Suspension advice - no offroading or lift needed

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Feb 27, 2022
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Location
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I just acquired a 2013 LC and am loving the ride! However, it has a sharp nosedive and body roll problem. The rear shock is leaking so instead of replacing with OEM, I am thinking of just doing an upgrade on all 4 sides. Please suggest some options based on my requirements below:
  1. 100% mall cruiser, no offroading
  2. At the most 2-3 occupants with no luggage, no roofrack or offroading bumpers
  3. Want to maintain OEM buttery ride but need to improve braking nose-dive and body roll
  4. No lift wanted, but not opposed to upto 1" if it expands my options
  5. Will put BFG KO2 tires on TRD Pro wheels soon. Same 265/70R17 size, not bigger. Purely cosmetic.
Also, when I do triple press of the lock button, my LC doesn't start. However, just saw the sticker under the hood (near the radiator) saying it has remote start. Any way to confirm this quickly?

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The nose dive is specifically related to the buttery ride. Soft spring rate, which is good for articulation and compliance off-road, equals front/rear body roll on braking and acceleration. The only reason it doesn't lean more in turns is the KDSS system allowing very, very thick sway bars.

Keeping in mind this isn't an X5 and isn't trying to be, you'll need to choose.. buttery ride, or body control under braking. Can't really have both.
 
Well, you sorta can have both. In the sister 200-series. But I digress as that doesn't help the OP.

To answer the question, a set of Bilstein 5100s would probably do wonders to maintain as much of the stock compliance as possible, but tighten the ride a bit. They're tuned digressively with stronger initial damping force at low shock piston speeds. Which should help over stock, with relatively minor trade to ride. The KO2s may impact ride more however.

The 5100s have adjustable perches too. Select a no lift, or low lift perch and I think that'll be exactly what the OP is asking for. It could be tempting to lift a bit more, but that could exacerbate dive and lean as it increases the center of gravity, but also incrementally changes the anti-roll and anti-dive built into the suspension geometry
 
Personally I would vote replace with all new OEM parts. If you have no intention of offroading it (or even if you decide to do some light offroading down the road) the original suspension, without any leaks or failing components, works really well.
 
Personally I would vote replace with all new OEM parts. If you have no intention of offroading it (or even if you decide to do some light offroading down the road) the original suspension, without any leaks or failing components, works really well.
I agree. Having done this with factory takeoffs on a '13, I can attest that it made a massive difference.
 
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Well, you sorta can have both. In the sister 200-series.
Lol still at it! Uhhh no.

For OP, get new OEM shocks. Nothing aftermarket will match the on-road ride and handling compromise. Stock suspension performs fine for a big SUV. YES, brake dive will remain but on-road handling in LC is pretty good with good OEM shocks…exceeding the sister.
 
Lol still at it! Uhhh no.

For OP, get new OEM shocks. Nothing aftermarket will match the on-road ride and handling compromise. Stock suspension performs fine for a big SUV. YES, brake dive will remain but on-road handling in LC is pretty good with good OEM shocks…exceeding the sister.

LOL, this just kills you doesn't it?
 
Remote start: Click the lock button, listen for the beep. Repeat. Repeat again and keep the lock button pressed down. It'll take a few seconds to get the message and start. Patience is key.
 
The leaking rear shock is the key. The suspension is worn out and I bet replacing all 4 corners with new OEM shocks will be the best compromise between comfy ride and sharp handling. Reconsider the tire decision. I've no experience with BFG tires, but I suspect any AT tire will harden the ride compared to a highway tire. If you want to maintain the OEM "buttery ride", find a highway tire for which you can live with the looks.
 
The leaking rear shock is the key. The suspension is worn out and I bet replacing all 4 corners with new OEM shocks will be the best compromise between comfy ride and sharp handling. Reconsider the tire decision. I've no experience with BFG tires, but I suspect any AT tire will harden the ride compared to a highway tire. If you want to maintain the OEM "buttery ride", find a highway tire for which you can live with the looks.
Yeah something like Michelin Defender in stock size.
 
LOL @TeCKis300 + @Madtiger - the love story continues.

But seriously though @7summits sounds lik the LX is exactly what you're looking for.
Unfortunately adding AHC would be a major and costly undertaking, even if 200 LCs had the option.
Easy to rip it out, but putting it in is probably exorbitant and in the i dont even want to know territory.

Go test drive an LX, you can actually get some money for the trade ^up^ probably and wash taxes.
Plus as a bonus you get to not drive a Toyota anymore.
 
LX wins across the board. If you have to have the LC face, it bolts on. Win win.
 
you say it is a mall cruiser KO2s will make what you are trying to eliminate worse. Like others have said replace the worn suspension with OEM and then do a highway oriented all season tire.

I have an LX and even with AHC it rides drives like the >6k lumbering elephant it is. I love my 200 but anything close to sporty it is not.
 
Remote start: Click the lock button, listen for the beep. Repeat. Repeat again and keep the lock button pressed down. It'll take a few seconds to get the message and start. Patience is key.

I tried it a few times using all sort of combinations but can't get it to work. Leads me to believe maybe it was an aftermarket system and I don't have that remote.. or maybe the system was removed at some point, or some electrical issue maybe...
 
Thanks all for the replies! Appreciate it.

So it looks like OEM springs and shocks is the way to go. You all made me rethink BFG KO2 tires! I was thinking of getting those with matte Bronze Heritage edition type wheels..

But maybe I will do OEM suspension refresh first and then see how much it improves, if any. Then I can think about tires after a few months.

I am currently on a 3 week long road trip driving the truck from CA to NJ. Just bought it from CA few days ago and am loving it so far! Maybe it is "hyper-sensitive" break-in period where every minor thing is easy to see. I come from a Ford Mustang world where the ride quality was on the other end of the spectrum and maybe I will just get used to this elephant over time.
 
Agree on doing suspension refresh first then figuring out what to do with tires.

One detail.. Note that it’s not necessarily the fact that they are all-terrains, it’s that most of them are offered in heavier-duty “LT-metric” aka Light Truck construction that kills ride quality. This is primarily because that heavy duty construction requires about 10psi more cold inflation pressure to safely support the same load, and the resulting increase in tire spring rate means much more of the “harnshess” or sharpness of road irregularities come through. This is on top of the stiffer sidewalls and extra mass, but I’ve played with tire pressure a lot. The difference between 33 and 42psi on the same tire is dramatic.

This means that you can absolutely get a road-oriented tire and end up with significantly worse ride quality, if it happens to be LT-metric.

Just check the sizing of any tire. If it has a LT in front of the aspect ratio (3-digit number), it’ll ride more harshly than the stock p-metric tires.
 
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265/70/17?
Are you saying it already has 265s on it currently? Seems unsafe going that narrow. But someone more informed chime in though.
 

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