Supreme Leader - Starter Replacement Vid (1 Viewer)

[AnyMal]

 

[tbisaacs]

Could be worse. It’s under the intake manifold on the 470s

 

[AnyMal]

“Bad engineering at its finest.”

Damn, a real CCN hot take. This time, it wasn't me!

 

[daneo]

A Word to the wise: being underwater for extended time is what kills these starters. Check your bog hole bottom surface quality, depth, and be prepared for a speedy recovery if there’s any doubt.

1GR is not much better. It has the same under-manifold location and heat shields to deal with.

Guess where these nuggets of info are coming from!

 

[terrapin]

Could be worse. It’s under the intake manifold on the 470s

I had to fix a mouse chewed wire under the intake manifold on my (non VVTi) LX470 so I replaced the starter while I was in there. It wasn't that bad, but I took my time.

I'd like to replace the starter on my LX570 as a preventative measure and have been procrastinating, but now I'm almost afraid to do it. I'm lucky enough to have a rust-free southwest vehicle so I would consider taking the exhaust manifold route.

 

[AnyMal]

I had to fix a mouse chewed wire under the intake manifold on my (non VVTi) LX470 so I replaced the starter while I was in there. It wasn't that bad, but I took my time.

I'd like to replace the starter on my LX570 as a preventative measure and have been procrastinating, but now I'm almost afraid to do it. I'm lucky enough to have a rust-free southwest vehicle so I would consider taking the exhaust manifold route.

Probably would too if i ever waded water despite CCNs advice.
Plus, i would rather work up top any day of the week like he was saying for the older engine.

 

[bloc]

I'm lucky enough to have a rust-free southwest vehicle

I mistakenly thought the same thing. One of the downpipe studs galled then broke off. A machine shop attempted to remove the broken stud and cracked a primary weld on the manifold in the process. So I now have a new manifold too.

Also there was no way on my rig the down pipe was slipping over the studs without loosening the hardware for it further back and dropping the transmission crossmember to gain clearance to move it. Others report not having to do this, not sure why my rig was different, but I’m a fairly competent mechanic and that was my only option.

A more competent shop may have been able to get the stud remains out without nuking the manifold, not sure. All other hardware was perfect. To prevent the same issue in the future I’d put anti-seize on the protruding portion of the stud before removing the nuts.

And even with all of that, I’d still pull the manifold vs mangling the heat shielding and probably leaving one of the starter heat shield bolts off to do it without manifold removal.

You could say I’m stubborn though.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Could be worse. It’s under the intake manifold on the 470s

I watched the starter on my 100 get replaced when it went out and the intake manifold was off relatively quickly. This job looks much harder to me.

That said, I don’t want to do my LC200 or our GX.

 

[TeCKis300]

If this is the worse of Toyota bad engineering, it's not that bad! I changed my starter and was able to manage it without undoing the manifold.

Now a German car - those engineers are EVIL.

 

[AnyMal]

I mistakenly thought the same thing. One of the downpipe studs galled then broke off. A machine shop attempted to remove the broken stud and cracked a primary weld on the manifold in the process. So I now have a new manifold too.

Also there was no way on my rig the down pipe was slipping over the studs without loosening the hardware for it further back and dropping the transmission crossmember to gain clearance to move it. Others report not having to do this, not sure why my rig was different, but I’m a fairly competent mechanic and that was my only option.

A more competent shop may have been able to get the stud remains out without nuking the manifold, not sure. All other hardware was perfect. To prevent the same issue in the future I’d put anti-seize on the protruding portion of the stud before removing the nuts.

And even with all of that, I’d still pull the manifold vs mangling the heat shielding and probably leaving one of the starter heat shield bolts off to do it without manifold removal.

You could say I’m stubborn though.

Something about these frames likes to rust, i have spots too that i can’t really explain.

I doubt anyone would have been more competent and careful than you on your rig though.

I was curious as to milage and reason for your replacement?

 

[AnyMal]

If this is the worse of Toyota bad engineering, it's not that bad! I changed my starter and was able to manage it without undoing the manifold.

Now a German car - those engineers are EVIL.

Prevantative? Milage?
Sorry, i know its in the millions of posts somewhere…

 

[AnyMal]

Prevantative? Milage?
Sorry, i know its in the millions of posts somewhere…

And ive probably already read it

 

[99toylc]

Last Friday around 10am I decided to get 2 of the most hated jobs done on my rust belt 2008 Tundra 4x4 5.7 liter - the starter replacement and the alternator.
Both due to milage at 245k and being original - I was scared the time has come with 2 cases of no start on the first key turn...

With a 52 deg F the work was done on my driveway.

Between rusted bolts on the starter shields, bigger starter to remove (new was a bit smaller) and the location it was a barrel of monkeys' fun!!
I can tell you that I did not raise the motor up, did not remove any parts of exhaust and was able to get this done but of course swore a lot!

To help things out I unbolted the starter and also took the solenoid off of it before removing it all out in pieces.

It took probably about 5 hours counting in drilling and tapping screws completely rusted on the exhaust manifold - would probably cut the time down second time around to 3-3.5 hrs.

The alternator replacement was evil as well due to galling one of the lower long bolts with no room to work on due to frame and a steel lower panel that I installed to protect the radiator and the front part of the bottom of the engine - not wanting to remove because of the Western plow attachment set up that went over the panel bolts etc.

