Talk to me about the EGR valve (1 Viewer)

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Dec 29, 2016
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Location
Lawrence KS
So I have been hard at work trying to fix my cruiser I was gifted that had been sitting for a few years. Mice have gotten to some wires and vacuum lines. And the PO did not have many lines connected properly or not at all. I have pretty much gotten everything fixed\replaced and I noticed the EGR valve's T fitting is broken. I have no idea if this truck is even gonna run so I am hesitant in dropping a lot of money on a new valve due to this broken fitting.. Can anyone tell me if the truck should run with this t fitting broken? I tried to connect the hose to what is left and it will not stay on. It appears to be rusted quite badly. I also tried to stick a small pick into the end of the t fitting and it would not pass through.. I can't see any light through to the other end.. Should I? Hope this is making some sense.. Here is a pic.. Appreciate any suggestions Thanks!

KVMVJTDlZGQ9RVsz3unZQMg_ikD3yVOjQpDVCtx4tQtIlBBYj9Tt1e5g0pPfOy83_vXIP0MF1a5WuMzE_1422ArQOFv8PyAy6Y1syTuIPw_z2A-RAlvZi85rfpdmcl7cUoi1-SzoLsh4HK-xDjcNM8m8zq6p7fwoBDuge1ysDdz2-VJ8clikzi3UX9Arn9fZbuwrBRmgC2Wb5Mbgwx6TyWp60EQ0Yre7HtUfB1PEWkT_FcH9FYvxPzovByDDuoKBRkHhzQu-79iGB-6PBr6EjPLa7Owpiz52fECa-4Tho32hH-2uhDQpDVD677euiwwAJW3pSNzapYPIc5wkokTGKpRz9XifARjecNtx8YkNWdkBkycrB0yKz3ASzI6sAQ5wpgM3E3d6uCUoWv1En7d-60105aFO5nn98RCtZmUYu_u6d5-5o8RteewEK1qZiicf3An4kkmex4Dqjlv5t5GffUdLmBBFrL-eEbsTmIuVeY_XqKrHi67btFGzkVXc0wv9QfC5DmWEU4bBApxuEpK7ppvzvrLRLNT51HErVhawng8J8JcZ8TSrkaKCR-DcPcaYe30mXLM2yWBd8BmBmsRwzuhvHxigX-TG5w9lRvREnCk0V1ESfiKD=w1543-h871-no
 
EGR won't work without those lines. Toyota only installed the EGR system on North American trucks so its definitely not essential. Deactivating the EGR will turn on the check engine light but you can trick the ECU into thinking the EGR is working by connecting the 2 wires that go to the EGR temp sensor (Toyota actually made a part specifically for this), for 95+ models you also need to wire in a resistor. As Dave mentioned be sure to cap any vacuum lines going to the manifold, in this case there are 2 ports on the manifold and you can simply rout one line from the first port to the second port to make a nice little loop.
 
You need to wrap your wire harness next to the egr
If it's 93 no temp sensor has plug in main harness
94 has temp sensor unplug temp sensor and run jumper in main harness
95 or obd2 and up needs resistor
Loop the vacuum lines or tear the s*** out
 
Thanks for the tips everyone.. This is on a 93 OBD1 truck.. I have been researching how to properly and easily do this and there is a lot of different ways folks are doing it and I am confused on which way would be best.... Can anyone out there give me some more detailed tips on how to bypass the EGR system.. I don't want to get real crazy with block off plates and all that stuff.. I may go that route if\when I get the truck running.. For now I just need to figure out how to easily bypass it.
Thanks!
 
Thanks for the tips everyone.. This is on a 93 OBD1 truck.. I have been researching how to properly and easily do this and there is a lot of different ways folks are doing it and I am confused on which way would be best.... Can anyone out there give me some more detailed tips on how to bypass the EGR system.. I don't want to get real crazy with block off plates and all that stuff.. I may go that route if\when I get the truck running.. For now I just need to figure out how to easily bypass it.
Thanks!
All you need to do is block the vacuum line from the intake plenum to the erg valve on the drivers side and take one of the two side by side vacuum lines that lead from the throttle body to the erg modulator and throw it out. Now take the remaining vacuum line to the modulator and double it back to the the now open vacuum port on top of the throttle body. The erg valve is now inoperative and there should be no resulting vacuum leaks. Since your egr valve is broken anyway, it would be easiest to simply dab some RTV on the broken tee to plug off that vacuum line.
Allow the RTV to cure before starting the engine of course.
 
All you need to do is block the vacuum line from the intake plenum to the erg valve on the drivers side and take one of the two side by side vacuum lines that lead from the throttle body to the erg modulator and throw it out. Now take the remaining vacuum line to the modulator and double it back to the the now open vacuum port on top of the throttle body. The erg valve is now inoperative and there should be no resulting vacuum leaks. Since your egr valve is broken anyway, it would be easiest to simply dab some RTV on the broken tee to plug off that vacuum line.
Allow the RTV to cure before starting the engine of course.


Awesome.. I did exactly this thanks for the nice instructions!
 
By following this method, will I throw a code?
Not on my 93.. There was no electrical connection anywhere for the EGR.. So I don't see how the computer would even know about it. Now that it is running I am not getting any CEL's for EGR.. Just one for a bad O2 sensor.
 
Not on my 93.. There was no electrical connection anywhere for the EGR.. So I don't see how the computer would even know about it. Now that it is running I am not getting any CEL's for EGR.. Just one for a bad O2 sensor.


10-4. Unfortunately, I am OBD2 and this may not work for me. Not to mention, I have a sniff test coming up
 
10-4. Unfortunately, I am OBD2 and this may not work for me. Not to mention, I have a sniff test coming up
Ughh yeah I am afraid it will not fly on your system.. Here in KS we don't have any tests to pass.. One good thing about living here ;>)
 
For 95+ trucks you can wire a resistor (10 kohm I believe) in place of the EGR temp sensor and the computer won't throw an EGR code.
 

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