Switching my 97LC-4bt swap to Isuzu 4bd1t

[lckarl]

More pics of the process. Motor cleaned up and painted but not all back together.
I took the oil pan off so I could see if there was any evidence of bad stuff going on in the engine. I saw no direct evidence of anything bad happening so I put on a new seal and buttoned it back up. I will see if I have any pics of the bottom end (of the engine).

 

[lckarl]

As well as getting the engine cleaned up, I have been doing other resto related stuff. I can't sandblast the rear axle without cleaning and painting other suspension pieces/parts. All of the parts were sandblasted and then I pressed out all of the old bushings and replaced with new OEM stuff from CDan, thanks for your help with all of the OEM parts. I used a 50ton press to change the bushings out, but only because that was what was available, I think the only time the press went over a ton on the pressure gauge was when something was going wrong, I screwed one of the new bushings up slightly (the metal sleeve on the outside of the rubber started to mushroom). I fixed it with a hammer and then improved my technique (started to lubricate the inside of the various rod ends). Let me add that I found this process to be a bit tedious, the metal sleeves on the outside of the bushings is not very thick, I had to turn pieces of round stock on a lathe slightly smaller than the diameter of the link/rod ends but not smaller than the metal sleeves on the bushings, plus I had to recess one end of these press tools I was making so as to not put pressure on the center sleeves of the bushings . At various points I wished I had just replaced the bushings with aftermarket poly stuff that I could have just pounded into place with a mallet. Anyway, I got it done.

 

[lckarl]

At some point after I changed the rear main seal and got the adapter bolted on I came to the realization that the alignment pin for the Jatco torque converter was still on the crank and it needed to come off before I could bolt the engine to the Toyota transmission. Well it wasn't easy to get a grip on it, seemed to be hardened and there was no way to get a puller on it. So I ended up welding a nut to it and screwing the end of a slide hammer in the nut, and then with a few taps from the slide hammer the pin was off. I was a little concerned about heating my newly installed rear main seal so I draped damp rags around the pin. I also had an unpleasant thought of catching the carpet or tire on fire and then things might have gotten really exciting.

 

[lckarl]

I had to grind about a 1/16" out of part of the engine block to get the starter to bolt up flat to the adapter. In the second pic the flywheel and flex plate have been bolted up.

 

[Adam R]

Keep up the great work! I have the same adapter as you, but I'm going the 4l80e route mated to the 80 series transfer case. I'm a few months behind you (rotating assembly is being balanced this week), but my project should pick up steam over the summer.

Adam

 

[lckarl]

Keep up the great work! I have the same adapter as you, but I'm going the 4l80e route mated to the 80 series transfer case. I'm a few months behind you (rotating assembly is being balanced this week), but my project should pick up steam over the summer.

Adam

Thanks, let me know if I can be of any help when the time comes, of course I won't have had any experience with the 4l80e hookup. My major short cut on this build was not tearing the engine down. I would like to find another one for cheap and rebuild it and swap them at some point, but of course I have other things to worry about before I get to that point.

Erik

 

[lckarl]

I changed the pump seal in the A343f before bolting the engine to it. If not it might lead to something like this or this or this . Hopefully the new pump seal will prevent any of that unpleasantness.

 

[McDowra]

How does the Isuzu motor external measurements compare to the original motor?

 

[alia176]

How does the Isuzu motor external measurements compare to the original motor?

add to that, what are weight differences?

I'm curious, would the Isuzu Trans be too large to fit in the same space as the A343F? I realize that it's a HD truck trans but it's also an Aisin if memory serves.

I see the net HP at 121, do you know what the torque is for this engine? Are you planning on turbo charging it?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

add to that, what are weight differences?

I'm curious, would the Isuzu Trans be too large to fit in the same space as the A343F? I realize that it's a HD truck trans but it's also an Aisin if memory serves.

I see the net HP at 121, do you know what the torque is for this engine? Are you planning on turbo charging it?

