Sway bar bolts snapping

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What happened to discussing sway bar failures/removal?

Can we avoid another interesting thread becoming polluted with a fight between the locals? (likely not, eh) :hhmm:

I removed the sway bar on my 4runner, and did not notice a worrisome difference on road. I haven't done it on the LC yet and would like to hear opinions of those who have. Thanks.


Adding to what I stated in #15 ;)...my experience driving a variety of Utah trails including HITR, Canyonlands, slow speed, high speed, up to about Class IV trail portions, etc. without the front ASB on our off-road tour last year was net positive. Faster front end cycling, better handling, better tracking even on the higher speed dirt work... In fact: With the ASB, as the front suspension height was set up for that trip, I never bottomed the front tires into the fender liner on hard front compression. But after the ASB mount broke and we removed it I was pushing the tires into the fender liners on similar compression....got just a little more compressed travel out of the front arms. But I never felt like, in those situations, I wanted or needed the front ASB.

But once we were off dirt and back on the highway it was scary. Straight aways were fine but anything resembling a twist in the road had to be met with a little trepidation and a whole lot less speed. And certainly not conducive whatsoever for any emergency type maneuvers on and at highway speeds.
 
To avoid rear swaybar link breakage, run long travel suspension and get smooth full articulation you should lengthen the swaybar links. This will keep factory geometry and avoid excess binding and stress to the links under hard articulation. 80 guys that wheel have known and done this for years. The 100 series rear suspension is basic the same as an 80 with a slightly wider axle.
 
To avoid rear swaybar link breakage, run long travel suspension and get smooth full articulation you should lengthen the swaybar links. This will keep factory geometry and avoid excess binding and stress to the links under hard articulation. 80 guys that wheel have known and done this for years. The 100 series rear suspension is basic the same as an 80 with a slightly wider axle.

I originally extended my rear links (2"); however the sway bar moves quite a bit laterally during full articulation. I think I'm going to fab an 80 series style drop frame bracket, and go back to OEM length link, to see if it keeps the sway bar from moving so much laterally. Probably not a big deal but the sway bar ends up rubbing on the lower control arms/lower control arm mount bolt heads.
 
I originally extended my rear links (2"); however the sway bar moves quite a bit laterally during full articulation. I think I'm going to fab an 80 series style drop frame bracket, and go back to OEM length link, to see if it keeps the sway bar from moving so much laterally. Probably not a big deal but the sway bar ends up rubbing on the lower control arms/lower control arm mount bolt heads.

A linked swaybar moves on the 80 also FWIW. I bent the link on my 80 at Moab and yes it does have L shocks:grinpimp:
 
A linked swaybar moves on the 80 also FWIW. I bent the link on my 80 at Moab and yes it does have L shocks:grinpimp:

Ok...good to know. Now I won't waste my time. Merci beaucoup. :D
 
Are you sure you don't drive a Peugeot? :flipoff2:

Its in honor of our French dudes that came all the way to hang with us on our Explore Nevada trip last month...oh hell we had a German here too! Oh-oh! Was soll ich jetzt tun? :lol:
 
Did anybody find a permanent solution to the front ASB links breaking? My DS snapped recently, and I've got 2 new OEM ones coming in. I don't like the ride at high speeds without the front ASB functioning - it gets a little dicey when loaded. The mounting bolt on the LCA is fine, it's the vertical part that sheared.
 
Once again I find myself with no ASB. I blew a link yesterday after hitting quite a large dip in the road hear where I work. I was going to replace the link again, climbed underneath and noticed the frame mount is tweaked. Which may cause this. I removed the ASB completely an have given up on it. Back to body roll but a much smoother ride. I think it's a trade off for city driving. Not exactly a good idea if you do mountain passes frequently. :eek: I remember blood mountain.... lol
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Half the bolts to the rear sway bar mount broke on mine while trying to unbolt them to do a spring swap. I still haven't been able to drill out the broken bolts. So I've just had no rear sway bar for months. I havne't noticed any ill effects even on mountain passes. Although my 285/75/16s did rub on the frame in the rear last time I went wheeling.
 
Half the bolts to the rear sway bar mount broke on mine while trying to unbolt them to do a spring swap. I still haven't been able to drill out the broken bolts. So I've just had no rear sway bar for months. I havne't noticed any ill effects even on mountain passes. Although my 285/75/16s did rub on the frame in the rear last time I went wheeling.

