I read your build thread about you going with 5*. I believe with Dustin's kit the 7* will work because the engine is pushed forward 2.5" so it seems that much should let the throttle linkage clear but that is a guess on my part.
Switching my 97LC-4bt swap to Isuzu 4bd1t (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lckarl
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lckarl
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- #62
I suppose I should try to get this thread up to date since my truck is up and running. But before I get to that let me back track a bit.
Last summer I bought a rear bumper from Sean H., but I didn't want to install it until I dealt with the bottom of my rear quarters. They weren't totally horrible but I didn't want to be faced with removing the bumper later. It is decisions like this that can cause a project to drag on. It is however completely unrelated to the swap itself.
I want to take a moment to mention how nice Sean's rear bumper is and I will post some photos of it shortly.
View attachment 1116988 View attachment 1116989
Last summer I bought a rear bumper from Sean H., but I didn't want to install it until I dealt with the bottom of my rear quarters. They weren't totally horrible but I didn't want to be faced with removing the bumper later. It is decisions like this that can cause a project to drag on. It is however completely unrelated to the swap itself.
I want to take a moment to mention how nice Sean's rear bumper is and I will post some photos of it shortly.
View attachment 1116988 View attachment 1116989
dirtyboots
Atrocious Driving
Any contact info for Sean's shop? IIRC there was a thread re: a high clearance bumper I am guessing this is the same bumper and can be purchased? Also very interested in reading more about the 4BD1T progress! Excellent pics and write up thank you for your time.
dirtyboots
Atrocious Driving
also forgot to ask where did you get that ground magnet for your welder?
lckarl
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- #67
I found the one in the picture at a local welding supply shop. If you google "magnetic welding ground" you will find plenty of online purchase options. It comes in real handy in situations where it is hard to find a spot to clamp on to. However it can be an issue if you want to weld stainless, aluminum, etc.
Regarding the bumper, I have posted some pics. Sean's info, well he is on here as "sean" so that is simple enough. I just started a conversation with him to place my order.
As you can see she was very dirty, so she got a bath.
lckarl
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- #68
Except for the flanges, the muffler, and some hanger stuff all of the piping is 300 series stainless from the scrap yard. All of the piping is about .0625" which I believe is around 16 gauge. Some of the piping was from a Lamborghini whose owner scrapped the factory exhaust for something better (lighter), unfortunately I had no use for anything that had the raging bull embossed on it.
The bad part about using the misc. piping is piecing everything together. I can't bend it, if you do have access to a large enough tubing bender it will start to kink after maybe 10-15 deg of bend. Any of the pieces that are bent were already bent when I got them. So I pieced things together to change angle/direction and basically get around stuff. I also cut out a couple of sections and flipped a piece of tubing over to fill in the space and gain some clearance. I did this to give myself extra clearance around the transmission filler tube/dip stick and also on top of the transfer case.
If you are buying flanges try to get ones that notch together/interlock in some fashion. I welded pins into one the the flanges that did not interlock so that they would stay in alignment.
lckarl
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- #69
Ok, so I finished running my exhaust out the back of my truck. It is made up of a combination of 2.5", 2.75" oval and 3" tubing. I haven't decided if I am going to extend the tip further out from its current location or just leave it be.
Now that I have finished running my exhaust, I can now finally make my rear fuel tank.
Now that I have finished running my exhaust, I can now finally make my rear fuel tank.
lckarl
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- #70
A couple of weeks ago I finished welding/filling all of my fender holes. I had already finished one side a while ago but now that the 80 is back under its own power it was now easier to turn around to get access to the other side.
I wanted the back of the holes to be smooth so I used a thick piece of copper wire that I folded over to cover the back of some of the hard to reach holes. I used another tool on the easier to reach holes (sorry couldn't find a picture) that has a copper pad at one end and a magnet at the other to hold it in place.