From my rough measurements the engine is 7" shorter in length and 2" taller. The weight is with in a few lbs, both come in the mid 700lb range. The Isuzu trans is a Jatco non OD from 86-97, the Asin did not come about behind them till 98 and the 4HE1 engine ( the trans is not compatible). To maintain 4wd and decent hwy cruise a toyota trans is the best way to go.

The 4BD1T is turbo from the factory netting its 124hp and 240ft/lbs in stock form. Adding a better more efficient turbo and an intercooler with some tweaks can get you into the 180-200hp 400-450ft/lbs relatively easy.

 

[lckarl]

add to that, what are weight differences?

I'm curious, would the Isuzu Trans be too large to fit in the same space as the A343F? I realize that it's a HD truck trans but it's also an Aisin if memory serves.

I see the net HP at 121, do you know what the torque is for this engine? Are you planning on turbo charging it?

The weight of the Isuzu engine is about 750lbs. The dimensions are:31.3in long x 27.8in wide x 29.7in tall. I don't know what the dimensions of the Toyota engine are, I could measure the one I took out.

The 1990 NPR that I used as the donor vehicle had a Jatco automatic, it was sometime later, mid to late 90's I believe when they switched to Aisin. Anyway, it was a 2 wheel drive application so it would be difficult to use in a 4x4 unless you had a divorced transfer case. I thought it would be fun to buy a newer Isuzu NPR and put an Atlas transfer case in it with something like a dana 60 up front, sorry that is off topic.

The engine came turbocharged from the factory (the "t" in 4bd1t stands for turbo), but the factory turbo is a bit wimpy so I am changing it. Plus the factory turbo/exhaust manifold set up hits the Toyota brake booster. So instead of messing with the stock braking setup I am going to make my own header/turbo setup. I will take pictures when I get to that point. Anyway, in stock form peak torque is around 240ft lbs @1800rpm. The 4bd1t can produce 180-200hp with a little injector work and turning the fuel pump up, and some turbo upgrades. The basic idea is to get more fuel and air into the cylinder=more hp. One of the great things about a diesel is you can tune it up to produce more power so it is there when you need it, but if you drive it easy the fuel mileage doesn't drop off, sometimes it even increases.

Below are a couple of pics of the 4bd1t still hooked up to the Jatco transmission. The last pic shows the close proximity of the turbo to the brake booster. I took that picture when I first test fitted the motor.

 

[lckarl]

From my rough measurements the engine is 7" shorter in length and 2" taller. The weight is with in a few lbs, both come in the mid 700lb range. The Isuzu trans is a Jatco non OD from 86-97, the Asin did not come about behind them till 98 and the 4HE1 engine ( the trans is not compatible). To maintain 4wd and decent hwy cruise a toyota trans is the best way to go.

The 4BD1T is turbo from the factory netting its 124hp and 240ft/lbs in stock form. Adding a better more efficient turbo and an intercooler with some tweaks can get you into the 180-200hp 400-450ft/lbs relatively easy.

Apparently I need to pay more attention, I responded to alia176's question before reading every post, sorry for the redundancy. At least I got to post a few more pics.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Have you looked at just flipping te turbo you are running so the exhaust exits towards the fire wall? Im planing to so that with mine, i have made quite a few manifolds before and bang for the buck the stock is usually hard to beat.

No need to mod the injectors, they flow far more than the stock inj pump can supply.

You and I look to be after the same sort of performance so I'm sure our setups will look very similar.

 

[lckarl]

Have you looked at just flipping te turbo you are running so the exhaust exits towards the fire wall? Im planing to so that with mine, i have made quite a few manifolds before and bang for the buck the stock is usually hard to beat.

No need to mod the injectors, they flow far more than the stock inj pump can supply.

You and I look to be after the same sort of performance so I'm sure our setups will look very similar.

I have thought about flipping the turbo, but I have yet to get it off the manifold. I periodically spritz it with WD 40 or similar product. I could always drill the bolts out if need be. We'll see how it goes. My main reason for making a new manifold would be for turbo location.

My main point with the injectors, was to make sure they are in proper working order, good spray pattern, popping at the correct pressure, etc.

