System Refresh (1 Viewer)

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So for the last 10 years or so, my 1985 FJ60 has been in a sort of hibernation, mostly staying in the garage and only making it out for runs to the transfer station (aka garbage dump) and an occasional trip around town to recharge the battery. In the near future, I'm looking at taking some road trips, camping, exploring and the like. So I'm going through and doing a "refresh" to make sure everything is in tip top shape. I'll use this tread to record what how it goes.

As of today, my 5/1985 FJ60 has 232333 miles. I purchased the vehicle in the summer of 1998. I have a rough mileage log obtained from smog tests in CA every two years (I have information from test reports that go back to 1993. Because I live in CA, my truck is fully smogged with the original 2F engine.

I'll list below what I am planning on doing and indicate when it is completed. If there is any thing to report, I'll do that in future posts. I can add to the list as things come up.

• Replace spark plugs, distributor rotor and cap COMPLETED
• test spark plug wires COMPLETED
• test coil COMPLETED
• replace air filter COMPLETED
• replace fuel filter COMPLETED
• replace vacuum tubing COMPLETED
• replace v-belts
• Change engine oil
• change engine coolant
• test emissions systems
• check/adjust valve lash
• perform compression test
• clean in situ or rebuild carburetor
• repair cracked exhaust pipe flange
• Change transmission, transfer and differential oils
• change brake fluid
• check brake pads and linings and adjust drums
• lube chassis
• lube knuckles

You can tell a lot of these activities are prescribed by the Toyota Maintenance Procedures manual. However, I will also be referring to procedures in the 2F engine and Body and Chassis manuals as needed.

Ignition system: These items I completed already and it was straight forward.

• I did notice, however, that the spark plugs from cylinders 1 through 4 were a bit "sticky" (hard to remove), which I have not experienced before. I'm used to being able to spin out the plugs after breaking loose the plug. The plug threads looked OK so maybe they are just gummy from lack of use (?).
• I also tested the high tension (spark plug) wire resistance per the 2F engine manual. The spec is "less than 25k ohms per cord" Since all the wires are different lengths, each wire should have a different resistance. I plotted the resistance vs the cord length for the six spark plug wires plus the coil cord (red dot). All are substantially less than the 25k ohm limit and it does look like there is a consistent relationship between length and resistance. So I decided NOT to replace these wires.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• I also measured resistance of the primary and secondary coils for the ignition coil. the primary measured resistance was right or slightly above the limit of 0.7 ohm. I also checked a a new-in-box coil with a similar result. I think realized that my digital multi meter measures 0.2 ohm, when the leads are touched together (ie. no resistance). So I figured I needed to delete the 0.2 from my measurement to get the result. Anyway, I think my coil is OK.

Vacuum Tubing: in 1999, I installed silicone vacuum tubing I purcahsed from McMaster Carr. This was 24 years ago! I decided instead of inspecting some or all of the tubing, I would just replace it. The installed tubing was dirty on the exterior, but still pliable and I didn't find any systemic issues. I probably didn't have to change this tubing but I wanted to make sure there were no leaks and all the tubes are corrected properly. I now have a label maker that prints on shrink tubing, so I used this to label each tube. It was a bit of work and I don't know how well the labels will last, but we shall see:

 

[OSS]

I’ve got a feeling that this will become a reference document for everyone

 

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So today I replaced the 3 v-belts and adjusted the valves, hot. Over the past month I had replaced the spark plugs and distributor cap and rotor and replaced the fuel filter. I had not started the truck for that period of time and I was surprised when it wouldn't start. Usually over a two week or more period, the fuel disappears from the carburetor bowl and I'm used to having to crank a bit to get fuel to the carburetor. However, after the usual amount of cranking there was still no fuel in the sight glass, nothing shooting out the accelerator jet. However, there was some fuel in the fuel filter. I loosened the fuel supply line nut at the carburetor and cranked my engine using my remote starter switch and nothing was coming out the fuel line. I took a little break and when I came back I tried again with the fuel supply line and my remote start switch, but this time I removed the cap to my fuel tank. Within a few cranks I had fuel squirting out the end of the fuel supply line. I reconnected the line to the carburetor and the engine was running again!

I suppose this could mean my fuel pump is getting weak and won't pull air against the sealed fuel tank. Or maybe the pump check valves dried out and wouldn't seal properly (this is mentioned in the 2F engine manual). When I removed the fuel tank cap there was a "whoosh" but I don't know if it is under vacuum or pressure.

As part of this refresh, I will be going through the tests in the emissions manual so maybe something will come out of that exercise.

I do have a new OEM fuel pump. I don't think my existing fuel pump has ever been replaced. maybe it's time to do so.

Any recommendations?

