Sway bar end link relocation (or "how to fit 34s with zero rubbing") (1 Viewer)

[nwfl4runner]

That kit seems really pricey. As best I can tell the only advantage vs buying the KDSS bracket and following what I did is that it gives you a double shear config for your sway bar end link. However for the extra $700 or whatever you could just find a local shop that would fab something for you.

Some 1/8” stock and you can extend the bucket. Has survived 2 cruise Moab trips.

 

[rlynch356]

@linuxgod what caster are you running?

 

[linuxgod]

@linuxgod what caster are you running?

About 3.3 degrees. I’ve run as high as 4 and as low as 3

 

[linuxgod]

Some 1/8” stock and you can extend the bucket. Has survived 2 cruise Moab trips.

View attachment 3676971

If I could weld I would do this though I’d just leave the original cradle and weld the new cradle outside it

 

[nwfl4runner]

If I could weld I would do this though I’d just leave the original cradle and weld the new cradle outside it

Bad news for me was when I let them links hang vertically they landed on the edge of the original cradle! Redoing it, I’d weld up a fully boxed extension and then weld it to the original bracket, almost sleeving it. Shockingly this has held so far, so I’m going to just keep running it till either it brakes or I replace the LCAs

 

[TeCKis300]

@nwfl4runner , what sway relocation bracket are you running on the frame side? I assume you're running one to require the end link to be moved forward?

 

[nwfl4runner]

@nwfl4runner , what sway relocation bracket are you running on the frame side? I assume you're running one to require the end link to be moved forward?

I run the endlinks on the outside of the swaybar because I’m on tundra arms

 

[TeCKis300]

I run the endlinks on the outside of the swaybar because I’m on tundra arms

Ah. Makes sense!

I'm looking to move my swaybar forward and wondering if any other LX are using a KDSS relocation bracket?

 

[Fancy 4x4]

I fixed my KDSS and passenger's side sway bar rub yesterday. zero rub now on 34s. (I say "I" but it was actually Rick @ ChiTown 4x4 that did the work since we had the truck on the lift to swap the diff fluid anyway).

KDSS relo kit + mounting the sway bar end links on the outside of the LCA cradle did the trick. Tons of clearance now. 34s fit without the dreaded rubbing at full lock now, even with caster pushed to the very top of the Toyota spec (3.3 deg DS, 3.7 deg PS). Previously I was hitting the KDSS arm at full right lock and the passenger's side sway bar at full left lock.

Parts required:

• Trail Tailor (or Slee) KDSS relocation kit (~$77)
• Two M14x1.5 (fine thread) 110mm bolts (~$15). These are hard to come by. The stock bolts are ~80mm. 100mm bolts (like those Toyota uses in the front diff mounts) only get maybe 4 threads to catch. boltdepot.com has 120mm bolts (Metric hex bolts, Zinc plated class 8.8 steel, 14mm x 1.5mm x 120mm - Bolt Depot - https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7276) which you can cut down to ~110mm. 120mm is a tad too long. (BTW Toyota marks these as grade "6T", whatever that means. The above link are grade 8.8 bolts, which I believe will be sufficient for this purpose.
• Two 1.5" (or 2", if you can find them) aluminum spacers, to fill the gap in the cradle (~$20). I ordered these (1-1/2" O.D x 1/2" I.D. Aluminum Spacers - Keyser Manufacturing - https://keysermanufacturing.com/product/1-1-2-o-d-1-2-i-d-aluminum-spacers/) and drilled the inner hole to 9/16" (~14.1mm). If you had some aluminum you could cut and drill your own. Note that these fit loosely into the cradle, but once you torque the bolt down they will tighten up.
• Ratchet strap and prying bar to move everything into position

Looking closely at the setup, he and I agreed that the end link does NOT rotate in the cradle once it's mounted. The cradle is just there to protect the end link and help ensure the bolt stays straight and rigid. So the only downside I can see to doing this is that if you took a big hit right on the bolt, you might destroy the head or bend the bolt slightly.

Note that the KDSS relo kit alone should let you fit 34s (and 35s, if your alignment is adjusted correctly), but without relocating your sway bar end links they will end up at a steep angle which will rapidly wear the rubber bushings inside them.