I should post a video of the engine running in the NPR before I took it out. As a chassis cab the NPR was pretty quick and felt like it had good power, so I imagine up around 180-200hp in an 80 should be pretty fun and peppy.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I have thought about flipping the turbo, but I have yet to get it off the manifold. I periodically spritz it with WD 40 or similar product. I could always drill the bolts out if need be. We'll see how it goes. My main reason for making a new manifold would be for turbo location.

My main point with the injectors, was to make sure they are in proper working order, good spray pattern, popping at the correct pressure, etc.

I should post a video of the engine running in the NPR before I took it out. As a chassis cab the NPR was pretty quick and felt like it had good power, so I imagine up around 180-200hp in an 80 should be pretty fun and peppy.

Yeah, mine broke free fairly easy. I would diffently replace the turbo with something better suited. Im going to try a Volvo 850 turbo, its a TD04-13g that Im going to rebuild with a 19T compressor wheel. Both Dougel and Greg think its almost perfect for a fast spooling 200+hp
setup. Well see once I get mine done. Any idea what you are going to try?

Yes I agree get your injectors checked, you can actually un screw the tip and check the seat for degradation. One of mine looked new and the other 3 where beat! Im going to have a shop in CA re do them for me and new tips done.

 

[alia176]

Thanks for the detailed answers, helped me understand this swap process much better.

 

[lckarl]

Yeah, mine broke free fairly easy. I would diffently replace the turbo with something better suited. Im going to try a Volvo 850 turbo, its a TD04-13g that Im going to rebuild with a 19T compressor wheel. Both Dougel and Greg think its almost perfect for a fast spooling 200+hp
setup. Well see once I get mine done. Any idea what you are going to try?

Yes I agree get your injectors checked, you can actually un screw the tip and check the seat for degradation. One of mine looked new and the other 3 where beat! Im going to have a shop in CA re do them for me and new tips done.

Below are some pics of the turbo I will probably start with. I wanted to use a TD05, but they are a little harder to find especially good and cheap. The TD04 below is in good shape so I might not mess with anything for the time being.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Below are some pics of the turbo I will probably start with. I wanted to use a TD05, but they are a little harder to find especially good and cheap. The TD04 below is in good shape so I might not mess with anything for the time being.

Right, forgot you had that. It will work good, easy and cheap to upgrade later too. On ebay there are 19t wheel and cover kits for $150ish, just got one myself.

Enjoying seeing your progress.

 

[lckarl]

Right, forgot you had that. It will work good, easy and cheap to upgrade later too. On ebay there are 19t wheel and cover kits for $150ish, just got one myself.

Enjoying seeing your progress.

I am not sure exactly what version of TD04 this is, I haven't spent too much time trying to figure it out, but the compressor maps show that the 19t would definitely be better on the top end. The one I have I'm thinking will run out of juice. Have you seen anyone running compounds on a 4bd1t? That is one of those questions where you are kidding, but?

I haven't looked, are you running a build thread on here too?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I am not sure exactly what version of TD04 this is, I haven't spent too much time trying to figure it out, but the compressor maps show that the 19t would definitely be better on the top end. The one I have I'm thinking will run out of juice. Have you seen anyone running compounds on a 4bd1t? That is one of those questions where you are kidding, but?

I haven't looked, are you running a build thread on here too?

Yes that is a TD04L turbine, its the middle size turbine wheel. The 19T looking at the maps should preform very well all over the 4BD RPM range. I plan to run mine in the 20-25psi range. The TD04HL i have is almost the same size turbine as a the small TD05 so should work will with the 6cm turbine housing. The turbo you have will work well for a lower boost I have a feeling it will run out of breath though. The great thing with these turbos is they are cheap and there is lots of upgrades that can be done. All sorts of different size wheels and covers. I have only seen one 4BD1T with compounds and it was running a big plunger pump and other mods. If you are keeping the stock pump i would not worry about it. Just try what you have if it runs out of steam get a 19T upgrade kit and rebuild the turbo with that.

I do have a thread on here in the diesel section: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...uzu-4bd1t-lexus-lx450-land-cruiser-build.html

Cheers