Tackling the doors (1 Viewer)

[Henry James the 47th]

I never separated out any of my door glass because I was lucky with having no corrosion on the attached metalwork.

With the 1/4 glass I simply tried to paint the metal with the glass in place because separating them looked too difficult.

(But the BJ40 is still left outside in all weather so perhaps I'm paying for my shortcuts now with some hidden corrosion? )

It would be a great addition to this thread if someone could show glass separation and reattachment techniques...

Mine looked fine from the outside as well, really good condition. It was only when I pulled the channel off that I found the corrosion - lining the inside of the track under the rubber seal.

I found this on both window tracks. I would have left off doing this as well, however i had purchased new oem glass.

Here's the way I found to pull the channel off the glass:

-lay the window on the lawn and have a garden hose handy
-with a 1.5" metal spatula, carefully slide the tip of the tool in between the glass and rubber gasket, aiming to get the tool in there 3/8" (1cm) or so.
-gently pry up with the spatula until there is a slight space underneath, and apply the garden hose so as to get some water in the crevice between the glass face and the rubber
-work your way from one end to the other, repeating the pry and water process, then flip the glass over and repeat on the other side

This allowed me to then pull the metal track and rubber seal off the glass.

To reattach the channel and seal is a bit tricky, however I found getting one end of the track and seal on the glass and slid part way down, then working it down along as you go, using the spatula where necessary to keep the rubber seal from getting tucked under, worked well. One could also try, like when replacing the front windshield, to use soapy water. I managed to get mine on without using lubrication however.

 

[lostmarbles]

Mine looked fine from the outside as well, really good condition. It was only when I pulled the channel off that I found the corrosion - lining the inside of the track under the rubber seal.

I found this on both window tracks. I would have left off doing this as well, however i had purchased new oem glass.

Here's the way I found to pull the channel off the glass:

-lay the window on the lawn and have a garden hose handy
-with a 1.5" metal spatula, carefully slide the tip of the tool in between the glass and rubber gasket, aiming to get the tool in there 3/8" (1cm) or so.
-gently pry up with the spatula until there is a slight space underneath, and apply the garden hose so as to get some water in the crevice between the glass face and the rubber
-work your way from one end to the other, repeating the pry and water process, then flip the glass over and repeat on the other side

This allowed me to then pull the metal track and rubber seal off the glass.

To reattach the channel and seal is a bit tricky, however I found getting one end of the track and seal on the glass and slid part way down, then working it down along as you go, using the spatula where necessary to keep the rubber seal from getting tucked under, worked well. One could also try, like when replacing the front windshield, to use soapy water. I managed to get mine on without using lubrication however.

Thanks heaps Chris..

I think I'll try that once I can clear and extend my garage to get my cruiser under cover...

Electroplaters are pretty useless where I live so I'll probably have to resort to paint only. (The last time I got something plated it was an old 1950s/1960 copper soap dispenser that I had meticulously taken apart, panelbeated out the dents, and reassembled. Despite pleading with them to be careful not to drop it when polishing up the new chrome ... that's exactly what they did. )

 

[Hoz FJ40 CO]

Awesome thread! Subscribed. This thread has already helped me. Many thanks.

 

[jdewbfj40]

Awesome! This was/is very helpful as I am have just started this process on my '70 fj40.

 

[76technician]

I don't often feel like necro-bumping, but I'd just like to say how much this thread helped me. The trick for getting the window crank handles off alone made my life much better (if only I'd read it before I did my first door).

Best to you, Lostmarbles!

 

[AYM707]

@lostmarbles - this thread is great I need to change my weather stripes & window channels. I changed it earlier; but now the window gets stuck. and screwed the window regulator.

I'm going to have to take down the door and open it up. Going to follow your instructions step-by-step

 

[David Teesdale]

Awesome thread Tom, I have to do my doors and your thread will be my reference
Well done

 

[diogenese]

Thanks Tom, I've just put my door tops back together and I forgot to take photos when I took them apart. your info has made it easy

 

[tstepp920]

Thanks for this thread. On my to do list

 

[Dagha Boy]

Thanks for this thread. I took mine apart more than two years ago and have been dreading the reassembly. Now I'm looking forward to it.

 

[PiratelooksatFJ40]

Amazing thread, thanks so much. I started on the driver's door and got frustrated very quickly - this will be immensely helpful.

 

[amazon196969]

You also need to remove two tiny screws (M4 as I recall) that secure the top of the "vent window assy" into the door.

Then comes the tricky bit.

Best to remove the "washers, spring and nuts" off the vent window pivot otherwise they'll get in the way when you attempt to extract the assembly from the door:

View attachment 411429

Edit. It's also best to OPEN THE VENT WINDOW FULLY (open and turn it to its limit) before extracting this assembly. This is because there is a "cam-like tab" on the pivot shaft that will interfere-with/scratch your sill-paint in all other positions. (See "red arrow" above.)

The small arrows in this next pic show where those top M4 screws were.

View attachment 405146

To remove the "vent window assy" you need to first tilt it backwards as shown above.


Then I found the assembly could only be lifted out from the OUTSIDE as shown next.

View attachment 405147

And to remove the base of the "stalk" ... you have to move it over to the "wider opening" (arrowed) and turn the assembly as required so the bracket on the base of the stalk can pass through.
View attachment 405146View attachment 405147View attachment 411429

 

[amazon196969]

You also need to remove two tiny screws (M4 as I recall) that secure the top of the "vent window assy" into the door.

Then comes the tricky bit.

Best to remove the "washers, spring and nuts" off the vent window pivot otherwise they'll get in the way when you attempt to extract the assembly from the door:

View attachment 411429

Edit. It's also best to OPEN THE VENT WINDOW FULLY (open and turn it to its limit) before extracting this assembly. This is because there is a "cam-like tab" on the pivot shaft that will interfere-with/scratch your sill-paint in all other positions. (See "red arrow" above.)

The small arrows in this next pic show where those top M4 screws were.

View attachment 405146

To remove the "vent window assy" you need to first tilt it backwards as shown above.


Then I found the assembly could only be lifted out from the OUTSIDE as shown next.

View attachment 405147

And to remove the base of the "stalk" ... you have to move it over to the "wider opening" (arrowed) and turn the assembly as required so the bracket on the base of the stalk can pass through.
View attachment 405146View attachment 405147View attachment 411429

Is it possible to remove quarter window without removing the main window?

 

[Living in the Past]

lostmarbles was in an accident with his 40 series years and it was totaled. While he was okay pretty much left the site. He hasn't logged on mud in years I would expect an answer.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

lostmarbles was in an accident with his 40 series years and it was totaled. While he was okay pretty much left the site. He hasn't logged on mud in years I would expect an answer.

I hope he is doing well.