confident they will mostly fit, possibly with some massaging of the sheet metal....
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Lookie here, one of them has already arrived 😎
Gonna be a big difference, but I'm confident they will mostly fit, possibly with some massaging of the sheet metal....View attachment 3650081View attachment 3650082View attachment 3650083
So... when you say "some massaging of the sheet metal"... you mean attacking the fenders with a sawzall like a starving rabid beaver in an aspen grove? Maybe opening up the interior to the exterior as you do?

Or do you never leave pavement and KOA campground sites?

Because with the ride height, I don't see anyway you are ever gonna manage any articulation to even get you over speed bumps without some... let's just say "aggressive" sheet metal removal.


Mark...
 
It's not as bad as it looks, and I'm not that dumb. These will work, and any modification I do will be minor. These tires are only a little taller than my current ones. I honestly won't be surprised if I don't have to do much. But I will probably do a 1.5" body lift as well, because I have some other clearance issues under the hood after installing a taller engine.

My 33's are aired down, and squatting. The new tires are only about 1.5" taller than my aired up spare. Attached is a photo with the 33x10.5 aired up.
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There will be no sawzalling of my Land Cruiser, but possibly some percussive clearancing in the front if necessary.
 
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It's not as bad as it looks, and I'm not that dumb. These will work, and any modification I do will be minor. These tires are only a little taller than my current ones. I honestly won't be surprised if I don't have to do much. But I will probably do a 1.5" body lift as well, because I have some other clearance issues under the hood after installing a taller engine.

My 33's are aired down, and squatting. The new tires are only about 1.5" taller than my aired up spare. Attached is a photo with the 33x10.5 aired up. View attachment 3650631
There will be no sawzalling of my Land Cruiser, but possibly some percussive clearancing in the front if necessary.
Yeah, I think you are probably right... not as bad as those other pics make it look. I hope not! I'd hate to see a '60 with decent sheetmetal get all gnawed on. ;)

Mark...
 
It's not as bad as it looks, and I'm not that dumb. These will work, and any modification I do will be minor. These tires are only a little taller than my current ones. I honestly won't be surprised if I don't have to do much. But I will probably do a 1.5" body lift as well, because I have some other clearance issues under the hood after installing a taller engine.

My 33's are aired down, and squatting. The new tires are only about 1.5" taller than my aired up spare. Attached is a photo with the 33x10.5 aired up. View attachment 3650631
There will be no sawzalling of my Land Cruiser, but possibly some percussive clearancing in the front if necessary.

If you make your body lift spacers out of rubber boat trailer rollers like these- https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/Yates-Rubber/YR450BLK.html Then don't bolt them down super tight your truck will be quieter with less road noise/vibration and ride smoother with that cushy rubber between the body and frame. I did this type of lift with a samurai and it was amazing the difference it made. If you crank down the nuts squeezing the rubber tight it gets rougher and loutder. So nylock nuts and just snug. You can cut the rubber rollers to thickness putting the in a vice and cutting with a sawzall. Please don't use a spinning blade(chopsaw,table saw, skilsaw etc..) to cut the rubber.
 
If you make your body lift spacers out of rubber boat trailer rollers like these- https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/Yates-Rubber/YR450BLK.html Then don't bolt them down super tight your truck will be quieter with less road noise/vibration and ride smoother with that cushy rubber between the body and frame. I did this type of lift with a samurai and it was amazing the difference it made. If you crank down the nuts squeezing the rubber tight it gets rougher and loutder. So nylock nuts and just snug. You can cut the rubber rollers to thickness putting the in a vice and cutting with a sawzall. Please don't use a spinning blade(chopsaw,table saw, skilsaw etc..) to cut the rubber.
Neat tip! I used hockey pucks on my old 1980 pickup with decent results. I'm gonna mount the tires and see how things look.
Some more vibration dampening would be appreciated with my 4BT anyway.
 
I like that front bumper you have. it is not *exactly* what I would want for my personal uses, but it is close and a little tweaking would go a long way toward making it so. Did you buy this or make it?

Mark...
It is home built, but I didn't build it. I got it and the winch with a lot of parts acquired from a guy trying to get closer to stock with his rig. It is a tad crude and big, but has saved my cruiser from damage a few times, including a couple encounters with deer. It fits the home built theme of the whole vehicle.
Here's my build thread if you're interested. This truck has come a long way, both figuratively and literally.
 
