t-case/Transmission oil seal

[Mildot]

After reading several threads and finding out about the possibility of having a seal blown between the t-case and transmission I am not sure what to do. I have my Transmission and t-case out as I am replacing the oil pan gasket, Rear main seal and clutch.

I was not able to find a short and sweet how to on what needs to be done to replace the seal between the t-case and trans. So I guess my questions is should I replace the seal or install a hose between the t-case and trans?

 

[hank14]

If I was you, I'd buy a transfer case rebuild kit from cruiseroutfitters anddo the rebuild while it's out (if your T-case hasn't been rebuilt recently). That way, you get all new seals and will be good to go for a long time.

I pulled my tranny and t-case 2 1/2 years ago to replace the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, throwout and pilot bearings, and clutch, and ended up pulling it all again this year to rebuild the t-case. I should have done it all at once and called it good.

 

[Mildot]

I was hoping for an easy fix. This is my first clutch swap and I spent! Is there a good guide as to how to rebuild the tcase and trans? I could not find a price on Cruiser outfitters so I put a call in to Kurt can anyone give me a guess on how much it will cost?

 

[lehiguy]

I am of the opinion that if it isn't broken, you shouldn't fix it and tearing down that T-case for a failed seal doesn't seem broken enough to warrant the effort. That seal failure is common, but the fix is easy. Just drill and tap the fill plugs, run a hose between the two and the oil will get back where it belongs. When you have a more compelling reason to rebuild the T-case, then you can fix the seal.

 

[Mildot]

Easy sounds so good at the moment. BTW Lehi I got a good wiki read about Rockwell. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Mildot]

I think I will have to go with he hose as I can not afford the $400+ for the two rebuild kits.

 

[Tapage]

I already did that years ago .. but for some reason it didn't work for me .. I knew other that have different experience ..

In my case it fill the t-case but for some reason the tranny was always low in oil .. ( returning less than necesary .? )

 

[lehiguy]

Easy sounds so good at the moment. BTW Lehi I got a good wiki read about Rockwell. Thanks for the advice.

You mean Orrin Porter Rockwell? An interesting character to be sure. A distant relative too. I think we need a few hundred guys like him in DC.

 

[hank14]

The T-case rebuild kit is the only one you need.
It's about 2/3 the way down the page.

Cruiser Outfitters

I agree w/ if it ain't broke, but in my case, I thought the clutch or throwout bearing was causing some squeaking and chatter when I let the clutch pedal out. Turns out it was some worn t-case parts which I should have replaced when I had the whole thing pulled. Everything in there is 25+ years old and these are service items when worn, you know.

 

[hank14]

Also, you need the Toyota Factory Service Manual if you want to attempt the rebuild yourself, but here's a great forum reference w/ pics:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/188968-split-case-rebuild.html

 

[2mbb]

The bypass hose only works if your leak is from the transfer case into the transmission (you find the the transfer case has low oil level and the transmission if overfilled. Because the transmission fill port is higher than that of the transfer case, when the transmission overfills, the fluid can flow down hill into the transfer case. If your leak is the other direction, you would have to extremely overfill the transfer case to get it to push oil back up into the transmission.

You do not have to "rebuild" the transmission to fix this problem. You do have to replace the seal on the front of the transfer case, which means taking the transfer case apart. If your transfer case is otherwise OK, all you need to do is reseal it, not necessarily rebuild it (eg. you would replace gaskets and seals but reuse the bearings, etc.).

The procedure for taking apart the transfer case is detailed in the body and chassis manual.

 

[Mildot]

As I am sure all of us had done I was thinking worst case while sitting at work but after getting home and looking at things as well as checking the oil levels in the t-case and trans I found that they were both perfect. I started cleaning up the pair and noticed that there was red RTV on most of the cover plates as well as the connection between the t-case and trans. Most appear to be keeping it sealed. It does appear that someone rebuilt the two but wanted to see if anyone knew what the stock bearing markings looked like and could confirm if the bearings in picture one are aftermarket.

I am most concerned about the attached pictures. I pulled the cover off to check the seal on the input shaft as this cover was covered with a thin coat of oil. I am going to order a new input shaft seal but wondering if using RTV again would work ok?

 

[lehiguy]

As I am sure all of us had done I was thinking worst case while sitting at work but after getting home and looking at things as well as checking the oil levels in the t-case and trans I found that they were both perfect. I started cleaning up the pair and noticed that there was red RTV on most of the cover plates as well as the connection between the t-case and trans. Most appear to be keeping it sealed. It does appear that someone rebuilt the two but wanted to see if anyone knew what the stock bearing markings looked like and could confirm if the bearings in picture one are aftermarket.

I am most concerned about the attached pictures. I pulled the cover off to check the seal on the input shaft as this cover was covered with a thin coat of oil. I am going to order a new input shaft seal but wondering if using RTV again would work ok?

Vitually all tranmission rebuilders use nothing but RTV on surfaces like that. The grey stuff is my favorite. It dries fairly firm and has the highest oil resistance. It is specified by Chrysler for diff covers. I have used it for years on T-cases and I have never had it leak.

 

[Mildot]

I have some of the blue version already whats the difference between that and the grey?

 

[lehiguy]

I have some of the blue version already whats the difference between that and the grey?

I think the grey dries more firmly and it is more resistant to oil. EIther may do the job.

 

[Mildot]

I got some Ultra Black. I cleaned it and sealed it then it sat for a few days while I was doing other things but not a drop of gear oil leaked out!

 

[scott johnson]

I was not able to find a short and sweet how to on what needs to be done to replace the seal between the t-case and trans. So I guess my questions is should I replace the seal or install a hose between the t-case and trans?

both, cheap insurance.

 

[deltapine1]

The Right Stuff

"The Right Stuff" is the best out there. NAPA and most other auto parts stores have it. I just wish the stuff didn't go bad so fast sitting around on the shelf after it's opened.

 

[Kynot62]

both, cheap insurance.

If you fix the seal, which you should, the hose may be a bad idea. It is possible that you could put your rig in a position that allows oil to flow down the hose into the tcase, and if your seal is good there is virtually no way for the oil to return possibly leaving your tranny low on oil.

I ran the bypass hose for a time and it worked great with my bad seal but once I fixed the seal I put the hose in my spare parts.

I have never found a reason not to use the paper gasket that came on our tranny's either, anybody have a good reason to not use it?

And about the original or aftermarket bearing question, on all the Toyota cruiser tranny's I have taken apart they all have used NGK bearings on the input shaft which even the one in your pic has.

Tony

 

[orangefj45]

1) the hose is a band aid. if the seal is bad, then fix it if the trans and t-case are already out.
2) most of the RTVs mentioned above will work great, the right stuff, ultra black, the oem toyota grey or balc silicone as well as the chrysler factory stuff. they're all oil resistant and will do the job. let the sealant set up for at least 24 hours for max strength.
i use an anerobic sealer on my transmission and t-case rebuilds along with the factory gaskets. it's also known as formula 518 and works very well but it's not cheap.
3) i have all the seals and gaskets in stock, both in kit form and seperatley. for the transmission and the t-case. i also stock the complete rebuild kits.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids