Tach Hookup - FJ60 12H-T install

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Circuit Summary

I've been watching this for a while, and I've (hopefully) sorted the speculation from the facts –

1] The bell housing sensor is a Variable Reluctance (changing magnetism) pick up. It generates a small amount of electricity whenever a piece of steel moves past. The electricity is alternating current, flowing in one direction as the metal approaches and the opposite direction as the piece moves away. Either end of the generating coil wires may be connected to ground and the other end will provide an oscillating voltage.

2] Toyota diesel flywheels have 108 teeth. So they produce 54 times as many pulses as a four cylinder petrol engine or 36 times as many as a 6 cylinder.

3] Petrol and Diesel tachometers have the same drive circuitry - an NEC C1006C motor driver chip supplies the power to swing the needle.

4] Petrol tachometers have some simple protection in front of this chip, and that's all.

5] Diesel tachometers have 2 additions –
A] an M51204 voltage comparitor is used to read the alternating current output of the flywheel sensor to produce Direct Current pulses and
B] a cmos 4024 ripple counter performs multiple divisions of the pulse rate.

6] For a 2H (6 cylinder) the division selected is /32. This is not quite /36, so I’m assuming the gain of the C1006C meter driver is adjusted down a little. I haven’t seen the circuit of a 2B tacho but I expect it to use /64 with the gain adjusted a little bit up.

So, to run a Toyota diesel tach from a petrol engine you need to condition the input and feed it directly to the big green capacitor (marked 223) that operates the meter driver. The resistor values around the driver may also need adjusting.

To run a Toyota petrol tach from a Toyota diesel pickup you need to reproduce the comparator and frequency divider stages. The resistor values around the driver may also need adjusting.

To run a generic petrol tach from a Toyota diesel pickup you need to reproduce the comparator and frequency divider stages. The divider can be made exact by using AND gates to make the count 32+4=36 or 32+16+4+2=54.

Is there an electronics whiz out there who can provide the circuit schematics for this?
I’m thinking bell housing pickup|comparator|counter/36|and_gates-->petrol tach.

Anyway I’ve got what I need to build a simple shift indicator for a diesel; I can take a clean cmos level signal from the ripple counter; either the clock input or the /32 output will do nicely.

bye
 
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I've done some further research. Maybe I don't need some (better) electronic whiz to design this after all.

the LM1815 chip is a comparitor designed SPECIFICALLY for interfacing to a variable reluctance sensor WITHOUT the need for any further conditioning circuitry. Its output is suitable for direct connection to a 4024 frequency divider.

For a 2H (6 cyclinder) this means a VERY simple and cheap 3 chip solution for connection to a generic petrol tach (or micro computer) -
LM1815 to 4024 to 4011 Nand to any petrol tach set to 6 cylinders.

The 4011 contains 4 nand gates. It is a better choice than directly using and gates. Why?
The /32 and /4 outputs from the 4024 got to 1 nand gate and the output of that gate goes to both inputs of another (this creates a not gate). The not gate setup provides strong buffering.
One pair of gates goes direct to the petrol tach, the other pair (fed in parallel from the LM1815 to the first pair) have a resistor and then a capacitor (to ground) between the nand and the not gate and the not output goes to the 4024 reset.
Charging and discharging the capacitor provide 2 delays, firstly it leaves the /36 output ON for a while before the reset is triggered, then it holds the reset condition long enough to ensure resetting the 2024.
Using a 47K resistor and a 47pF capacitor should give charge and dischage delays of around 7us - perfect.

4 cyclinder engines will require more gates for the /54=32+16+4+2.

Circuit diagram soon.

bye
 
First go at circuit for /36 divider for Diesel tach signal.

I haven't tried this yet (waiting for an LM1815), so it's just for discusion.

[just looked at image again, there is an error in the brown text, it should say C2, not C1]

bye
tachdivider.webp
 
Hey Stone, Im guessing you figured this out by now, but the signal wire is the one nearest the clip on the round connector from the sensor. The other is ground.

Would you believe I haven't even gone back to Sheldon's to pick up the connector to mate with the bell housing sensor yet? LOL...I've been so busy.