It is home built, but I didn't build it. I got it and the winch with a lot of parts acquired from a guy trying to get closer to stock with his rig. It is a tad crude and big, but has saved my cruiser from damage a few times, including a couple encounters with deer. It fits the home built theme of the whole vehicle.
Here's my build thread if you're interested. This truck has come a long way, both figuratively and literally.
I don't currently have any of the 6x rigs any more. Don't have any expectations of getting one. But ya never know. Getting ready to build a push bumper/bullbar for the *new* shop truck (1 ton 4x4 chevy crewcab) so I have been paying attention to various larger full coverage front bumpers, regardless of what type rig they are on. After smacking a couple of moose, I demand full coverage bumpers on my rigs. If I was to wind up with another 6x, Something along the lines of what you have might be real intriguing to consider.


Mark...
 
Just so all of you know, the Kanati Mud Hog 35x10.5x15 fit on a 60 with OME Heavy kit just fine with stock wheels. They tuck in the wheel wells when flexed, and don't rub the leaf springs at full lock. I am very happy with my choice of tires, especially at this price. I had extended my front bump stops by 20mm when I swapped the engine to keep the axle from hitting the oil pan, so that plays a part in not rubbing up front.
Last night I had to flex out in the ditch at my buddy's house with a heavy trailer just to put the trailer where it was supposed to be parked, and nothing rubbed even with the back squatting a bit from the weight.
These tires also are smoother and quieter than my General Grabber X3 33x10.5, and don't shake or wobble even with no balancing whatsoever.
We mounted them at a buddy's house with spoons, lube, and muscle, and then hit the road.
It was harder getting the Grabbers off the wheels than mounting the Kanatis.
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I don't currently have any of the 6x rigs any more. Don't have any expectations of getting one. But ya never know. Getting ready to build a push bumper/bullbar for the *new* shop truck (1 ton 4x4 chevy crewcab) so I have been paying attention to various larger full coverage front bumpers, regardless of what type rig they are on. After smacking a couple of moose, I demand full coverage bumpers on my rigs. If I was to wind up with another 6x, Something along the lines of what you have might be real intriguing to consider.


Mark...
One nice aspect of the deep flat Toyota winch bumper is that if you are stuck in a wet hole you can climb out the window across the hood to the bumper and stand on it to access winch, cable, tow hooks, strap etc.. you can toss or catch things to from people on dry land so you don't have to get out in thigh deep water. This is not so easy with a tucked in clearance bumper.....my next bumper will mimic that but higher up and made of AL.
 
One nice aspect of the deep flat Toyota winch bumper is that if you are stuck in a wet hole you can climb out the window across the hood to the bumper and stand on it to access winch, cable, tow hooks, strap etc.. you can toss or catch things to from people on dry land so you don't have to get out in thigh deep water. This is not so easy with a tucked in clearance bumper.....my next bumper will mimic that but higher up and made of AL.
If I am "in a hole" where standing on the bumper will keep me dry... it ain't much of a hole. I have certainly climbed onto hoods to access recovery points... laying flat on the hood of my '40 one time, head underwater off the front end to reach the tow hook on the bumper to attach a winch line comes to mind quickly. Climbing out the sunroof to avoid opening windows another times does too.

I can stand on pretty much any front bumper I have ever seen on a Cruiser. I'll accept wet feet once in a while over one of those JDM front porch bumper monstrosities which have no place off off of the pavement IMHO.

Mark...
 
Klever 35 10.5 on 17x8 Icon Rebound Pro street legal beadlock +25 mm offset.

Rubbing a full compression and I mean full. Full accidental send on a hidden low water crossing. 55+ mph dirt road and bam! Your falling out of the air. Next thing you know you're hitting the incline on the other side of the crossing. No damage.

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Klever 35 10.5 on 17x8 Icon Rebound Pro street legal beadlock +25 mm offset.

Rubbing a full compression and I mean full. Full accidental send on a hidden low water crossing. 55+ mph dirt road and bam! Your falling out of the air. Next thing you know you're hitting the incline on the other side of the crossing. No damage.

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Those Klevers were my second choice if I wasn't able to find the Kanatis in 35x10.5x15, but I was happy to not need to buy new rims. Glad to hear they don't suck, in case I end up with a set in the future.
 
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