I wanted the back of the holes to be smooth so I used a thick piece of copper wire that I folded over to cover the back of some of the hard to reach holes. I used another tool on the easier to reach holes (sorry couldn't find a picture) that has a copper pad at one end and a magnet at the other to hold it in place.
lckarl
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- #71
Another thing I did to the 80 this past week was the installation of a cooling system filter.
There is already a port on the thermostat housing and another port (return? if it isn't the return it would be sending uncooled coolant to the turbo) on the water pump, I believe these were originally used to feed coolant to the factory turbo. My Holset HE221 is not set up to be cooled by the cooling system so I decided to use these ports to feed a coolant filter which I installed on the upper driver side cowl. Since it is only sheet metal there I made a plate that acts like one large washer to help distribute the clamping pressure and hold the weight of the filter. I wanted to get it as high as possible so when it comes time to change it I won't need to drain the cooling system.
However if it wasn't installed at a high point in the system one could add shutoffs to limit the loss of coolant. Also, what I have done here is bypassing the thermostat which might have an effect on warm up times especially if it is cold out so I might add shutoffs just for the purpose of stopping the flow.
There is already a port on the thermostat housing and another port (return? if it isn't the return it would be sending uncooled coolant to the turbo) on the water pump, I believe these were originally used to feed coolant to the factory turbo. My Holset HE221 is not set up to be cooled by the cooling system so I decided to use these ports to feed a coolant filter which I installed on the upper driver side cowl. Since it is only sheet metal there I made a plate that acts like one large washer to help distribute the clamping pressure and hold the weight of the filter. I wanted to get it as high as possible so when it comes time to change it I won't need to drain the cooling system.
However if it wasn't installed at a high point in the system one could add shutoffs to limit the loss of coolant. Also, what I have done here is bypassing the thermostat which might have an effect on warm up times especially if it is cold out so I might add shutoffs just for the purpose of stopping the flow.
lckarl
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- #72
As I mentioned in the previous post I ended up using a Holset HE221 turbo. The wastegate on this turbo is mounted to both the compressor side and the exhaust side so the turbo cannot be clocked with out making a new bracket for the wastegate. Also, there is a pin that prevents the turbo from being rotated/clocked unless it is removed.
In the second picture the turbo is sitting in the engine bay but my compressor outlet needs to be rotated about 180 degrees. In the last picture the turbo has been clocked but now the wastegate has nothing to attach to.
In the second picture the turbo is sitting in the engine bay but my compressor outlet needs to be rotated about 180 degrees. In the last picture the turbo has been clocked but now the wastegate has nothing to attach to.
lckarl
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- #74
At the opposite end of the compressor side of the turbo, the air intake, I needed to make a fitting to bolt to the intake, so I would have a way to attach the intake piping. Here are some pics of what I made including the gasket. I welded the pipe to the inside of the flange so there wouldn't be any weld on the outside to interfere with the silicone elbow seating all the way plus it made for a cleaner look especially since my aluminum welds aren't very pretty.
lckarl
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A couple of days ago while on a short test drive (working on dialing in my new throttle linkage setup) this happened.
Part of my compressor side plumbing came apart, hit the fan and destroyed it. I think now I am just going to go with electric fans. I was lucky that nothing hit the radiator.
It is hard to see in the pic, but the section of tubing that went into the elbow that connects to the intercooler came apart.
I took all of the piping on the compressor side of the turbo off and welded little detents in 4 or 5 spots at each end of the stainless tubing. I have no intention of running high boost so hopefully this will suffice to hold things together.
Fan is now off with lots of space in front of the engine.
Part of my compressor side plumbing came apart, hit the fan and destroyed it. I think now I am just going to go with electric fans. I was lucky that nothing hit the radiator.
It is hard to see in the pic, but the section of tubing that went into the elbow that connects to the intercooler came apart.
I took all of the piping on the compressor side of the turbo off and welded little detents in 4 or 5 spots at each end of the stainless tubing. I have no intention of running high boost so hopefully this will suffice to hold things together.
