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- #21
Ok, update time. The PO really did not like changing oil, motor is heavily sludged but overall not too bad (did not take good photos of its current state, but this is what I found under the valve cover)
Survivor '64 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
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- #22
As I said, I pulled the head and the pistons and sleeves looked clean with no corrosion, so I pulled the pan and each main/crank bearing cap to see if it ate bearings (it did not). Took my time to eat a lot of brake cleaner and sludge to get the block as clean inside as I could but still could not find the reason why the motor was stuck.
While looking at a camshaft lobe which has pitting and being impressed by how clean the underside of the pistons looked I found the culprit, rust on the sleeves under two pistons which are keeping the motor stuck. Loosened the two offending rod caps and she moves!
Will make time tomorrow to knock out the two pistons and see if I can hone out the rust (fortunately at the bottom of the stroke, so I might get lucky).
While looking at a camshaft lobe which has pitting and being impressed by how clean the underside of the pistons looked I found the culprit, rust on the sleeves under two pistons which are keeping the motor stuck. Loosened the two offending rod caps and she moves!
Will make time tomorrow to knock out the two pistons and see if I can hone out the rust (fortunately at the bottom of the stroke, so I might get lucky).
HelloKitty65
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- #24
Ok, update time. Pistons came out without too much fuss and the bores cleaned up with a light hone. All pistons and rings are still standard with no scoring on the skirts and clean tops, indicating a happy motor when it last ran (a bit rich but not too bad).
Cleaned up the head surface with a mouse sander after sticking the pistons back in and it cleaned up well in anticipation of the new NOS OEM head gasket. After I torqued the rods and beaeings I spun the motor with my hand first and then with the key and starter a few times. It spins great and I was shocked to hear the points still arcing.
Cleaned up the head surface with a mouse sander after sticking the pistons back in and it cleaned up well in anticipation of the new NOS OEM head gasket. After I torqued the rods and beaeings I spun the motor with my hand first and then with the key and starter a few times. It spins great and I was shocked to hear the points still arcing.
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- #25
Also took some photos of the inside and looked around what was there. Only 1 fuse (a bolt!!!) but no real cutting, splicing or the like of the wiring. Headlights and cluster lights worked when I hooked up the battery with voltage at all gauges. Was thrilled to find the Vader light and OEM flasher under the dash and on the firewall.
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- #26
Some progress updates. With the motor fully assembled again and plugs in, I tried to start it but got really slow cranking.
Tried another battery and then the two joined with jumpers but no luck. Went and bought the strongest (in CCA terms) battery for the size (an AGM, since it needs a battery in any way) and still she was slow.
Swopped out the starter cable for a new Toyota one out of my V8 diesel 200 VX-R following a dual battery conversion (this cable is perfect for a 40 FYI) and while doing so I noticed that the bond strap between the frame and starter was loose (I had taken out the splash shield). My bad, cost a fair bit this oversight.
Anyway, cleaned the frame where the earth cable attaches and she swung strong. Poured fuel down the carb and a light fart or two but nothing.
Tested the spark and it was weak (I had not even changed out the points, rotor or cap at this time). Changed out all to NOS OEM stuff, set the points and she fired off like the champ it is.
Rigged up a fuel line, found the factory filter clogged as expected, filled up the float bowl through the filter plug and she not only starts at the swing of the key but idles happily (and loudly without an exhaust).
The big window SD does not even leak, the float level is spot on and I am happy as a pig in s$!t with the running motor.
This is how she looks at this time -
Tomorrow I will cobble together the cooling system again to circulate and clean out the old, brown, rusty Australian water from the system (and see how many leaks the radiator has).
Tried another battery and then the two joined with jumpers but no luck. Went and bought the strongest (in CCA terms) battery for the size (an AGM, since it needs a battery in any way) and still she was slow.
Swopped out the starter cable for a new Toyota one out of my V8 diesel 200 VX-R following a dual battery conversion (this cable is perfect for a 40 FYI) and while doing so I noticed that the bond strap between the frame and starter was loose (I had taken out the splash shield). My bad, cost a fair bit this oversight.