 

[OSS]

my guess was the tank was under negative pressure and the pump couldn't pull against it. That 'whoosh' my guess was air getting sucked in which is kind of normal depending on the temperature and fuel level in the tank.
Keeping the gas tank near full would prevent that and also prevent the formation of condensation in the tank which leads to rust

 

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Thanks, OSS. I have to figure out which way the whoosh goes in the next couple of days. I do have an OEM fuel cap which has a "safety valve" as identified by the EVAP section in the 2F emissions manual. I did the inspection as described below. I was able to grab the edge of the safety valve with a pick and lift it from it's seat, so I don't think mine is stuck. And it looks like it is supposed to break any vacuum that may occur in the tank, although I don't know the break-open force of the safety valve.

The CA emissions folks do test the integrity of the cap but I can't find it if it is over pressure only or also includes under pressure (vacuum).

 

[OSS]

I’d think that CA smog test cap test is testing the cap to ensure it holds pressure. (Not vacuum). CARB is concerned with gas tanks evaporating into the atmosphere. They don’t care if the tank sucks in air. . Is my guess

 

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Well this weekend I got around to replacing the fuel pump. I have had a new pump and spacer waiting for action for probably 15 years or more. The old pump came out with the spacer stuck to the pump. There was a gasket between the old pump and old spacer, but there didn't appear to be a gasket stuck to the engine block or on the exposed face of the old spacer. My new spacer had the integrated gaskets. The new pump and spacer went on easily. I'll keep an eye out for leaks incase the old gasket was stuck to the block...After I cleaned up the old pump a little I went through the tests from the 2F Engine manual. The old pump passed all the tests except for the last one, paragraph 4/fig. 6.6. I guess this means there is a "leak" in the lower chamber of the pump. Anyway, my new pump seems to be working fine!

 

[Spike Strip]

So today I replaced the 3 v-belts and adjusted the valves, hot. Over the past month I had replaced the spark plugs and distributor cap and rotor and replaced the fuel filter. I had not started the truck for that period of time and I was surprised when it wouldn't start. Usually over a two week or more period, the fuel disappears from the carburetor bowl and I'm used to having to crank a bit to get fuel to the carburetor. However, after the usual amount of cranking there was still no fuel in the sight glass, nothing shooting out the accelerator jet. However, there was some fuel in the fuel filter. I loosened the fuel supply line nut at the carburetor and cranked my engine using my remote starter switch and nothing was coming out the fuel line. I took a little break and when I came back I tried again with the fuel supply line and my remote start switch, but this time I removed the cap to my fuel tank. Within a few cranks I had fuel squirting out the end of the fuel supply line. I reconnected the line to the carburetor and the engine was running again!

I suppose this could mean my fuel pump is getting weak and won't pull air against the sealed fuel tank. Or maybe the pump check valves dried out and wouldn't seal properly (this is mentioned in the 2F engine manual). When I removed the fuel tank cap there was a "whoosh" but I don't know if it is under vacuum or pressure.

As part of this refresh, I will be going through the tests in the emissions manual so maybe something will come out of that exercise.

I do have a new OEM fuel pump. I don't think my existing fuel pump has ever been replaced. maybe it's time to do so.

Any recommendations?

The stock gas cap only allows for vacuum relief for the tank (this is not tested at the smog station, only pressure for evaporative sys integrity). I believe the PCV system also creates some mild vacuum in the tank, through the charcoal cannister, but not sure and can't break out the manual at the moment to verify.

My guess is you're right that it's a combination of tired pump and vacuum being created in the fuel tank. New cap is cheap, and if your Charcoal Cannister lines are still hooked up as stock, then not a bad idea to replace the gas cap. I have yet to encounter a stock cannister where the check valve isn't buggered.

 

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I also started going through the tests for the emissions components in the 2F emissions manual.

My Evap system passed the test, so I still need to look into whether my gas tank is holding pressure or vacuum and whether that is an issue.

When testing my EGR system, I got a strange result. I think I got this same result some years ago (2010) I replaced the EGR Modulator with a new OEM one. I was trying to correct an engine hesitation and I think I got a similar result from this test with the old EGR modulator. After I replaced it, IIRC, I got a similar strange result...I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar experience or any advice what to do.

I pass tests 3, 4, and 5 a,b below. However, when I apply manifold vacuum (from the ac idle up manifold vacuum source port directly to port R, I still get a "low" vacuum reading applied from port Q to the EGR valve. The vacuum reading is similar to what I get with test 5b.

When I do the specific tests for the vacuum modulator (below), it checks out OK. There is also a test (not shown here) to connect manifold vacuum directly to the EGR valve where the engine should, and does, runs rough or dies.

 

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The stock gas cap only allows for vacuum relief in the tank (this is not tested at the smog station, only pressure for evaporative sys integrity). I believe the PCV system also creates some mild vacuum in the tank, through the charcoal cannister, but not sure and can't break out the manual at the moment to verify.