Thanks @Willy beamin for being the guinea pig on this and answering my (repeated) questions. If you're at the LCDC this year I owe you a beer.

Pics forthcoming

What is the torque spec for that flange bolt, I will be running this setup as well like yours.

 

[linuxgod]

What is the torque spec for that flange bolt, I will be running this setup as well like yours.

If you mean the sway bar end links, I’m running mine at 120 ft/lbs. I think the spec is like 95 but given the position and forces involved I felt it was wise to go further. I didn’t have any issues running the factory spec for ~20k miles though

 

[rlynch356]

Should have a prototype of a bolt on bracket/LCA skid done before the end of the year. That will put the longer bolt into a double shear arrangement again, and am doing custom spacers for the OE end link bracket. This will reuse the OE end links as well.

If I do a custom KDSS relo bracket, is there a wish list for an added 1/2” from say the trail tailor bracket ? (Not sure if it’s worth the effort since there are off the shelf solutions which are reasonable I.e. the trail tailor KDSS relocation bracket).

 

[linuxgod]

Should have a prototype of a bolt on bracket/LCA skid done before the end of the year. That will put the longer bolt into a double shear arrangement again, and am doing custom spacers for the OE end link bracket. This will reuse the OE end links as well.

If I do a custom KDSS relo bracket, is there a wish list for an added 1/2” from say the trail tailor bracket ? (Not sure if it’s worth the effort since there are off the shelf solutions which are reasonable I.e. the trail tailor KDSS relocation bracket).

Let me know if you want me to test these

I’d definitely like a KDSS relo bracket that is 1/2” further extended. The links are still slightly tweaked with the Slee or Trail Tailor brackets and it would be good to get them perfectly straight. Also it’s part of the way to fit 37s as an extra 1/2” of clearance is basically a 36” tire. The big question will be KDSS arm clearance to the body mounts and aftermarket front bumper, but again I’m willing to be a guinea pig.

 

[Jerz]

Should have a prototype of a bolt on bracket/LCA skid done before the end of the year. That will put the longer bolt into a double shear arrangement again, and am doing custom spacers for the OE end link bracket. This will reuse the OE end links as well.

If I do a custom KDSS relo bracket, is there a wish list for an added 1/2” from say the trail tailor bracket ? (Not sure if it’s worth the effort since there are off the shelf solutions which are reasonable I.e. the trail tailor KDSS relocation bracket).

Curious to know what your vision is entailing as this sounds similar to the Nitrone Auto kit offering. Being priced lower would be great

 

[rlynch356]

Potentially Similar, but I have never seen a Nitrone one outside of the Youtube or their website, of course. So I can't be sure.
Mine will function as a full LCA Skid as well and will be made from thick Aluminum, with no protruding bolts.

As for the Cost, not sure, but it will depend on how much it costs to make, but probably...
it will be made in North Carolina.
I'm leaning towards not doing the KDSS relocation chassis brackets since you can get those from Trail Tailor or Slee unless there is a need to have more forward spacing for tire fitment...

 

[TLC2013]

Potentially Similar, but I have never seen a Nitrone one outside of the Youtube or their website, of course. So I can't be sure.
Mine will function as a full LCA Skid as well and will be made from thick Aluminum, with no protruding bolts.

As for the Cost, not sure, but it will depend on how much it costs to make, but probably...
it will be made in North Carolina.
I'm leaning towards not doing the KDSS relocation chassis brackets since you can get those from Trail Tailor or Slee unless there is a need to have more forward spacing for tire fitment...

Right on. Eagerly waiting to see the finished product. Count me in!

 

[rlynch356]

I'll make a set of KDSS Plates that are 1/2" longer

 

[TeCKis300]

It might be hard to move the bar that much more forward with the relocation bracket strategy. The 1" correction just about butts up against a forward step. There's probably only another 1/8-1/4" harvest.

 

[rlynch356]

Have to see what we can do with the HAAS..
I'll give it a go but it may not make sense..

The current position has zero rub with the 275/75-17 throughout the articulation range, I'm confident on the 35/12.5-17 size but I have a set of mounted short 37"s (36" ish I believe) on methods that I can try as well.

We shall see...