HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
Looks like an original brass Yazaki battery terminal. If you can't find a match, send it my way..
Survivor '64 FJ40
- Thread starter locklaw
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Well spotted! It is indeed a Yazaki terminal correctly marked. I will rather keep it and buy one or more of your Yazaki positive terminals to fix up the original positive cable's connection
.
- Thread starter
- #43
Quick update. Not much has been done over the past few days, business has come in the way of playing.
I did, however fix the sloppy gear lever with a SOR fix-it kit which I can recommend over the OEM replacement pins in the old housing. Shifts are now positive.
I also swopped a few crusty push rods for good used ones, also sourced from SOR, and set the valve to rocker clearances which were all a bit loose.
She starts and runs even smoother now and still refuses to leak oil past the old timing cover and rear main oil seals. Did notice that the OEM rocker oiling is a dribble at best at the rockers, so this explains why the upgrade to the oiling occurred.
I cleaned out the rocker to shaft ports with 3 in 1 oil poured into the hole in each rocker with the motor running. Seems to work well.
I did, however fix the sloppy gear lever with a SOR fix-it kit which I can recommend over the OEM replacement pins in the old housing. Shifts are now positive.
I also swopped a few crusty push rods for good used ones, also sourced from SOR, and set the valve to rocker clearances which were all a bit loose.
She starts and runs even smoother now and still refuses to leak oil past the old timing cover and rear main oil seals. Did notice that the OEM rocker oiling is a dribble at best at the rockers, so this explains why the upgrade to the oiling occurred.
I cleaned out the rocker to shaft ports with 3 in 1 oil poured into the hole in each rocker with the motor running. Seems to work well.
- Thread starter
- #44
When I received this Cruiser, I immediately noticed the vent flap in the rear section of the roof. Looking at the hole cut for it it seemed neatly done at least but something I thought I'd have to close over time. It's haggard, rusty and tied down with a piece of wire but most all there -
Over the weekend I scoured through an old parts list manual to confirm machine screw replacement sizing and was very happy when I saw that this vent was a factory option for the seemingly non-US markets. I have not seen this before. Don't think it was the most popular accessory?
Over the weekend I scoured through an old parts list manual to confirm machine screw replacement sizing and was very happy when I saw that this vent was a factory option for the seemingly non-US markets. I have not seen this before. Don't think it was the most popular accessory?
HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
Save that part. Very hard to find. It was only used a year or so.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #46
Will definitely keep and save it Kitty! It's now staying
HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
The mechanicals are the same as a vent window.
- Thread starter
- #48
Ait of an update. With mechanicals seemingly sorted (it still refuses to leak oil or water and I only replaced the sump gasket, transfer case output and rear pinion seals with OEM ones) I started digging into the electrics.
Fortunately not too much PO stuff going on, except for the rear turn signal and brake light wiring at the rear crossmember where speaker wires and an 8 splice cobbled together trigger wire were used.
The front original turn signals had unfortunately needed to be cut off and replaced with new to get them going (refused to ground).
I however used the old turn signal buckets and lenses to replace the broken non-OEM rear turn signal lenses on a seemingly OEM sourced bracket bolted to the bumperettes before. A lot of cleaning, sanding/filing of terminals and a rebuild of the indicator lever switch later, I finally had no more significant voltage drop at the rear and both rear turn signals work -
Wiring is obviously not finished yet but in principle it works and I like being able to reuse the old front turn signal housings to create an OEM turn signal setup (red turn signals are illegal in South Africa). Even the old original flasher unit is coming alive with more and more use, as well as the red indicators -
Shockingly, the Cruiser came with 3 original and correctly marked (lock number) keys.
Fortunately not too much PO stuff going on, except for the rear turn signal and brake light wiring at the rear crossmember where speaker wires and an 8 splice cobbled together trigger wire were used.
The front original turn signals had unfortunately needed to be cut off and replaced with new to get them going (refused to ground).
I however used the old turn signal buckets and lenses to replace the broken non-OEM rear turn signal lenses on a seemingly OEM sourced bracket bolted to the bumperettes before. A lot of cleaning, sanding/filing of terminals and a rebuild of the indicator lever switch later, I finally had no more significant voltage drop at the rear and both rear turn signals work -
Wiring is obviously not finished yet but in principle it works and I like being able to reuse the old front turn signal housings to create an OEM turn signal setup (red turn signals are illegal in South Africa). Even the old original flasher unit is coming alive with more and more use, as well as the red indicators -
Shockingly, the Cruiser came with 3 original and correctly marked (lock number) keys.
- Thread starter
- #49
I als swopped out the beat to hell, torn and welded on upper front gussets with new OEM units and correct cup square hardware Bit shiny but better than what was on it (M12 bolts are only temporary place holders while the factory hooks and hardware were wire wheeled) -
