Tackling the doors

[herbs]

Time to resurrect this thread. I have to replace the vent window rubber on my '84 HJ 47, does the whole vent window assembly have to be removed from the window to get the vent window out? currently it has a bloody annoying wind whistle at 85 km/h plus. I've taped up the gap but it looks soooooo crap.

 

[lostmarbles]

Time to resurrect this thread. I have to replace the vent window rubber on my '84 HJ 47, does the whole vent window assembly have to be removed from the window to get the vent window out? currently it has a bloody annoying wind whistle at 85 km/h plus. I've taped up the gap but it looks soooooo crap.

Definitely "Yes"

You can't replace the vent window rubber without removing the whole vent-window-assembly from the door.

 

[herbs]

Yeah I thought so, oh well, might as well replace all the other rubber bits while I'm at it.

 

[stuckinnz]

Would you belive it I just checked out rare spares in New Zealand and I could walk there!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh well I feel a door restaration coming on

 

[lostmarbles]

Just an important piece of additional information here.

After regluing various sections of my door seals that "pulled-away" .......I've come to the conclusion that I left out an important step in this work.

I now believe it is VERY important to scuff the door seals (with a piece of coarse-grit emery tape) where-ever contact adhesive (glue) is to be applied to them. (Washing the seals like I did was probably unecessary - because the problem appears to more than just the presence of surface coatings.)

I've found the adhesive has no trouble sticking to fresh paint but it doesn't want to adhere to the rubber unless it is scuffed first.

So omitting this scuffing step is yet another error I made that others can easily avoid.

 

[herbs]

OEM vent windows rubbers are good, but for the cost of $146 AU each, they'd want to be.......

 

[UltraFJ40]

Just an important piece of additional information here.

After regluing various sections of my door seals that "pulled-away" .......I've come to the conclusion that I left out an important step in this work.

I now believe it is VERY important to scuff the door seals (with a piece of coarse-grit emery tape) where-ever contact adhesive (glue) is to be applied to them. (Washing the seals like I did was probably unecessary - because the problem appears to more than just the presence of surface coatings.)

I've found the adhesive has no trouble sticking to fresh paint but it doesn't want to adhere to the rubber unless it is scuffed first.

So omitting this scuffing step is yet another error I made that others can easily avoid.

Now that you have it down, I'll be sending mine to you.

Thanks mate, great write up!

 

[DrSlug]

Here is the adhesive being applied:

View attachment 405818

Now the seal being pressed into place:

View attachment 405819

And this shows a bit of the "detail" that the manufacturer has put into the seal. (I didn't have to cut that notch!)

View attachment 405820

How far from the edge of the door is the trim? Is it the same distance all the way around. Im asking cause I fitted a new rubber to my drivers side door last year, it looked the goods but when I put it on the car it didnt look like it was sitting right and I had to adjust the lock and hinge plates to fit properly.

Any pics of this would be good

 

[lostmarbles]

How far from the edge of the door is the trim? Is it the same distance all the way around. Im asking cause I fitted a new rubber to my drivers side door last year, it looked the goods but when I put it on the car it didnt look like it was sitting right and I had to adjust the lock and hinge plates to fit properly.

Any pics of this would be good

The distance between the rubber seal and the edge of the door varies as I recall.

I did one door at a time so that I could use the other door to help mark out the "adhesive application area" (and hence to mark out exactly where the seal should sit).

And having the seal laid out close to its final resting place before sticking the mating adhesive-coated surfaces together enabled me to see problems starting to occur (and take remedial action) before they became serious. In other words, I could see early-on when I needed to start stretching or compressing the rubber to get the "matching features" (coming up ahead) to line up.

If the rubber seal ends up being wrongly positioned relative to the door edge (and particularly if it is too far away from the edge in proximity of the hinges) or if the features of the rubber don't lie correctly on top of their matching door features then that can certainly aggravate the problem of your doors not want to close properly.

If you think more photos will be helpful, which specific areas do you want me to photograph? The hinge area?

 

[berntd]

Hello
Excellent useful thread - Great work too!
Thank you veyr much!

May I ask what sort of paint that Dulon is? Two pack or acryllic?

Seems to come out in a great shine which I have not managed to achieve with locak acryliic automotive paint.

Also, how on earth did you order / get hold of all those parts?
Did you get advise on what you will need to order or did you have to specify each little part and hope for the best?


Regards
Bernt

 

[lostmarbles]

Hello
Excellent useful thread - Great work too!
Thank you veyr much!

May I ask what sort of paint that Dulon is? Two pack or acryllic?

Seems to come out in a great shine which I have not managed to achieve with locak acryliic automotive paint.

Also, how on earth did you order / get hold of all those parts?
Did you get advise on what you will need to order or did you have to specify each little part and hope for the best?


Regards
Bernt

Thanks Bernt

Dulon is an acrylic laquer.

Maybe your paint is more "environmentally-friendly" than mine at the expense of the finish? (Mine still has horrible stuff like toluene and xylene in it.)

And when getting parts for my cruiser I usually research the correct Toyota part numbers for my "model and year/month of manufacture" first and never trust the supplier to get it right on their own. (So I usually bombard them with lots of information.)

Good suppliers (like CruiserCorps whom I used to get the difficult stuff for this work) will even email me photos of what they are thinking of sending (when they have some doubts about the suitability) so we sort it out prior to shipment. (Actually, now that I think about it, they were more on top of things than I was because on one occasion they still sent me what I wanted even when I gave them the wrong part number initially.)



PS. For the door-seal adhesive I doubt I'd use "Ados F2" again. (Or if I was to do so, I'd certainly scuff the rubber heavily with sandpaper first ... because I've experienced too much subsequent "separation".)