Got the bolt out by heating it up massively (it was orange / white hot) with my induction gun tool and spraying liberal amounts of PB blaster to cool it down. It was very tight there as well and the removal of it thru the side of the frame was hell as well!!

I am a pretty experienced home wrench (for the past 35-40 years), and this is definitely one of the jobs that you remember very well years after.

All in all, a pretty good day as I don't expect to do this again on this truck in the future!

An excellent set of tools and garage resources accumulated over the years and an induction gun are a must for this job especially if they salt the roads in your area.

 

[AnyMal]

Last Friday around 10am I decided to get 2 of the most hated jobs done on my rust belt 2008 Tundra 4x4 5.7 liter - the starter replacement and the alternator.
Both due to milage at 245k and being original - I was scared the time has come with 2 cases of no start on the first key turn...

With a 52 deg F the work was done on my driveway.

Between rusted bolts on the starter shields, bigger starter to remove (new was a bit smaller) and the location it was a barrel of monkeys' fun!!
I can tell you that I did not raise the motor up, did not remove any parts of exhaust and was able to get this done but of course swore a lot!

To help things out I unbolted the starter and also took the solenoid off of it before removing it all out in pieces.

It took probably about 5 hours counting in drilling and tapping screws completely rusted on the exhaust manifold - would probably cut the time down second time around to 3-3.5 hrs.

The alternator replacement was evil as well due to galling one of the lower long bolts with no room to work on due to frame and a steel lower panel that I installed to protect the radiator and the front part of the bottom of the engine - not wanting to remove because of the Western plow attachment set up that went over the panel bolts etc.

Got the bolt out by heating it up massively (it was orange / white hot) with my induction gun tool and spraying liberal amounts of PB blaster to cool it down. It was very tight there as well and the removal of it thru the side of the frame was hell as well!!

I am a pretty experienced home wrench (for the past 35-40 years), and this is definitely one of the jobs that you remember very well years after.

All in all, a pretty good day as I don't expect to do this again on this truck in the future!

An excellent set of tools and garage resources accumulated over the years and an induction gun are a must for this job especially if they salt the roads in your area.

Rust belt 08?
Holy s*** i hope the dopamine hit was strong on completion. Ive been there on a 470, feel it in my bones.

I wont ever do that anymore, if we find ourselves back on east coast, its a lease for me.

 

[99toylc]

LOL... yes I had a lot of practice as I used to have a 99 LC from the rust belt and operated it in a rust belt until 3 years ago!

Speaking of the feeling of accomplishment... ask my wife what I can't stop talking about...

 

[TeCKis300]

Prevantative? Milage?
Sorry, i know its in the millions of posts somewhere…

Failure @109k miles. I used install guides from those ahead of me. But noted a couple details and tips here:

From this thread - Real time STARTER help

Symptoms are a sharp click, and some whirring as the plunger pulls the engagement lever for the starter gear. Mine does sound like these classic symptoms. Interesting that the LX is so insulated, I could only really hear this with the drivers door open.

Surprised it went as quickly as it did. From always starting without ever flinching, to a single missed start after work that I thought was a fluke from me doing things too fast (started on second try), to not a single success in the 20 times I tried in my driveway.

Charged up the batt to full, with charger holding voltage at 14.5V. Still nothing.

Tried to key fob remote start as someone else had success with, and nothing.

Trying to decide if I want to spend my time tackling this. ~$450 in parts, vs ~$1200 at the stealership.

For all those over 100k miles, I'd urge you to proactively address the starter. My plans were to tow my travel trailer to a pretty remote campsite in a couple weeks. Glad she choose to fail in my driveway, than the hassle of a tow for the car AND my travel trailer.

3 hours in at a leisurely pace, and the baby is out. Catalytic midpipe is unbolted and shoved over. Manifold did not have to be taken off or unbolted at all.

Key to the operation in delivering the big starter is to take off the solenoid/relay piggybacking on the starter once it's free from the bell housing. Then it all slides out past the frame easy peasy. I anticipate once I have a new started shipped to me, it'll all go together in another 1 - 1.5 hours.

Could probably get away with just replacing the solenoid/relay but already ordered to whole contraption.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Failure @109k miles. I used install guides from those ahead of me. But noted a couple details and tips here:

Did you use a lift or ramps or just flat land in the driveway? I know the guy in the video says don’t do these proactively, but we tow a camper as well and sometimes we are out in the middle of nowhere.

Might just order the starter and keep it in the LC for when that time comes…..

 

[AnyMal]

Failure @109k miles. I used install guides from those ahead of me. But noted a couple details and tips here:

That no warning signs is spooky.

 

[bloc]

I was curious as to milage and reason for your replacement?

I did the solenoid as PM. No issues starting for me before then or after.

 

[TeCKis300]

Did you use a lift or ramps or just flat land in the driveway? I know the guy in the video says don’t do these proactively, but we tow a camper as well and sometimes we are out in the middle of nowhere.

Might just order the starter and keep it in the LC for when that time comes…..

IIRC, just a jack stand on the passenger front corner to get visibility and access from the wheel well.

A rash of us experienced sudden failure at low 100k miles, like the radiator. It seems to me the later model years may not have the same frequency of starter problems?