Fan is now off with lots of space in front of the engine.
lckarl
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- #76
Since the prior post was on the topic of my turbo/intercooler piping here are a couple more pics, but not carnage related. One of my goals from the outset was to keep the stock air cleaner. Hooking up the piping from the air filter housing was relatively simple. I carefully trimmed off the metal tab on the air cleaner outlet so I had a uniform lip around the perimeter.
The last picture shows the engine as it is at the moment. I did not weld detents on the section of piping running from the air cleaner to the turbo since it isn't on the pressure side of the compressor, but maybe I should just to be safe.
The last picture shows the engine as it is at the moment. I did not weld detents on the section of piping running from the air cleaner to the turbo since it isn't on the pressure side of the compressor, but maybe I should just to be safe.
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Do not worry about pre turbo pipe beads. Just make sure all your boosted pipes have them.
lckarl
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- #78
That is pretty much what I was thinking, but then I started to get images in my head of something vibrating apart unexpectedly. So I thought I might do it just for peace of mind.
Here is a pic of the goodies in the box from HGM Electronics, maker of "Compushift II".
For anyone who might be wondering why some of the wiring loom stuff looks dirty it is because Mike at HGM had me send in parts of my wiring harness so they can wire it into their controller and also test it before they send it back to you. I sent the part of the harness that has all of the transmission related plugs including the actual Park Nuetral Position Safety Switch.
I will post up more pics of the installed Compushift II, when I get a chance.
lckarl
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My cooling system didn't seem to be circulating, not sure why, could be air in the system, engine isn't warming up enough to open thermostat, thermostat is new but might have been stuck so I took it out checked it and put it back, cooling jackets in block might be fouled up with nasty gunk, water pump might be bad.
I decided to flush the cooling system. So I installed a "T" with a hose connection. I drained the new coolant from the radiator, connected the hose to my new "T" and let the fun begin. The picture below is after the water was already running for a few minutes. It was darker with rust at the beginning. The water you see in the pics has no coolant in it. Any color to the water is from stuff in the engine.
I decided to flush the cooling system. So I installed a "T" with a hose connection. I drained the new coolant from the radiator, connected the hose to my new "T" and let the fun begin. The picture below is after the water was already running for a few minutes. It was darker with rust at the beginning. The water you see in the pics has no coolant in it. Any color to the water is from stuff in the engine.
lckarl
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- #80
As I mentioned in the previous post I have been messing around with my cooling system. Since I didn't have any idea about the age/history of the existing water pump I decided to replace it.
I have had problems recently finding parts specified for the 4bd1t. The online Isuzu parts suppliers I have been using seem to have stopped supporting online parts ordering. If you call them (which I haven't) maybe they have parts, but they no longer seem to be showing diagrams with matching part #'s listed. Anyway, I ended up ordering a water pump specified for a 4bd2t (via Amazon) which looked like the same one on my 4bd1t. The main difference seems to be the added port on the return side of the 4bd1t pump. The lack of the port on the new pump forced me to reroute my coolant filter. One other thing to note is the new pump casting was a bit bigger than my pump and I had to grind about a 1/16" of metal off part of the bottom to get it to fit. Also, the gasket that came with the pump seemed to be shoved into the box and hence had a small tear in it.
As it turned out the existing pump was actually in pretty good shape, so I guess I have a spare now.
I have had problems recently finding parts specified for the 4bd1t. The online Isuzu parts suppliers I have been using seem to have stopped supporting online parts ordering. If you call them (which I haven't) maybe they have parts, but they no longer seem to be showing diagrams with matching part #'s listed. Anyway, I ended up ordering a water pump specified for a 4bd2t (via Amazon) which looked like the same one on my 4bd1t. The main difference seems to be the added port on the return side of the 4bd1t pump. The lack of the port on the new pump forced me to reroute my coolant filter. One other thing to note is the new pump casting was a bit bigger than my pump and I had to grind about a 1/16" of metal off part of the bottom to get it to fit. Also, the gasket that came with the pump seemed to be shoved into the box and hence had a small tear in it.
As it turned out the existing pump was actually in pretty good shape, so I guess I have a spare now.