Anyway, cleaned the frame where the earth cable attaches and she swung strong. Poured fuel down the carb and a light fart or two but nothing.
Tested the spark and it was weak (I had not even changed out the points, rotor or cap at this time). Changed out all to NOS OEM stuff, set the points and she fired off like the champ it is.
Rigged up a fuel line, found the factory filter clogged as expected, filled up the float bowl through the filter plug and she not only starts at the swing of the key but idles happily (and loudly without an exhaust).
The big window SD does not even leak, the float level is spot on and I am happy as a pig in s$!t with the running motor.
This is how she looks at this time -
Tomorrow I will cobble together the cooling system again to circulate and clean out the old, brown, rusty Australian water from the system (and see how many leaks the radiator has).
Be careful with that Vader light. It's gold.
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- #28
Thanks, will do. At this point I am barely touching it, it's not coming on with the switch but the bulb looks black as if it may have burnt (no biggie). Have not traced wires yet either or cleaned grounds, could be that too. But yes, the light is a good find
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- #29
Thinking of your post I played with the bulb and vader light. Bulb is OEM and fine. Stuck my finger in the socket to scratch out bugs, dirt etc and on she came -
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- #30
Bigger news for today is that the Cruiser is running from its own tank happily through the cleaned up horridly dirty glass bowl with new OEM filter element.
Even bigger news is that shockingly, the radiator has not leaked yet. Oil and temperature senders and gauges all still work also, which is great.
Biggest news though is that after we rebuilt both master cylinders quickly with used good cores I had lying about (am waiting on new OEM ones) and a new clutch slave from Cruiser Outfitters, the Cruiser drove under its own power for the first time in many decades a few yards forward and backwards without any untoward noises.
Brakes seemed to want to work when we started bleeding but a rusty brake line on the rear axle blew out. Having new lines made to collect tomorrow morning (we fortunately also use the metric system, Toyota fittings are dead easy to find and I have a good hydraulics company two blocks away, so easier to have them make it instead of me having to do so with more basic tools.
Even bigger news is that shockingly, the radiator has not leaked yet. Oil and temperature senders and gauges all still work also, which is great.
Biggest news though is that after we rebuilt both master cylinders quickly with used good cores I had lying about (am waiting on new OEM ones) and a new clutch slave from Cruiser Outfitters, the Cruiser drove under its own power for the first time in many decades a few yards forward and backwards without any untoward noises.
Brakes seemed to want to work when we started bleeding but a rusty brake line on the rear axle blew out. Having new lines made to collect tomorrow morning (we fortunately also use the metric system, Toyota fittings are dead easy to find and I have a good hydraulics company two blocks away, so easier to have them make it instead of me having to do so with more basic tools.
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- #31
Pic of the oil pressure, ammeter and temp gauge working well (fuel gauge is unhooked)
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- #32
Quick update again. Made time to fit the new brake lines, bled the brakes and it actually stops. Put everything together in the engine bay, charging system works well and I drove it around our building, even managing to change to second gear. Brakes are dragging a bit but this is expected given how long it stood.
Cooling system seems to work (I had to make a later 2F water pump work, the old one's bearing is beyond toast and unfortunately the housing cracked just as we finished pressing out the water pump bearing. Radiator still refuses to leak, so it must be pretty well sludged up.
Pic of the motor running after I drove it and the headlights working -
I have dark video also which shows how Smoothly the motor is running but doubt I can upload it. Goes to show how well these things were built. Not two weeks ago three pistons were somewhat rusted stuck.
Cooling system seems to work (I had to make a later 2F water pump work, the old one's bearing is beyond toast and unfortunately the housing cracked just as we finished pressing out the water pump bearing. Radiator still refuses to leak, so it must be pretty well sludged up.
Pic of the motor running after I drove it and the headlights working -
I have dark video also which shows how Smoothly the motor is running but doubt I can upload it. Goes to show how well these things were built. Not two weeks ago three pistons were somewhat rusted stuck.
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- #34
Over the weekend I focused on getting the OEM twin horns going again. Every component involved (horns, relay and button) was stubborn from standing all the time.
Directly powering the first horn did not work so I started taking it apart. I did not find any literature on the process so held thumbs.
