t-case coming out of L4 under load (1 Viewer)

[super40]

disel swap
1HZ/H55/split T-case (fj60?) slipping out of 4 LOw while doing steep climbs. the more load the more it comes out of 4 low. i put a bungie cord on it pritty tight and it still came out! had a LC buddy check it out and he says its ususally a prob with the spring loaded bearing not working, but when he looked at the t-case he said it looks like a 60 series t-case with out the threaded bolt that has the spring loaded bearing..?? some one knows what vehicle this tcase came from and what my prob/ solution is? help!!

 

[norsk]

several pictures would help

dougbert

 

[dbleon]

May be a 62 case...? I think the part your friend is talking about is the detent?

just spitballing.

 

[lcwizard]

This is what he's referring to.

https://www.sor.com/CAT070.sor?TABPAGE=TAB2#

It's on the top of the case, close to the rear. The bolt is very low profile. If it backs out or the spring breaks you'll have the symptoms you describe

part#'s 5,45,85

 

[super40]

so if there is no detent on this t-case what and where do i look for to find/fix my prob? thanks

 

[rcmccars]

when this was happening on my truck I needed new motor and trans mounts to fix it. The shift lever was hitting the body when the motor torqued over and the body would force it in to neutral

 

[KLF]

That's a 60 case. The 62 case has a big vacuum dashpot on it where that linkage is.

The detent they are talking about is a groove milled into the shaft for the shift fork. There's a ball bearing and spring under a hex cap that goes into this groove, it holds the shaft in the selected position. It could be that either the ball is missing, or the spring has broken. Like the posted photo shows, it's on top of the case, kinds hard to reach, and even harder to get the spring and ball out, you need a skinny magnet.

I'm more curious where you got that t-case disc parking brake.

 

[Heartworm]

My comment may have ABSOLUTELY no application to your situation. The stock FJ60 transfer case shifter has 2 rubber boots. The inner boot can get very stiff with time and will actually resist the shifter from being placed in 4WD Low Range. It will push the shifter back to neutral. A pocket knife will solve that. At least is did for mine. Now my problem is that 1st gear on my H55 is jumping out! If it ain't one thing it's another.

 

[crushers]

check for slop in the front output bearing, is there ANY movement up and down, side to side, in or out of the companion flange.
the indent is important to HELP keep it in 4wd but if it was the indent then try in 4wd High and see if the same occurs.
the engagement collar only engages by roughly 1/4" so any movement in the front section can cause enough vibration to have the collar disengage without any input from the shifter.
report back after further testing.

 

[Bret]

You cannot feel any detents when moving the shifter from 2wd to 4wd at all. You feel the shift collar sliding but no detent in any position. The detent spring is on top? The document I had it looked like it was on the side with the switch. tried to compare to mine but was lazy and didn't want to drop the full length skid plate to get to it...

Super40- when you pull the front driveshaft it will be a snap to check for play on that flange. You may be able to see the top where they are referring to with the shift boot removed.

to Heart- there is only one boot, no inner rubber boot. There is almost 3/4" clearance on the back of the shifter to the cover and tranny/motor mounts seem OK, didn't push it against a tree to check though, be worth a shot if the detent doesn't pan out.

 

[super40]

Thanks everyone.. Mounts are all new as of last yrs refurb. Will check front shaft movement and get back. Will find a tree I dont like and give it a push and see what happens.

 

[brett76]

its on the side of the top of the transfer case. there are two. they are the seventeen mm bolts the are hollowed and house the spring and bearing. a cheap fix if the spring is worn is to just throw a washer or two in behind the spring till you get a new one. or you t case could be worn and need rebuilding. (which was my case)

 

[super40]

No slop in any of the shafts, in/out or side to side up/down. I'll check the 17mm bolt on top of the t-case that contains the spring on tues morn and report back. And hope that's the prob. Ill also find a tree i dont like and see if it comes out of 4high just as it does in 4 low. Thanks all.

 

[super40]

Oh yeh to KLF I had profitts do the parking brake not sure where they sourced it.

 

[Flight2k5]

its on the side of the top of the transfer case. there are two. they are the seventeen mm bolts the are hollowed and house the spring and bearing. a cheap fix if the spring is worn is to just throw a washer or two in behind the spring till you get a new one. or you t case could be worn and need rebuilding. (which was my case)

Are they the same spring and bearing? I ordered the two of them and they are different part numbers but loo and feel exactly alike. The spring and bearing won't fall into the transfer case when the bolts are taken off will they?

 

[lcwizard]

Are they the same spring and bearing? I ordered the two of them and they are different part numbers but loo and feel exactly alike. The spring and bearing won't fall into the transfer case when the bolts are taken off will they?

no. the ball rests on the shift selector shaft. No where for it to go. In the first set of pics you can see the 4 wheel drive indicator switch. That replaces the ball and spring. The spring loaded ball is built into the switch. That switch only affects the detent between 2wd and 4wd. On top of the case, over the rear output shaft is the other plug assembly. It affects, hi/neutral/lo. This is where you should focus if it's popping out of lo and into neutral

 

[lehiguy]

I had the same problem. It was the drivetrain shifting under torque (and gravity) when climbing something. The body was hitting the shifter. The bracket that is often removed to make a "2-low" mod serves to keep that from happening.

 

[lcwizard]

just for grins, get a jack or prybar and check you drivers side motor mount.
Also you should look into another crossmember. Whoever did the conversion removed the mid torque tube and didn't replace it

 

[lcwizard]

consider having the crossmember put back in. You can move it back to the end of the boxed section such as in these photos. Without it you may be getting way too much frame flex. That will also tear up the body prematurely

 

[Bret]

So we need to pull the 4wd switch and check spring/ball under it since it acts as the detent spring too?