I don't think the rear sway bar really makes a difference, maybe a little bit but the front sway is where most of the "sway" takes place. I would imagine towing without a rear sway could get ugly. Anyways, I was cycling my suspension after doing several new mods on the rear axle and came to find the front end compressed more than I have ever seen. Front end cycles MUCH smoother than before.
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I don't think the rear sway bar really makes a difference, maybe a little bit but the front sway is where most of the "sway" takes place. I would imagine towing without a rear sway could get ugly. Anyways, I was cycling my suspension after doing several new mods on the rear axle and came to find the front end compressed more than I have ever seen. Front end cycles MUCH smoother than before.

You might be surprised. For highway driving at least, removing the rear swaybar is going to increase understeer. The front end will not turn in as well, and may tend to scrub the tires quite a bit particularly at highway speeds. Its hard to predict how pronounced this effect will be, but take it easy with the rear ASB disconnected/removed until you get a good feel for the understeer tendency.

For reference [and grins]
- Understeer is what you have when the front of the car hits the guard rail first
- Oversteer is what you have when the rear of the car hits the guard rail first
and for extra credit..
- Horsepower is how fast you hit the guard rail
- Torque is how far you move the guard rail once you hit it
 
You might be surprised. For highway driving at least, removing the rear swaybar is going to increase understeer. The front end will not turn in as well, and may tend to scrub the tires quite a bit particularly at highway speeds. Its hard to predict how pronounced this effect will be, but take it easy with the rear ASB disconnected/removed until you get a good feel for the understeer tendency.

For reference [and grins]
- Understeer is what you have when the front of the car hits the guard rail first
- Oversteer is what you have when the rear of the car hits the guard rail first
and for extra credit..
- Horsepower is how fast you hit the guard rail
- Torque is how far you move the guard rail once you hit it

lol...I am getting contact on the shock body right now so I plan on pulling the rear before I set my bump stop height. I am having to get used to the truck again, I can't tell you how much different it handles. It does soak up the speed bumps and pot holes much better. It doesn't bother me one bit though, I have always crept around corners like a 93 year old lady in a Lincoln Towncar
 
I have always crept around corners like a 93 year old lady in a Lincoln Towncar

Now that's funny! Sketchy trails and debatable stream crossings are OK, but those highways curvy things are dead scary. ;)

It does soak up the speed bumps and pot holes much better.

That's interesting. The ASBs should have no impact whatever on speed bumps where both wheels are deflecting equally. That's assuming they have full range of motion without binding. Reading this thread and the many broken swaybar mounts and bars points to binding problems as a potential cause. With the links unbolted, the bar itself should have full and free movement through its range of motion, without binding. If it doesn't, then its being subjected to forces it was not designed to take, and stuff will break. This applies to both front and rear bars. Only offer this in case it help someone trying to figure out why this is happening.
 
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I've carried a motorcycle on a rear hitch carrier (400lbs or so of tongue weight) with the rear ASB disconnected without issue. But actually pulling a trailer might be a different story. I keep breaking the left handed drill bits, but i have the new bolts ready to go but am debating just welding the brackets back on.
 
Sounds to me like a frame drop bracket is in order to bring the sway bar back into alignment. It sure would be nice if someone came out with a bar that can manually decoupled for off road use.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Sounds to me like a frame drop bracket is in order to bring the sway bar back into alignment. It sure would be nice if someone came out with a bar that can manually decoupled for off road use.

Too late. 5 minutes and it comes right off. Back to the ramp. With a near stock suspension setup (replacement shocks) the sway bars don't hinder travel. With my setup they do
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Sway bar bolt break.

Had a bolt on my sway bar shear off as well. All stock 2000 LC with 100k miles that has not been off roaded to my knowledge. Got home from a weekend trip to the in-laws and heard this awful clunking as I turned and went over bumps which was the metal on metal noise.

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Having never been spoiled by a working front ASB on my cruiser I can say I chase your average sports sedan up and down the Colorado mountains pretty well. Once you adjust and anticipate it's just a matter of cornering smoothly and you're all good. I would really be flying if I had less body roll but that's not really a good thing. Without the ASB, I do hesitate to let any uninitiated driver behind the wheel however.
So just don't share and you'll be fine!
 

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