Light to heavy oxidation and corrosion everywhere meant ground was an issue. Interestingly, it seems that a resistor is what differentiates the high and low horns' sound. I did not find anything else different between the two.
After a lot of cleaning and polishing surfaces (and stealing my wife's nail file to sand the points) the first horn came to life and bellowed its song. Sweet music to (only) my ears.
The second horn only needed the points filed and the grounding points cleaned and she sang.
The plastic lens covered relay needed only to have the points filed and the gap closed a bit (I bent it by hand at a guess).
The button was the most stubborn, needing the contact's spring soldered to the plate, all surfaces polished and filed to work again. It was worth it though since now the horn works as it should.
I will take apart the button again to give everything a coat of dielectric grease (OEM grease actually that comes with the headlight kits).
Directly powering the first horn did not work so I started taking it apart. I did not find any literature on the process so held thumbs.
Light to heavy oxidation and corrosion everywhere meant ground was an issue. Interestingly, it seems that a resistor is what differentiates the high and low horns' sound. I did not find anything else different between the two.
After a lot of cleaning and polishing surfaces (and stealing my wife's nail file to sand the points) the first horn came to life and bellowed its song. Sweet music to (only) my ears.
The second horn only needed the points filed and the grounding points cleaned and she sang.
The plastic lens covered relay needed only to have the points filed and the gap closed a bit (I bent it by hand at a guess).
The button was the most stubborn, needing the contact's spring soldered to the plate, all surfaces polished and filed to work again. It was worth it though since now the horn works as it should.
I will take apart the button again to give everything a coat of dielectric grease (OEM grease actually that comes with the headlight kits).
On a related note. I ran an extra ground from the front combination indicator light chassis, to the fender (under the poorly grounded horn relay), to the firewall. I guess that I should look into the horns too. I have no trust for the grounds on the original wiring harness.
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- #36
The OEM grounds, if cleaned up and as long as the factory bond straps/ground straps are all in place, seem to work fine even on a crusty unit such as mine.
That being said, if you want to hide a common for the combination lights I suggest looking at the factory threads in the side of frame to which the shield under the crank pulley and radiator mount. They are very close to the combination light and it is a less obvious. I have had issues with regulators on grounds to the firewall on my later models.
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- #37
Today some things came from my late night shopping sprees. Firstly, correct hub caps -
Another box had a bunch of odds and sods from SOR. While they do have a reputation in terms of pricing, handling and shipping fees, I must give them kudos on the (very lightly, as in probably 5 minutes) used early upper thermostat housing I got. A NOS unit would not be much nicer I think -
After a quick clean of the sealing surface I had to plop it on (I like the OEM rubber gasket I got in the older kit). My previous makeshift hose no longer worked but a new OEM hose and clamps meant for the later housing worked fine. Put a new OEM chained radiator cap on also to pressure test the system, effectively ruining the weathered look it had -
Also swopped the AGM battery for a new OEM Toyota battery from a 200 I had lying around. Think it looks more vintage and suits the Cruiser better.
Another box had a bunch of odds and sods from SOR. While they do have a reputation in terms of pricing, handling and shipping fees, I must give them kudos on the (very lightly, as in probably 5 minutes) used early upper thermostat housing I got. A NOS unit would not be much nicer I think -
After a quick clean of the sealing surface I had to plop it on (I like the OEM rubber gasket I got in the older kit). My previous makeshift hose no longer worked but a new OEM hose and clamps meant for the later housing worked fine. Put a new OEM chained radiator cap on also to pressure test the system, effectively ruining the weathered look it had -
Also swopped the AGM battery for a new OEM Toyota battery from a 200 I had lying around. Think it looks more vintage and suits the Cruiser better.
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- #38
I also replaced the transfer output seal with an OEM double lip seal and rebuilt the emergency brake with new OEM shoes, adjuster, springs, hold-down clips and dust seal. It now almost violently grabs hold of the Cruiser when the lever is pulled, three clicks only. Have not had one work this well before, so I am pleased.
Where'd you get the hub caps? eBay?
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- #40
Yes, got them there. Haven't opened the packaging but looks great so I am happy