My guess is you're right that it's a combination of tired pump and vacuum being created in the fuel tank. New cap is cheap, and if your Charcoal Cannister lines are still hooked up as stock, then not a bad idea to replace the gas cap. I have yet to encounter a stock cannister where the check valve isn't buggered.

Thanks. A buddy of mine already blasted me for not just replacing the gas cap. I did partly disassemble my cap (post #5) and didn't notice anything wrong. Since then I haven't driven the truck enough to see if there is any change in the fuel tank pressure. My same buddy also blasted me for not driving my FJ60 enough, so I'll get out soon.

 

[OSS]

I owned — 5 used EGR valves that I collected over the years and none of them including the one on the engine performed exactly like a new one.
When the valve gets old and has a lot of miles on it, the spring that pushes the piston back down gets weaker, which means the valve can open sooner and farther.
“Sooner” and “farther” when describing EGR valve function always ends up with the valve opening before it’s ideal and letting in more exhaust gas into the intake manifold than what’s ideal.

Bottom line: engine can stumble a bit during light acceleration.

 

[Spike Strip]

What's your vacuum reading at idle?

Manifold vac at 2500 rpm should be close to idle vacuum. If you're getting lower reading for EGR test 5d may indicate vacuum leak in the modulator.

 

[OSS]

Light throttle acceleration doesn’t play nice with a tired EGR valve. Usually just accelerating with more gusto can offset premature EGR intake.

 

[Spike Strip]

I realize your egr modulator is relatively new, but FWIW, @OSS posted some years ago an ebay aftermarket modulator that I then bought and it worked fine (still on there). It was cheap. I wish new EGR valves were available. I suppose a cheaper option would be to move to Tennessee ...

 

[OSS]

The only workable solution to FJ60 EGR hell is to have JC recurve the distributor for non EGR use and run the engine without EGR between smog tests. On smog test day just hook up the EGR valve and test. It’ll pass. Mine did.

 

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So I've been away from this thread for a while. I was distracted with some other stuff, then more recently I've been working on an exhaust leak which turned into several leaks. Now I am rebuilding my spare carburetor. So far I have taken it apart and have put everything through the ultrasonic cleaner. My secondary main jet is a little messed up, so I purchased some Mukini replacements that are supposed to work...I just ordered them today, so I'm waiting...

I did find a little brass jet or aerator that I can't seem to find on the carburetor parts diagram or mentioned in the 2F engine manual. Does anyone know what this is?

The main hole at the one end is 1.9mm. There is a 0.5mm hole at the other end. and then several holes around the side. I guess this is why I think this is an aerator--holes in the side let air into the flowing gas. It is installled on the underside of the carburetor top (air horn) in the same general area as the FCS/ICS. Any Ideas? This is mostly a triva question. The one I have is in good condition and I'll put it back in where I found it.

 

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I did get my back up carburetor put back together, installed, and idle mixture set. It runs pretty good now.

The Mukini jets did fit, but the threads seemed a little tight. I measured the threads on my old ones to be M5x0.8, but some references I found for the Mukini jets say the threads are M5x0.7. The new seemed to be the same as the old when I lay them side by side but the thread run is pretty short so I'm not sure I would notice the difference between 0.7 and 0.8 with that comparison. I did get them to screw in and I didn't seem to strip the female threads in the carb body, so I guess I'm OK.

I ended up using some EvapoRust in my ultrasonic cleaner for the linkages and the throttle body. EvapoRust really does clean up the parts nicely. I used a spray can of SC1 High Gloss Coating (silicone coating) on the linkages to try and protect them.

The rubber boot on my slow cut valve had hardened and broken. I removed the old one and used a small o-ring with some heat shrink tubing to form a replacement boot.

Now I am rebuilding the other carb.

I still have the question about the mystery jet I posted about before. Both my carbs have one.

 

[Spike Strip]

What size Jets did you use?

 

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The sizes are 147.5 for primary and 200 for secondary. I believe those are “hundredths of a millimeter” so 200 = 2.00 mm diameter. My originals were 147 and 200 respectively.

The jet style is N100.604 which is sometimes called the “large head”. The head is the same diameter as the oem jet (8mm IIRC) but it is a little longer. However once seated they do not protrude into the carburetor bowl.

 

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I realize your egr modulator is relatively new, but FWIW, @OSS posted some years ago an ebay aftermarket modulator that I then bought and it worked fine (still on there). It was cheap. I wish new EGR valves were available. I suppose a cheaper option would be to move to Tennessee ...

Thanks @Spike Strip . Do you or @OSS remember which ebay EGR modulator works for the FJ60. I can find one that references "land cruiser" but the vehicle application starts with 1988 (FJ62). However there are other applicable Toyota models listed prior to 1988, but not the land cruiser.

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On my newest modulator I think the filter is clogged, so are there any suggestions what to replace that with?