I'd actually like to try out the "2-pot IC2000 cyanoacrlate 20-45 second glue" that CruiserCorps sell. (In fact I've already got some to try on the half-doors I'll be making whenever I get around to it.)

 

[berntd]

Thanks Bernt


PS. For the door-seal adhesive I doubt I'd use "Ados F2" again. (Or if I was to do so, I'd certainly scuff the rubber heavily with sandpaper first ... because I've experienced too much subsequent "separation".)

I'd actually like to try out the "2-pot IC2000 cyanoacrlate 20-45 second glue" that CruiserCorps sell. (In fact I've already got some to try on the half-doors I'll be making whenever I get around to it.)

Hello name?

I did restore a few Mercedes Benz before and they wrote in a manual that all door rubbers not fitted at the factory, need to be thoroughly cleaned with laquer thinners (the general purpose strong stuff) to remove all traces of mould lubricant (silicon?) and powder.

Your scuffing idea will help too but I think it is the the silicon / lube traces that are killing the adhesion.

As for the laqour, mine always dries too quickly to get much shine on it. Maybe it is just my technique. I have no training on painting except for a few books and articles.

Best regards
Bernt

 

[lostmarbles]

Hello name?

I did restored a few Mercedes Banz before and they wrote in a manual that all door rubbers not fitted at the factory, need to be thoroughly cleaned with laquer thinners (the general purpose strong stuff) to remove all traced of mould lubricant (silicon?) and powder.

Your scuffing idea will help too but I think it is the the silicn traces that are killing the adhesion.

As for the laqour, mine always seems dries too quickly to get much shine on it. Maybe it is just my technique. I have no training on painting except for a few books and articles.

Best regards
Bernt

Good tip about the mould lubricant and powder Bernt. .... Thanks

I'm self-taught as far as spraypainting too. I could take pics to highlight some of my paint-runs and entombed-sandfly-carcasses ... but I prefer to make it look like I'm more of an expert than I really am



And my real name's Tom .... which I usually have in my signature-line ... Trouble is, I get sick of seeing that signature-line so I often choose not to show it..

 

[bj40green]

Qustion

Hi Tom,
Great thread! Just what I was looking for. Next week I'm going to help a buddy to replace the vent window seals like you did and here is my question: do we have to take out the main window (and regulator) to get the vent window out, or can we take the vent window out while the main window is in it's lowest position?

Thanks in advance,

Rudi

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi Tom,
Great thread! Just what I was looking for. Next week I'm going to help a buddy to replace the vent window seals like you did and here is my question: do we have to take out the main window (and regulator) to get the vent window out, or can we take the vent window out while the main window is in it's lowest position?

Thanks in advance,

Rudi

Thanks Rudi

I think I suffer from Alzheimer's so I had to look back in this thread myself to try and find the answer.

Post # 3, 4 and 5 (and better ...49, 50, 51) show that you can leave the main glass and regulator in place on late-model-doors while removing the "vent window assembly" (with the main glass in the lowest position).

But it looks like you may have to remove the L-shaped bailey channel and inner/outer window belts in order to more-readily tilt the "vent-window assembly" rearwards at the top. (So that's probably worse than just having to remove the main glass and regulator. )

In other words, I suspect it may be hard to remove the ventwindows without a fairly major stripdown.

The chrome-beaded bailey channel is likely to "crumble to bits" on removal if it is badly rusted too!

So my advice is .... See if the you can tilt the window without removing the channel and belts first .... but be prepared to have to remove them (and then be prepared for possible damage.)



Edit: Be prepared to "graunch" the heads on those little screws that hold the vent-window in place too. I found "vice-grips on the heads" probably worked better than an impact-driver (although I used both) ... because anything but a light-hit on the impact driver is likely to cause denting damage to the sheetmetal. (Might be a good idea to have replacement screws on hand.)

 

[bj40green]

Thanks Tom

You have alzheimer.... well I need new glasses! It's clearly in the pics that the window and regulator are still in. Let's keep our fingers crossed because this will not be an easy job.
The PO used tons of silicone kit, outside AND inside, to make it waterproof. It will be a real challenge to remove the old (?? years) kit without doing too much damage to the paint.
I'll keep you posted with pics of course.

Rudi

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Tom,

excellent detailed write up as per usual.

One minor detail you omitted, which I discovered during the process of fitting new door glass is that the door support channel, no longer available from Toyota, tends to be corroded internally. You would not find this unless you pulled the glass from the channel and its associated weatherstrip. So, for an even more through rebuild of a door, trying to nip the rust worm in the bud as much as possible, I would suggest people may want pull the glass from the channel, clean the channel inside and apply a coat of rust encapsulator- or go even further and have it bead-blasted and either powder coated or cadmium plated.

I also learned that Toyota has two different window glass thicknesses on 40 series doors, but that's another matter...

 

[UltraFJ40]

Odd resurrection of a thread that's been dead a year and a half, however you do make a good point and it contributes to the thread nicely.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Yeah, for sure, like a zombie that wasn't put down right, coming back for more...

I came across it while searching for info on how to separate the door glass from the channel, and like everywhere else I looked, couldn't actually find good info on that. Figured it out myself in the end.

 

[lostmarbles]

....I came across it while searching for info on how to separate the door glass from the channel, and like everywhere else I looked, couldn't actually find good info on that. Figured it out myself in the end.

I never separated out any of my door glass because I was lucky with having no corrosion on the attached metalwork.

With the 1/4 glass I simply tried to paint the metal with the glass in place because separating them looked too difficult.

(But the BJ40 is still left outside in all weather so perhaps I'm paying for my shortcuts now with some hidden corrosion? )

It would be a great addition to this thread if someone could show glass separation and reattachment techniques...