Thanks, Lynchmob...I appreciate it. :beer:
 
If you guys want a few hj60 standard tachs let me know,i'll check the price,i know my local wrecker has maybe 3 sitting in cars.
 
so if I have converted a fj62 to a 3b can I hook up the flywheel sensor to the tach out of the donor bj60 or will that not work and I have to do something fancy
 
Should be fine (so long as the flywheel has the same number of teeth).

See my next post for more info.
 
Should be fine (so long as the flywheel has the same number of teeth).

See my next post for more info.

<EDIT> Your explanation goes waaay above my head, Bgennette...lol. The Dakota Digital adaptor was an easy $100 solution.

Thanks for the help again, Lynchmob. :beer:
 
Wow!, Mot is online so I got a response within 20 seconds. He is great.

The embossed Kanji symbols on the back of my tachs are silly.
They only say :from the left(red) wire, it reads "RED", "BLACK/YELLOW" and "BLACK".
That wasn't very helpful...


I havent seen an answer to the question of what are the wires to the tach mechanism so here you go.


The left wire (red) is the sensor wire to the bellhousing, The middle (black/yellow) is keyed power, the right(black) is ground.
 
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Hey guys. Im part way through my diesel swap with a 12HT.
The guy I bought it from failed to give me the tach sensor, luckily, I called him up and he is going to send me TWO!!!!! I dont need the second one...... and I might be interested in selling it. Whats a fair price? It screws right into a 12HT or tapped 2H bellhousing.
 
Was there any progress on the plug and play? I'm in the situation 12V 2H/H55 needed to get FJ60 tach working. Can anyone explain how in simple terms preferably those that don't involve an oscilloscope or having to solder
 
Was there any progress on the plug and play? I'm in the situation 12V 2H/H55 needed to get FJ60 tach working. Can anyone explain how in simple terms preferably those that don't involve an oscilloscope or having to solder
I can tell you how mine went.
I got the tach sensor, which comes with just a copper end that goes into the bell housing (looks like a copper/brass cork with a threaded bolt atatched to the end) and a inch or two of wire with a plastic connector fitting. The tach sensor is very simple, and just screws straight into the bell housing. No need for real adjustment or calibration as it just goes in until tight. I then isolated the wires from my 24v harness with the right connection on the end. Once I hooked those wires up to the tach sensor, then routed them to a power source, then back to the tach gauge, it worked like a charm. Nothing especially complex about it. Very straight forward.

I would be happy to take some detailed pictures if your interested.
 
I can tell you how mine went.
I got the tach sensor, which comes with just a copper end that goes into the bell housing (looks like a copper/brass cork with a threaded bolt atatched to the end) and a inch or two of wire with a plastic connector fitting. The tach sensor is very simple, and just screws straight into the bell housing. No need for real adjustment or calibration as it just goes in until tight. I then isolated the wires from my 24v harness with the right connection on the end. Once I hooked those wires up to the tach sensor, then routed them to a power source, then back to the tach gauge, it worked like a charm. Nothing especially complex about it. Very straight forward.

I would be happy to take some detailed pictures if your interested.

Yes, pics please.
 
I just did something similar . I converted a 24v 2h to 12v with the correct starter and alternator . The Tach is rather simple . If your truck has the magnetic pickup in the bell all you need is the tach gauge that would have come with the original vehicle . 24 or 12v doesn't matter . The three pins on the back of the gauge itself are red - tach signal , black yellow - pwr , black - gnd . I used the 24v gauge in the 12v cluster . I re-used the original lighting circuit from the 12v truck so the bulbs were correct . I checked to make sure the original wiring had 12v to the Blk/yellow wire with the key on then I wired one side of the magnetic pickup to the ground on the gauge and the other side to the red or tach signal . I'm not sure the polarity matters ? The first way I hooked it up worked so I went with that. Seems to be accurate . I read a lot about converting the gasser tach to work with the diesel but found this was an easier route for me .
 
I was just at ATEB today, and this discussion came up with the same answer as too tall. So I had thought this might work but hadn't tried it. I will give it a try. I've got a 12H-T with a 12V complete system and haven't had the tach figured out. I just installed a new gauge cluster from a BJ60, so I know it's a diesel tach.
 
Could someone show me a photo of what type of light bulb fits in the back of the above tacho for the diesel 40 series, as I would light to buy a led replacement bulb?

Would someone have a spare tacho that they could check the bulb type?

Thanks
 
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